New 3.0l almost ready for first start...

[itchyfishnv]

Just purchased a 3.0l for my 87 Stingray. I have everything together, except the wiring. I have a new harness I am going to put in tomorrow. The motor came w/ the distribution already on, I transferred over the motor mount and bell housing, updated 12.75 inch fly wheel and coupler. I guess my question is once I am done, I am going to put oil in it and fire it up. Do I need to do anything other than start it up and adjust the timing? Prime fuel pump? Any tips would be greatly appreciated as I'm anxious to be out on the water soon. Thanks!

 

[Scott06]

I take the plugs out, disconnect the coil wire and run it on the starter until oil pressure builds. You have to break on the cam (think it's flat tapped) by keeping it at 2000 rpms for the first 20 minutes. For the flat tappet cam would reccemend an oil with zinc in it like Rotella or an additive with zinc. Watch temp and change oil after break in. The oil change may be over kill but oils cheap. Usually you want to vary engine speed fir the first 5-7 hours, take it easy no WOT until you have 7 hours, then short bursts of full throttle. After 10 hrs hammer away, definitely change oil then.

 

[alldodge]

Your going to be on a hose so until your in the water don't run the motor above 1000 rpm or so

 

[itchyfishnv]

No Title

So, the black wire coming off the distributor... does that get connected to the white/green wire on the shift interrupt switch? Seems it does, just wondering why they didn't make it the same color. Anyone know where I can purchase the pigtail that has the purple and gray wire that connects to the coil?? It's the only thing I'm missing.

 

[alldodge]

The plug in the right side of the distributer is the timing plug, and is only used to set timing. It can be used if modified to be used for regular running if needed. To set timing the way it is currently shown, the black lead is connect to ground for setting timing.

To place in run mode the lead needs to be connected to one side of the shift interrupter, and the loop wire separated.

 

[itchyfishnv]

Okay, awesome. Thank you for the clarification. So in essence I need a separate "running" pigtail which will connect to the white/green wire on the interrupt switch, correct? If i wanted to modify the "timing" pigtail would I just move the wire over to the first pin, I'm assuming?

 

[alldodge]

Kind of sort of No, to modify the timing pigtail to a running one, is after timing is set, cut the wire that is currently looped. Then remove the black wire from ground and connect to one side of the shift interrupter switch.

If you ever need to recheck timing, connect the loop wire together, and remove the wire from the shift interrupter and connect to ground

 

[itchyfishnv]

No Title

I found a few pictures that show the white wire connected to the shift interrupt. Also the black would go to +12v during timing... you sure its gets grounded?

 

[alldodge]

I found a few pictures that show the white wire connected to the shift interrupt. Also the black would go to +12v during timing... you sure its gets grounded?

I said, The black wire connects to the shift interrupter, and the shift interrupter is connected to 12V via the key.

Here is the installation manual and note page 8 para 22

http://www.atpengines.com/documents/Delco_Voyager_Installation_Guide.pdf

 

[itchyfishnv]

Got it. Sorry misread the above. So in running mode the black wire is attached to the distributor to shift interrupt lead (white/green) (figure 1, index # 11 p/n 10486135).

 

[fishrdan]

Did you align the engine?

Your going to be on a hose so until your in the water don't run the motor above 1000 rpm or so

He needs to break in the cam, which is 15-20 minutes at 1500-2000RPM, immediately, at first start-up. Of course, make sure there is plenty of water flow going to the engine, spigot turned on high enough to where a bit of water is pushing past the muffs.

 

[alldodge]

I understand the flat tappet break in procedure, but there is not enough water being supplied by a hose. So if your going to run on muffs, Suggest start, set timing, then shut it off until you can get it in the water. Or remove the drive an connect the hose directly to the thermostat housing

 

[itchyfishnv]

I am planning on running it on the crate before I drop it into the boat... I'll connect the hose directly to the t-stat housing.

 

[itchyfishnv]

So, can I run the Rotella T4 15w40? It says its for diesel engines, but I've read people saying it can't be used with gas motors- others say there is no difference with the exception of the amount of zinc additive and can be used with gas motors. experiences?

 

[alldodge]

Yes 15w40 rotella is fine for break in and for reg running

 

[fishrdan]

So, can I run the Rotella T4 15w40?

That's what I run in my 140HP (3.0L) Mercruiser, works well as it has more zinc than automotive oil. Mercruiser's spec'ed oil is 20W40, so the Rotella is very close.

After you get done with cam break-in, replace the oil filter and top off the oil. Personally, I'd also change the oil/filter at 1-2 hours of run time, and again at 10 hours.

 

[itchyfishnv]

Thanks everyone, good to know. So, the only difference between gas/diesel oil is the zinc additive?

I was going to change the oil about half way through the 10 hour break-in period, but maybe I should do it sooner.

 

[itchyfishnv]

I have the oil pump primed and ready to be dropped back into the boat. However, I think I may have messed up when I took the distributor out. I did not take note where the rotor was pointing before I took it out. The only way I could get it to fall back in place was if it was pointing to plug #1 on the distributor. I might as well just pull it again and set cyl #1 to TDC on the compression stroke and set it again. My question is, when I bring the motor to TDC on cyl #1 should the timing mark be at 1 degree after top dead center, since that's the timing for this motor? From what I read, I would bring the motor to TDC on cyl #1 @ 1 degree ATDC (or at the zero mark??) drop the distributor in with the rotor pointing at cyl #1 in relation to the distributor and that's it?

 

[fishrdan]

Modern automotive oils have done away with zinc, not needed for roller cam engines and ruins catalytic converters. Diesel oils still have zinc, but it's percentage is being reduced (from what I understand).

The engine should be at 0* TDC, but +1* or -1* of TDC on cyl #1's compression stroke isn't going to make a huge difference stabbing the distributor, since you'll need to time the engine with a timing light anyway. You may need to turn the oil pump drive, so the distributor will drop all the way down.

 

[alldodge]

Being a 1987 your timing is set at 6 BTDC.
It helps if the motor is at TDC but not really necessary if you know which cylinder is on the compression stroke. That said, put your thumb over the number one cylinder and crank the motor over. When your thumb pops off, drop the distributor in. Rotate the oil pump to match the distributor. It should fire up at this point with a slight movements.

The 6 BTDC is good so long as engine provider does not specify something else