New boat project, wood repair

[jjack010]

Here is a picture of the flotation chamber, stern, starboard side. I've gotten the foam and old wood out and ground most of the fiberglass down. There is a groove about 1/4 inch where the original box was. Should I fill it in and build a new box? If so what do I use to fill the groove in? Or do I build the new flotation chamber into the existing groove? Any other advice is appreciated!

 

[jjack010]

Anyone tried this product?http://m.homedepot.com/p/Amazing-Go...4&ci_sku=203279524&ci_gpa=pla&ci_src=17588969 Reviews?

 

[Woodonglass]

The Tin boat guys use it all the time. Not sure what you would use it for.

 

[jjack010]

I tested the bilge pump while I have access to it. It's running , but not pumping. I'm going to replace it so I can be confident it's going to work while I'm on the water. Running new wiring while I'm at it.

 

[jjack010]

Are the automatic pumps worth the extra money?

 

[jjack010]

I found a marine raider 800 locally, not automatic. I don't mind flipping a toggle switch.

 

[jbcurt00]

Anyone tried this product?http://m.homedepot.com/p/Amazing-Go...4&ci_sku=203279524&ci_gpa=pla&ci_src=17588969 Reviews?

The Tin boat guys use it all the time. Not sure what you would use it for.

I'm also interested to know where you want to apply it.

Automatic bilge pumps are nice to have if you don't have easy access to SEE water below decks so you'll know to turn it on by switch, or plan to leave your boat in the water while you're not there. HAVE to leave the battery on AND hope the pump doesn't drain your battery. But a dead battery is much better then a boat that fills w/ rain water and sinks. Depending on where you slip or dock the boat, shore power may be an option too.

Like many things, the less complicated manual on/off pumps work just fine.

 

[jjack010]

I was considering using the coat it as a top coat on the deck. I'm still undecided. I can't find it locally so that's probably out. I will not go back to carpet. Considering sealing with spar urethane, then painting with rustoleum white professional grade and adding texture. Already have some spar. Just replaced the bilge pump and wiring. I'm going to go through all the wiring today since I found some shady connections. Then I'll have that behind me and I can move on with the wood.

 

[jjack010]

Went ahead and pulled the trigger on the marine raider 800 turbo, non automatic.

 

[jbcurt00]

You are 'sealing' the plywood deck on your fiberglass boat w/ spar varnish or Rustoleum? After you usr poly resin & fiberglass, correct? Mo painting/sparing the raw plywood,

 

[Woodonglass]

Yeah, I'm getting a bit confused too. The Proper way to seal a Fiberglass boat deck is the coat the bottom section with resin and then apply one layer of CSM. Then do the same on the top except apply 2 layers of CSM and then you can Paint it. If You only want to tab it to the hull side land then polyurethane it and paint it, I'm afraid it won't last very long. You could thoroughly soak it in some wood sealer and then paint it after tabbing it and then paint it and it would last a lot longer but decks get a lot of water and abuse and IMHO it's a lot better to Glass them. But Like I always say it's your boat and you're free to do with it as you see fit. This link will give you some good info...Fabricating Decks, Stringers, and Transoms

 

[jjack010]

My plan was to seal the deck with the spar urethane, then paint. The flotation chamber was going to get glassed since it's at the stern and close to the bilge. I have the foam already. However, if enclosing the deck in fiberglass , then painting is the better route I will do that. I figured the deck will see less water, but I've been wrong before.

 

[jjack010]

I will check out the link you have provided.

 

[jjack010]

I've heard the terms pb, pl,CSM enough and thought its time to learn what they mean. I understand the fiberglass lingo a bit better now! Haha

 

[jbcurt00]

PB: Stands for Peanut Butter, a generic term referring to a filler paste made using various fillers to get the consistency needed for a specific application, most often the 'thickness' of actual peanut butter. Hairy PB is made w/ 1/4" milled fibers and is for structural work, like installing transoms and stringers in a fiberglass boat.

PL: PL Premium is a 'type' of liquid nail that is polyuethane based

CSM: Chopped Strand Mat, fiberglass. Available in various weights, 1.5oz is typical for fiberglass boats, and is used in combination w/ 1708 fiberglass to rebuild a glass boat. Ideally, it's designed to work w/ polyester resin, but some is compatible w/ epoxy too. To get a better bond between layers of glass or to other previous layers (or the original glass hull) CSM is often used as a barrier layer. As mat, it takes a good bit of resin to be fully wetted out, and by being resin rich, it keeps the substrait and 1708 from wicking resin away from the layup and creating a weak bond. To add a little extra bulk or strength, some use CSM w/ epoxy on the plywood on their aluminum boat builds.

 

[jjack010]

Awesome!

 

[tpenfield]

There have been some challenges using PL adhesive for stringer bonding/buffering and then using resin over it. Then, it can bubble and delaminate if not fully cured. So, lot of folks have preferred to use "PB" (peanut butter) which is slag for a thickened resin paste.

Also, CSM = Chopped Strand Mat . . .

 

[jjack010]

Found CSM and kitty hair locally. WIN!

 

[jjack010]

Waiting on a common bus bar to arrive so I can move forward on the wiring. Rain in the forecast so I ran out and bought a decent cover. I definitely don't want to reverse any work that has been done up to this point.

 

[Woodonglass]

What Weight/Quantity is the CSM, What Brand is the "Kitty Hair"