new to boating, you folks already helped

[galaxy 215]

Hello. Just purchased a 92 galaxy with 4.3 and Volvo penta. Boat has been sitting for about a year and it needs to have the stern drive removed for typical service. Of course hinge pins are badly stuck(you folks have already given me great advise as how to proceed),needs gimbal bearing also. Then have to find out how the engine is. turns over fine,good compression,clean oil. My plans are to remove the drive,remove the props,change oil in lower unit,replace gimbal bearing,the boot,possibly the u joints in the driveshaft,grease everything,replace water impeller and reinstall. If I have missed stuff please let me know. Thanks for any and all replies. Oh yah 1 more thing. Where are the numbers on the drive so I can start to get parts? Thanks.

 

[captmello]

Re: new to boating, you folks already helped

Welcome.

Typically outdrives of that year do not require removing the entire outdrive, only the upper gear box. Can you post some pics to help ID the outdrive.

 

[bajaunderground]

Re: new to boating, you folks already helped

What models do you have: Engine? Drive? If you give us serial numbers we can direct you in the right direction for part numbers. If it's a Volvo Penta SX Cobra drive, the bay water impeller is an assembly run by belts bolted to a bracket mounted on the motor. Not sure if it's straight VP (non-OMC) where the impeller is...but someone on here will? If it's an SX Cobra, then it's very simple to get to the bellows and gimbal bearing (relatively speaking)?!

Everything you want to do is pretty straight forward and can be tackled by a modest person with average mechanical abilities.

Happy Boatin'

~Brett

 

[bruceb58]

Re: new to boating, you folks already helped

If its a Volvo, the water pump impeller is in the engine compartment usually driven by the crankshaft until the OMC joint venture drives came along where it was belt driven for a few years before going back to the crankshaft.

92 is way too early for the joint venture drive unless someone switched everything at a later date.

 

[galaxy 215]

Re: new to boating, you folks already helped

I found out the drive is a dp-c. I will be wanting to remove the outdrive if only to have new-or unsiezed- pins and also the previous owner kinda already started messing around and all kinda stuff is missing in regards to the pins,bushings,spacers. The engine is a 4.3 chevy with a water pump. So since the engine has a belt driven water pump it has no impeller in the lower unit? Lastly,how do you winterize a non running 4.3? Open up the t stat housing and dump in some antifreeze? This is the first really cold day/night here and I have a space heater on under the boat cover to keep things warm till I find out. Thanks for the replies everyone.

 

[dypcdiver]

Re: new to boating, you folks already helped

Go here Boatinfo - The library, containing manuals, brochures and other technical documents from the last hundred years! to view the manual for your engine. there are drain plugs in the block and manifolds. the manual will indicate where the are, and how to winterize.

 

[captmello]

Re: new to boating, you folks already helped

You can download an owners manual, but you need to know the engine model number...

I'm going to guess you've got one of these two.

432a or 432b, these are both 4.3 ltr motors with 2 barrel carbs
434a or 434b. these are 4.3 ltr motors with 4 barrel carbs.

if you know which carb you have, you can go to this website. In the 'engine type' box enter one of the model numbers I gave you and see what info they offer. there should be an owners manual to download.

Engine database - Engine database : Volvo Penta

 

[galaxy 215]

Re: new to boating, you folks already helped

Super good(and warm) weekend. Got the outdrive off,driveshaft out and rebuilt-u joints from napa 28.00 each- engine is now out and bellhousing off. Man is the driveshaft bearing destroyed.I already found the info on this site for replacement and will have a lot of fun getting the engine aligned when it goes back in. This site is AWESOME. I have learned so much and saved even more $$ then I thought possible. I've looked on the web for quite a while and I can't find anything about the camshaft specs for the 4.3 engines in any horsepower level. Mine is a 4.3 4 barrel carb. Thankfully it does have a rollercam(intake already pulled to look for cracks-none found) so all I need to do is buy a new cam and the associated gaskets. If I can get the cam specs I can buy a much better performing cam by comparison and see what is lacking. Then just shave the heads a bit for some more compression and reinstall. Again a big THANKS to this site and the people on it.

