New owner: 1972 65hp evinrude

[EM2]

I bought this boat about a week ago. Price was right though, only $450. The only bad thing was that the outboard was not installed, and it was in pieces. I, not knowing anything about boats, was a little nervous about taking on this task, but I'm an auto mechanic, so this shouldn't be that big of a deal, right?

Well, not so much. The guy swears the engine ran before, but I can't get any spark. No wonder, because the wiring harness has no labels, and there is no ignition switch. I went looking for a repair manual, but all I can find are the crappy Seloc or Clymer's manuals.

So I went ahead and paid the $7 for one of those on cd, downloaded the manual and it didn't even apply to my engine. Lucky me.



Anyways, I figure there's a reason why I'm not getting spark. I don't think the power pack is getting power. The only wires I could figure out in the harness are the +12v wire and the starter signal wire.

So far, I've had to rebuild the starter, and replace the starter solenoid. It cranks now, and DEFINITELY gets fuel. I cleaned the carburetors out, but they already looked good. It's just not getting spark.

#6 circled in red is where I *believe* I'm supposed to have power when the ignition is on. I already KNOW where the green, pink, and black circles are supposed to go, and the vacant one is a gimme. The other ones I think I've figured out where they go too, so that only leaves the black/yellow, which goes straight into the harness leading towards the ignition switch.


Hell, I just need a good wiring diagram for the ignition switch. That's my biggest problem. I've already figured out the lower unit solenoid wiring, I searched it on this forum.

And one more: how much type c oil goes in the lower unit?

Thanks for the help in advance. This is a great forum. I've already learned so much just by browsing and searching.

 

[EM2]

Re: New owner: 1972 65hp evinrude

So maybe that was a little confusing, seeing as I have no replies.

Does anyone happen to have a wiring diagram, or at least a good picture of the ignition switch for this particular model? So far, there are about 10 wires hanging from the harness, and I know where 3 of them go!

 

[F_R]

Re: New owner: 1972 65hp evinrude

So maybe that was a little confusing, seeing as I have no replies.

Does anyone happen to have a wiring diagram, or at least a good picture of the ignition switch for this particular model? So far, there are about 10 wires hanging from the harness, and I know where 3 of them go!

The power pack is not fed by the ignition switch at all. It doesn't even run off of the 12V battery.

Grounding #6 kills the spark, stopping the engine. That is the only connection to the ignition switch and requires a special switch.

The "juice" for powering the power pack is generated by the stator and goes to the power pack on the brown wires going to #4 and 5

 

[Daviet]

Re: New owner: 1972 65hp evinrude

Get a factory manual, Google Ken Cook, he supplies factory manuals. A factory manual will be your best friend, it will ansewer your questions.

 

[EM2]

Re: New owner: 1972 65hp evinrude

So I'm assuming that since the stator supplies the power to the power pack, it's going to be an alternating current, right? I checked voltage at the power pack today (finally got around to it) and while cranking it showed a whopping 105volts at terminals 4&5! 105 volts!!!!!

Is that right?

So assuming this is correct, then I have a bad power pack, because I'm not getting any pulse at any of the coils, and I have power going to the module.... but wait. I just thought of this! How do I test for the SIGNAL going to the power pack?!

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: New owner: 1972 65hp evinrude

The ignition system on your engine consists of a 300VAC stator (alternator), a timer base, a powerpack, three ignition coils and the spark plug wires/plugs.

The first three wires on the left side of the powerpack (1, 2, 3, orange) feed the ignition coils. The brown (4) and brown/orange (5) wires come from the stator and the black/yellow wire (6) is the ground that F R mentioned. The white/black wires at positions 8, 9 & 10 (7 is unused) on the right side of the powerpack, are leads from the timer base. More specifically, they are leads from the sensor coils in the timer base. The black/white wire at position 11 is the timer base common lead. The black wire at position 12 is a ground.

A complete lack of ignition is usually the result of a bad stator, a bad power pack or a bad key switch. Since the key switch test is easy, start there.

Pull all three spark plugs wires and disconnect the black/yellow wire at the powerpack. Using a needle point spark checker, test for ignition on all three leads. The gap on the checker should be 7/8ths of an inch. Crank the engine via the key switch.

According to the service manual, no spark on one or more cylinders/coils indicates a bad powerpack, but I like to check the sensor coils before I accept that suggestion. If you get spark on all three, you have a problem in the black/yellow circuit and most commonly, its the key switch.

If you do get spark on one or two cylinders, I suggest doing an ohms test on the timer base, because the sensor coils are what triggers the individual circuits in the powerpack, at the appropropriate time. The test is as follows:

Disconnect sensor coil leads 8, 9, 10 & 11. Set your meter on LO ohms scale and test from the sensor coil leads (white/black), one at a time, to the common lead (black/white). You should get a reading of 8.5 ohms, ? 1 ohm. Next switch the meter to HI scale and test the sensor leads, again one at a time, to ground. You should get an infinity reading. If you get zero ohms, you have a short. The sensor coils can not be serviced individually, so you will have to replace the entire timer base, if you have a problem.

You can also test the charge coils in the stator by disconnecting its leads (brown & brown/orange, 4 & 5) from the powerpack. Test between them and look for 900 ohms, ? 30 ohms.

If you have to replace parts, I suggest either Sierra parts or CDI parts. Both are popular aftermarket suppliers and are much less expensive than OEM parts. You can get them here, or at other on-line sources.

BTW, you have a rectifier in your motor also. It converts the VAC to 12VDC separately and supplies the motor's charge system. The ignition system and charge system in this motor are independant of one another.

There is also a relatively small brown ball on the starboard side of the powerhead, in the vicininty of the terminal block, that many refer to as "monkey nutz." This is the "shift diode & lead assembly." It is part of the motor's hydroelectric shift system. I'll explain its function later, after we get the ignition issue sorted out.

Your gearbox takes "Type C" oil, which is currently sold as "Premium Blend" under the BRP brand. The capacity is 25.3 ounces.


PS: One warning on this motor - the hydroelectric shift system works very well ... when it works. There are a couple of parts that are NLA, however. Once you get the ignition sorted out to the point where you think you know where the problem is, let's talk about the shift system a bit. The one thing you don't want to do with these motors is to pump a bunch of money and time into them, only to find out that you have problems with NLA shift system parts.



???

 

[EM2]

Re: New owner: 1972 65hp evinrude

Well, I've already figured out the shifting part, and I've found out that it does indeed shift into reverse and neutral. 25.3 ounces!?? I was expecting something similar to a transmission, like 3 quarts! No wonder I couldn't get very much in there

I'll try this procedure tomorrow, the way you described it, it makes perfect sense. Thank you for taking the time to write that up!

I hope it jumps up to a 300vac system when running! While cranking with the plugs out, all I can get is 105VAC.

 

[jay_merrill]

Re: New owner: 1972 65hp evinrude

Dealing with gear oil is pretty easy. Just fill from the bottom and keep pumping until it starts coming out the vent plug.

The situation with the shift system, is that the shift switch in the control box is NLA, as is the wiring harness that runs down the mid section. The lower shift solenoid is also NLA. If any of these parts is defective, you can be SOL, so don't spend a bunch of money before you figure out if they work. There are a ton of threads here on the system, do do a search and you can read up on some of the issues.

What the "monkey nutz" do, is to hold the gearbox in neutral when you turn the key off. They are positive diodes that are used in conjunction with negative diodes in the rectifier, in order to supply 12VDC to the shift system. The power source at this time is the still spinning stator, so the motor will stay in neutral until it stops. Without this system, the motor would shift into forward, as soon as the key switch is turned off.


???