Newbie

[crunch]

First off, let me thank all of the posters here, I was recently given a 1976 Larson 15 ft. Tri-hull with a 1978 Merc. 800 that has been in storage for 4 years and you guys and gals have been a fountain of info to let me safely start it... cudo's to all !!!

I'll tell you how ignorant I was, I didn't even know it was a 2 stroke, I didn't know the fuel/oil ratio... LOL, I didn't even know how to find out what it was. (SR# 4835014)

I've been reading your forum for about a week and have de-carbed it with Seafoam with a gas mix of 25 to 1, but will go to 50 to 1 with a few more gals. run thru, cleaned out the tell tale with weed-eater string, checked spark on the flat plugs (very good ran a compression check (140 to 142 on all 4 cold !!! replaced fuel/water separator and squeeze bulb, most of the fuel lines... yadda, yadda. (when first started, squeezed bulb and fuel shot out of short pipe at bottom of both carbs) runs really rough at idle, smokes like a demon.

I think i'm on the right track, I have a kit for the water pump, have ordered a kit for both carbs, going to change lower end lube at the time I do the water pump.

I've got two questions:

The prop and skag are lightly corroded, can I sand them down by hand and paint them with a good enamel paint?

And, and here is the show stopper:

This boat weighs 950 lbs. The motor, 250? The trailer is badly corroded and needs to be refinished, the hull leaks at the keel (I filled it with water and figured where it leaks coming out, it will leak going in

I've worked in the building industry for 25 years, jacked up and moved buildings that were 10,000 times this weight, but not as delicate. Can anyone send me to a link for a home built lift? I can brute force it and over build but easy is better.

Thanx all,

Salmon rule.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Newbie

the best repair is done from the inside, find the cause. you probably have had wet foam.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Newbie

If you sand the skeg (which is aluminum) use zinc chromate primer or your paint job will not last. Same stuff can be used on your aluminum prop. Prime with Zinc Chromate then your enamal.

Tashsasdaddy is right. Your foam is probably soaked (which should be replaced) and the best repair should start on the inside.

You can slide the boat back .... support with wood and jackstands to spread the load and carefully inch the trailer forward. Once you are almost off the trailer jack and support the front end and remove your trailer. Now you have the trailer freed-up for repairs and paint. (Just like moving a house)

 

[JustMrWill]

Re: Newbie

There are tons of posts on the subject of removing boat from trailer...it is going to depend on your objective. Are you removing boat to work on boat or work on trailer? What do you have available? Big trees, garage, etc.
What you are goign to do also determines what support you will need for the boat:
-Just working on trailer - old tires or a couple landscape timbers
-Working on boat (removing floors/replacing stringer etc) - landscape timbers or home-built supports
-Flipping boat to work on hull - can tempararily support with timbers/supports or make a frame that cradles boat and allows it to be rolled over like the first one pictured here.

Here is what I did...
*remove motor or make sure your supports will not allow lower leg/skeg/prop from touching ground

1. Connect stern eyes to two trees behind boat with rope or cable (one tree would work if it is big enough).
2. Hitch up trailer to truck (don't forget safety chains).
3. Remove ALL tiedown straps and winch cable/strap!!!
4. Drive forward SLOWLY until about 1 foot of the stern is hanging off boat.
5. Place supports under boat. (check position of timbers etc..make sure that boat is getting evenly supported)
6. Pull forward some more...repeat step 5 and 6 until boat is resting on supports and trailer it free.

You can see what I built for supports by clicking the link in my sig.

-JMW