New and in need of some advice: 40HP Johnson Electramatic

[jimmbo]

Regarding your gear case, make sure to use the correct oil in it. Type C was speced, but BRP sells it labeled Precision Blend. Other brands will still call it Type C. Other gear oils will not allow the shift mechanism to function correctly.

 

[dmwelch]

Good to know,

Also just just removed the flywheel, and was inspecting the coils etc and it appeared to me at least in very good condition? Take a look at the pictures and let me know.

One thing I forgot to mention about testing the electric shift, It appears that the wires coming up are not original almost like insulated electrical cord which doesn't look original, I'm a little worried about that and want to make sure I'm not out on the water and they come undone because of a bad connection, is there an easy way to check those were they connect to the clutches?

Also if someone could take a look at the other photo and tell me if that looks like my temp switch? It doesn't appear to be in the right spot, but I'm probably wrong

 

[F_R]

Rotted/ burned up shift cable going down to the lower unit is becoming common with the old age of those motors. It is no longer available and $$$$ if you do find one. That obviously is why somebody patched it. If bare or poorly insulated wires are exposed to water, they will sooner or later corrode in two, due to electrolysis. If you do find a proper cable, the lower unit has to come apart to change it. And be sure to install the braided heat shield sleeve to protect it from heat.

Yes, that is the temperature sensing switch.

 

[dmwelch]

Well I started taking the carb of to clean etc and found that I have cork float, everything seems to be in good order with it (no break down etc) should I keep using cork or get a plastic one? If so are there any suggestions?

Thanks

 

[lindy46]

Coils have been replaced, and everything looks good under the flywheel. CLEAN the points with a point file or fine emery cloth. Then run a piece of business card stock soaked in acetone to clean any residue off the points. Then set them to .020" when the rub block is at the high point on the cam. If you have the carb apart, I'd install a new float and carb kit for peace of mind. Clean thoroughly and don't forget the idle circuit under the welch plug on top of the carb. The new kit will have a replacement welch plug.

 

[dmwelch]

Ok another question guys, it appears my engine had a generator on it, are there any cheaper alternative or retrofits for a generator?

 

[racerone]

At this stage I think you should concentrate on the wiring.------Get the motor running and try it out on the lake.-------If all is well then look for the generator.-------The shift system draws a constant 1-1/2 amps when in gear.------You must have that generator in working order.

 

[dmwelch]

You must have that generator in working order.

So do I need the generator to run the electric shift? Or if I'm just running on my battery it'll just need to be charged regularly?

 

[dmwelch]

Another question, I replacing the switch for my electric choke and see that my instrument panel says push and hold, would I need a toggle switch or a momentary switch to make that function properly?

 

[dmwelch]

Typical stuff there.----That one bolt is plugging air intake for hot air choke, novice mistake..---That long tube feeds hot air to the bimettalic spring on the carburetor.---Choke also has an electric solenoid.-------You will need the generator for longer trips.------At this time you should remove the bypass covers to inspect pistons and rings before spending a single $ on this mess.------They were excellent motors but not yours at this time.---The carburetor also has been changed and does not have the fixed high speed jet.-----Someone appeared to be chasing a problem with the motor and then parked it.-------Coils under the flywheel are likely cracked too.

Sorry to jump back so far but I was wanted to loop back to the bolt being put in the hot choke hole, should I remove that? Once I do is there any parts that need to be replaced there or is it just that a hole nothing fancy?

Thanks

 

[jimmbo]

It is just an air bleed(hole), I am curious as to why someone would block it. The pipe going from the top of the heat exchanger to the choke housing, it's not pinched or crushed is it?

Running without the generator has its risks. As you are aware that engine does't need the battery to run. However once the voltage drops enough, it will not stay in gear upon acceleration, then it will not even shift. Not a happy day when it happens and you are not near shore. I admit you could, with a good size deep cycle battery, get several hours of boating on a charge, but....

 

[racerone]

It is abundantly clear to me that a novice was chasing a problem with the motor.----Hoped motor would run better with a different carburetor.----Plugged the air intake for the heat exchanger because they had no clue.-----That is the way I see it.--Other opinions will vary.

 

[dmwelch]

It is just an air bleed(hole), I am curious as to why someone would block it. The pipe going from the top of the heat exchanger to the choke housing, it's not pinched or crushed is it?

Running without the generator has its risks. As you are aware that engine does't need the battery to run. However once the voltage drops enough, it will not stay in gear upon acceleration, then it will not even shift. Not a happy day when it happens and you are not near shore. I admit you could, with a good size deep cycle battery, get several hours of boating on a charge, but....

Nope that pipe is clear, I'm going to take it out and see what happens, as for the generator I will look into getting one once I find out if this engine runs

 

[jimmbo]

My dad had a 1963 40hp Electramatic from 1972 - 75. Learned to waterski behind that motor, even learned deep water Slalom starts behind it. Had the flywheel come loose in 74. HOT lamp started coming on in 74, even though the water pump and thermostat were working fine. Never did figure it out. Good motor