Need tips for cold starting Force 150

HotTommy

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Mar 15, 2013
Messages
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I have finished restoring my 1993 Force 150 outboard. I've run it at idle for more than an hour in my tank, and it starts on the first try when warm. But I haven't mastered the optimum technique for a cold start. .... The system has a prime circuit rather than a choke, and the prime circuit appears to be working. I can hear the solenoid click when I press the key inward. I've tried various combinations of fast idle and holding the key in for anywhere from just a moment to several seconds, but I haven't found the one that consistently works. The only thing that works consistently is to give it a brief shot of starting fluid along with fast idle on the throttle. In those cases, it fires right up and idles at a very fast speed for several seconds. ... I don't know if the oil-rich 25:1 break-in fuel is harder to ignite than 50:1, but regardless, I need a better starting technique. Can anyone recommend one or a method for finding one that doesn't require multiple days of trial and error testing?
Tommy
 
Last edited:

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,183
You shouldn't need starting fluid on an outboard unless there is a problem.
Do a compression test.
Check the primer circuits or the gas outlet from the primer.
Unhook it and have someone else push the primer and see if it pumps out fuel.
It should pump fuel when unhooked, unhook the lines on all 3 carbs.
It's possible the diaphragm in the primer is not working right?

The proper procedure: Throttle set in fast idle, squeeze ball till firm, turn key and hold in until the motor starts or coughs.
Cough? Then turn key. to try without the choke.
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
First thing that you want to make sure of is that your battery and battery cables are all in good shape. The 1993 150HP motors rely on battery power to generate the ignition spark. Make sure the plugs are clean. Make sure the fuel primer solenoid is cleaned out by taking some carb cleaner and squirt into the solenoid fittings while pushing and releasing the black button on the solenoid itself. Make sure the lines going to and from the fuel primer to the base of the carbs are clear. Here's what I do for a cold start and rarely takes more that one or two attempts.

1. Squeeze the primer bulb 4 or 5 times until it's good and firm.
2. Place the throttle in the neutral fast idle position and move the throttle forward.
3. Crank the motor over while pushing the key in to engage the fuel primer solenoid (choke). Usually takes about 3 or 4 seconds of cranking with the primer solenoid engaged before it'll fire. Once it fires it usually wants to die, so I hit engage the primer solenoid again just for a second and that will keep it running. Might have to hit the primer solenoid once or twice again until the motor warms up at fast idle 1500 - 2000 RPMs.
 

Gerard1970

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 31, 2014
Messages
77
On my force 150 I do not choke it at all when I turn the key....mine will flood quickly. Hope this helps.
 

HotTommy

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Mar 15, 2013
Messages
1,025
Success! .. I added a spare battery with jumper cables, primed the bulb, set the fast idle, turned and pressed the key and it started in less than a second. I released the key and it kept running without any additional priming. If it doesn't start easily next time (with just the regular battery), I'll know its time for a new battery. ... Thanks to all for the advice.
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2007
Messages
4,251
Sounds like a weak battery or corrosion on the battery cables? I have to clean my cable ends at the start of every season even though I take the batteries out before storing the boat over winter.
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
And when you decide to go for a new battery, make sure you get the biggest $$$ can afford. In your case, I recommend the starting/deep cycle combo battery which goes less than $100 at Costco. Or even better since your motor relies on battery power for ignition is to use a two battery system configuration. It maybe an expensive system initially but way cheaper than being towed.
 

jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,183
WE can diagnose a lot of things on here.
We ASSUME the poster has a good battery.
 

HotTommy

Lieutenant Junior Grade
Joined
Mar 15, 2013
Messages
1,025
Given the experience (or lack thereof) by some people who post here including me, it might be a stretch to assume much of anything. For example, it would never occur to me that a battery strong enough to crank the engine and fire it up with starting fluid might not be strong enough to fire it without starting fluid. LIkewise, it would not occur to me to include in my post that the battery is four years old. I count on you experienced guys to do as pnwboat did and mention that as a possible factor.
 

Jiggz

Captain
Joined
Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
It's all inherent with a system like this when troubleshooting, i.e. forum! There will be lags, miscommunications, presumptions but in the end most will be resolved. And no one has to be pissy about it because despite its disadvantages, forum like this are way better than having none at all! Enjoy spring and summer is almost here and have a great boating season.
 
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