No fuel at the carb

[robinsbd]

I just rebuilt my carb and replaced my hard fuel line.

I'm not getting any gas to the carb after cranking the the starter.

The engine has both a mechanical fuel pump and an electric pump.

I have been cranking with the saftey lanyard detached because i just want fill the carb bowl before trying to actually start the engine.

Is the saftey lanyard preventing the fuel from getting to the carb or should i look elsewher??

 

[Bt Doctur]

2 pumps is highly unusual. a carb can have it bowl filled by simply pouring gas into the bowl area.
a electric pump is wire thru a pressure switch so no fuel without oil pressure first plus I dont think a mech pump can pull thru an electric pump

 

[robinsbd]

My electric pump pulls fuel through the water separator filter and then feeds that tk the mechanical pump.

 

[NHGuy]

Well to get your first prime you can just feed the carb a couple of times. Then if it doesn't prime start checking with the electric pump, the mechanical one, the inlet screen, the anti siphon valve, and the fuel lines. Just be logical, it's usually something easy.

 

[robinsbd]

I wonder why mine has the 2 pumps.

I am going to give the starter a try with the safety lanyard engaged. I'll pull the coil wire instead so it doesnt try to start. I just want the fuel system primed before really trying to start.

 

[robinsbd]

Is it Ok to pull the coil wire and leave it dangle. I dont where i can ground it at?

 

[Bt Doctur]

From the sound of it your a little light on some knowledge . Pressurizing the suction side of a mechanical pump is never a good idea. Rupture the diaphram and all the fuel will just dump down the carb. Use one or the other ,not both.
Disabling the ign can be done by removing the power wire at the + side of the coil or getting a jumper from a electronics store with 2 gator clips and connecting it to the NEGATIVE side of the coil.and ground

 

[NHGuy]

If the drive is off you can let it start for a moment. Or if the drive is on you can run water to it.
If you want to avoid getting water to the block for winter just leave off the first hose inside the boat and let it dump in the bilge for a couple of seconds.
Then you will know it starts.
No other reason I can see to bring the fuel up if you aren't going to run the engine, unless you really need to be sure the fuel system is working.

 

[robinsbd]

Forget the coil question.
What is the best way to get the first prime? Is there any issue just trying to start it like normal a couple times?
When I say normal, I mean with safety lanyard attached and coil hooked up. Basically a normal starting situation.

 

[Bt Doctur]

simply pour gas into the carb bowl thru the carb vent port

 

[robinsbd]

I'm in the water now tied to a dock in a marina. I haven't winterized it yet.
We still have great weather and i'm ready to get her running again before I put it away for the winter.

 

[Bt Doctur]

2 or 3 ozs

 

[robinsbd]

LoL!! Thanks for the pic
I know everything about my carb and I just did a full rebuild myself. First time I have ever worked on a carb.

This is the first time im starting it since the rebuild.

I just want to do the right thing and I'm extremely OCD.

I will take your suggestion and fill the bowl with a funnel throgh the vent.

 

[Bt Doctur]

2 to 3 ozs should sufficiant

 

[robinsbd]

I got it running.

I'm getting plenty of fuel now. Problem is, I'm getting way too much fuel now. It runs rough and producing a lot of black exhaust. Then it stalls out with unburnt fuel vapor coming out the carb top.

The only thing I can think of is maybe the float is getting stuck open. I just rebuilt the carb so it was clean when I put it on the motor.

You guys have any other ideas?

 

[Bt Doctur]

If something worked before you worked on it, and now it dosent then review all of your work to see if you missed something

 

[robinsbd]

I found a slight leak in my new fuel line between the fuel pump and the carb. It is leaking at the compression fitting at the pump end of the line.

Could this cause a flood condition? I wouldn't think so at first, but I'm not sure.

 

[Bt Doctur]

No external leakage should affect the carb. rich and black smoke is excess fuel going into the motor

 

[harleyman1975]

needle and seat are not closing.

 

[robinsbd]

I lowered the float level, and that seemed to resolve the issue.

Is there any bad side effects that I should worry about after lowering the level a bit? I think the engine is running well. I was able to tune the idle air/fuel mix and speed setting reasonably well. It seems to run best with 2 turns out on the idle air/fuel needle. I had tried the initial setting at 1 1/4 turns per the merc manual, and it ran kinda rough until I went to 2 turns. Is 2 turns a common setting for these engines?

I used the dash tach to tune the engine. My multimeter shop tach would not get any readings from the ignition coil, so I gave up on that for now and just used the dash. I tried a timing light with inductive tach, but that didn't work well at all (too much fluctuations). The dash tach seemed to work fine. However, I know the recommendation is to use a vacuum gauge, but I'm not sure where that would attach since my mercarb does not have a vacuum port.