 

[bajaunderground]

Re: new to boating, you folks already helped

Super good(and warm) weekend. Got the outdrive off,driveshaft out and rebuilt-u joints from napa 28.00 each- engine is now out and bellhousing off. Man is the driveshaft bearing destroyed.I already found the info on this site for replacement and will have a lot of fun getting the engine aligned when it goes back in. This site is AWESOME. I have learned so much and saved even more $$ then I thought possible. I've looked on the web for quite a while and I can't find anything about the camshaft specs for the 4.3 engines in any horsepower level. Mine is a 4.3 4 barrel carb. Thankfully it does have a rollercam(intake already pulled to look for cracks-none found) so all I need to do is buy a new cam and the associated gaskets. If I can get the cam specs I can buy a much better performing cam by comparison and see what is lacking. Then just shave the heads a bit for some more compression and reinstall. Again a big THANKS to this site and the people on it.

Be careful with this.... Marine cams have higher lift and more overlap than their non-marine counterparts... Look up reversion in relation too marine freshwater cooling!

 

[Walt T]

Re: new to boating, you folks already helped

Save your money. Changing cam won't make any difference in performance. It's just not enough.

 

[gbeltran]

Re: new to boating, you folks already helped

See below

 

[gbeltran]

Re: new to boating, you folks already helped

Be careful with this.... Marine cams have higher lift and more overlap than their non-marine counterparts... Look up reversion in relation too marine freshwater cooling!

A marine cam should have less overlap. More overlap and you have a greater chance of reversion. Most of the time folks are talking about this though the cams are pretty big. Back the the cam, get a marine specific one, or something designed for a truck pulling a load.

 

[bajaunderground]

Re: new to boating, you folks already helped

A marine cam should have less overlap. More overlap and you have a greater chance of reversion. Most of the time folks are talking about this though the cams are pretty big. Back the the cam, get a marine specific one, or something designed for a truck pulling a load.

I must have misunderstood the difference in high-performance and Marine cams! When I was looking to replace mine the one I was looking at seemed to have more overlap (LSA), maybe it was just the 2 cams I was comparing? Lucky for me, mine was in good shape and didn't need replacing!

 

[gbeltran]

Re: new to boating, you folks already helped

Sounds like you are thinking LSA is overlap. LSA is lobe separation angle, and yes, for marine cams that number is usually larger. Overlap is that period where both intake and exhaust valve are open at the same time. There's more to it but thats it in a nutshell.

 

[bajaunderground]

Re: new to boating, you folks already helped

I misunderstood the explanation previously. Makes sense though. I was thinking (I know, dangerous) that if the valves were overlapped in opening (cylinder to cylinder, not intake to exhaust), it would keep exhaust pressure up and the water at bay? Either way, I was mistaken?!

Thanks for the 101...this is why I love iboats!!!

~Brett

 

[Walt T]

Re: new to boating, you folks already helped

All camshafts have overlap built into them. Overlap is the time in which both intake and exhaust valves are open. At higher rpms usually over 1500 that overlap doesn't matter to a wet exhaust system since the exhaust gasses can't be drawn back into the cylinder, they are simply going out too fast. At idle, however, that overlap can cause inversion if it is too long. A 'lopey' cam can cause exhaust and therefore water to get pulled back into the cylinders. What happens is at idle the piston has been pushed down by the power stroke and the exhaust valve opens. As the piston travels up exhaust gasses are pushed out. As the piston gets close to the top of its travel the intake valve starts opening and some exhaust gets pushed through the intake to be drawn into the intake stream of other cylinders. As the crank and rod rotate through the TDC arc two valves are open and the other cylinders are drawing air wherever they can including that open exhaust valve. Then the piston begins it's downward travel for the intake stroke and starts pulling in it's own air supply from both open valves until the exhaust valve closes. On a high duration camshaft put into an engine designed to use it at high rpm, adjustments are made for a high idle speed so it will 'idle', usually at 1000 rpms and up. For our marine engines, a 1000 rpm idle speed is not feasible since we have to shift our drives at that speed. Docking would be difficult. If we had clutches installed we could idle at 2000 rpms and never worry about inversion since the 'lope' wouldn't be present and the 'scavenging' benefit provided by the high duration cam would keep water at bay. Hey, water at bay... in the bay.. yeah ok very punny. Anyway, the high duration camshaft benefit is at higher rpms. If you are propped for, say, 4800 rpm, you'll still only get 4800 rpms, and your low end grunt will be less. Stay with higher lift and same duration if you must change cams. Be sure you will have enough piston clearance. A voice over the phone from a cam manufacturer is not gods word.