No Spark, feels like I’ve tried everything.

MrHProblems

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This is going to be a relatively long one I believe.

Information:
1996 Bayliner Capri w/ 3.0LX Merc.

I stored the boat for the winter and came back this season to take it out on the lake and BAM, crank no start.

I narrowed it down to no spark, replaced the distributor, rotor, cap, etc(made sure to set the timing, it’s 8° before)
replaced the ignition coil,
bypassed the kill switch temporarily,
unplugged the shift disrupter( connected the 2 wires on the harness to each other),
Check continuity of all the plug wires,
Made my own EST-Coil wire harness because the factory one appeared to be bad,
New spark plugs,
Tach is unplugged from behind the gauge cluster,
All fuses are good.

I also tested to see if I’d get spark directly from the coil, no spark. I have 12 volts entering the coil via the purple wire that is in the same connector as the grey wire, I also have 12 volts leaving the coil through the harness to the distributor, as well as through the plug wires going from the coil to the distributor.

At this point I have no clue what else it could be.
 
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Not really sure what would be the most effective way of doing that? Just checking for continuity between the battery terminal and the ends of each wire going to the coil/distributor?
with power off yes, check continuity and resistance, the ignition wires im pretty sure will have a measurable resistance im not sure what yours would be
 
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its strange that it was working fine last year then the first startup theres no spark. What i would think is that moisture maybe eventually rusted out a terminal so while it says you have 12v from the multimeter, the connection is no good. That or an animal got in during storage and chewed something. Maybe check for corroded terminals?
 
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corroded terminals anywhere on the ignition system like grounds or positives. I had an issue on my 1995 sea ray where the battery wasnt charging i was getting good ( a little high voltage) out of it and spent so much time on the wiring system only to find out one of the connectors was holding on by one strand of the copper wire. I just couldnt see it because of the little rubber piece of the connector was covering it.
 

MrHProblems

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So even though I have 12 volts going to everything in the system you think I should go through and check all the connections and grounds and make sure they are all good?
 
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So even though I have 12 volts going to everything in the system you think I should go through and check all the connections and grounds and make sure they are all good?
just as a test you should get a long wire that can handle the amperage and connect it to the closest ground terminal to the ignition system all the way to the negative on the battery.
 

MrHProblems

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Will dive into this in the morning, lets hope for some better results tomorrow I guess

Thank you! Keep you eye out on here tomorrow plz!
 

Scott06

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Will dive into this in the morning, lets hope for some better results tomorrow I guess

Thank you! Keep you eye out on here tomorrow plz!
I would get a hold of a factory manual for your engine and there should be a troubleshooting guide - probably the pick up coil (inside dist that triggers the spark) or the module is bad.

I'll look and see if I have a copy electronically tonight
 

MrHProblems

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I would get a hold of a factory manual for your engine and there should be a troubleshooting guide - probably the pick up coil (inside dist that triggers the spark) or the module is bad.

I'll look and see if I have a copy electronically tonight
Brand new Distributor from top to bottom, and EST
 

MrHProblems

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Ok still the troubleshooting in factory manual for a 3.0 EST will tell you what isnt working, or prove you have a defective unit
something like this?

 

Scott06

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something like this?

exactly like that

and you are testing for spark off the coil or one of the plug wires?
 
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