Re: New bearings and seals in upper, shimming thoughts
When you replace the bearing pack there are 12 or 13 pieces, depending on which setup, to be reinstalled. On later drives the parts are placed over the shaft and very gently torqued till they make 6 to 10 inch lbs of rolling torque. When you do your shims you are taking all those softly pressed bits and placing the drive gear within thousandths of an inch of it's exact spot.
Some of the earlier drives use a different method, but your drive serial number sounds later like mine. If you find a small spacer inside the one between the bearing cups the torque is 75 foot lbs stationary. A lot different!
Do it wrong and you mess up the whole drive.
If you have done lots of bevel gears you might be able do it with careful measurement. Problem is, when the cap is off the drive you don't have a reference for the driven gear since the drive cap locates it's top bearing.
Just get a shimming tool, they are online at Mercstuff for $47.95. I'd sell you mine but I plan to use it again.
Oh, and the best reason of all is, I can tell you that my drive needed different shims. When I changed the input shaft, I reused my bearings and only changed my shaft, o-rings and seal. I had to remove shims when I reassembled it.
So either measure it off, take a chance or get the tool.
Chris does this for a living, he knows what he is doing. Guy saves me money and aggravation all the time.