Re: "New" Led Submersible Boat Trailer Lights won't work
OK it should be stated that running a ground the entire length of the trailer is an opinion (one that I share by the way) but it is not the standard(I wish it was) also the use of heat shrink with heat activated glue at all wire splices is preferable as well, if you take these precautions you should have several years of trouble free trailering however trailers take a beating, think about it you dip the trailer into water while running electricity not exactly something your mom would be proud of is it! Meanwhile the water is attacking the steel and corroding anything that it can, I have said it before and I will say it again, any person can become a pretty good automotive/boat electrician by just trying to keep the trailer wiring working properly! Its just one of those things that demands fairly consistent maintenance not unlike your boat so you may as well get educated or plan on spending some money. Thing is its not overly difficult and there is nothing more challenging in the automotive world then electrical issues, but I like challenges so ironically that's what I do.
Also a test light as suggested above is an excellent way for the amateur electrician to figure out electrical issues once there is a problem, but what it can't do is find a problem before it becomes a problem, for that you have to have a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) checking continuity in a wire that is corroding and making the wire resistive can only be found via DVM, ever wonder why this brake light is brighter then the other? Grounds can be tested and verified as can power, these days DVM's cost little more then a decent test light anyway, I have both but I use the DVM much more but I have to for work anyway.
In Electrical troubleshooting you cannot overlook the simplest issues, and troubleshooting should nearly always start at the vehicle battery with a test of the battery to verify battery voltage, note the voltage seen 13.5VDC(just as an example), then go to the trailer connection and see 11.3VDC, you have an issue, in most modern cars grounding is the most common problem so that's where I would check first. If you don't have a base battery voltage value how do you know that your system in its entirety is working properly, too many times I see friends and family checking the trailer connection with a DVM and they have no idea other then "Battery voltage" at that connection so I ask well how much voltage are you expecting? I get the look like WTF? this is your job! so I explain the process but it always starts with specifically how many volts the battery is supplying, any variation +-1VDC of that number can indicate an issue upstream of where you are checking.
I also check my grounds from the furthest point from the battery TO THE BATTERY NEGATIVE POST not where the battery jumper ties into the chassis, I challenge everyone on this forum to do the same, do it on your brand new car I guarantee there are going to be 50% of the replies surprised to find 1-5ohms resistance on the factory grounds on a new car, now add a resistive trailer coupling and poor/corroded grounding at the trailer lights and were talking 15 to 25 ohms resistance, that's plenty to dim trailer lights!!
Ok I'm off my soap box sorry if I talked to much
