Need some help with a 1972 85 hp... ( don't laugh!)

[gunner1]

So my dad has a fifteen foot Glaston boat he bought last year and has yet to run. I was trying to help him today, but it won,t shift into neutral. Now the model # is 85 ESL-72R. So I figured this out to be a 1972 85 hp with the electric shift. Here's my dilema: I read in this forum that this motor is suppossed to have push buttons for shifting. Is this correct? I ask because it has levers. I included a pic below. Also, is it true that the solenoids are hard to find? Thanks alot for any help you can give. This thing seems alot more complicated than my 1988 Force 50 hp that's for sure!

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Need some help with a 1972 85 hp... ( don't laugh!)

the lever moves a switch inside the control, johnson used a different design, but it does the same thing. this applies for both brands.
Hydro Electric Shift)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.

 

[gunner1]

Re: Need some help with a 1972 85 hp... ( don't laugh!)

the lever moves a switch inside the control, johnson used a different design, but it does the same thing. this applies for both brands.
Hydro Electric Shift)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.

Are these on the right side of the powerhead or the left as you're looking at it from the rear of the boat? I had read this post before I posted mine and originally thought the wores were located on the lower unit. Oops!

 

[gunner1]

Re: Need some help with a 1972 85 hp... ( don't laugh!)

Ok, so I finally found those wires and hooked up a jumper and it still didn't go into neutral. I also noticed that the motor won't stay running if he doesn't hold the key to the start posistion. Any other tips anyone can think of? Also, is there anything I need to know before I remove the lower unit? I removed the fill/drain plug ang a grayish brown substance that didn't resemble oil at all oozed out so obviously seals need replaceing and while it's off we might as well change the waterpump and impeller as well.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Need some help with a 1972 85 hp... ( don't laugh!)

"won't stay running if he doesn't hold the key to the start posistion." i would start with a new ignition switch. exactly like that one. it is shot, could be causing your problem.