No Spark, feels like I’ve tried everything.

[Scott06]

About to retest off the coil again, just went and got an actual spark tester.

grounding the coil wire works , if the coil fires but plugs dont that is a diff issue(s) than if the coil wont fire.

spark gap tester is one of the best trouble shooting tools you can have. Inexpensive and can tell the strength of the spark by how much gap it can jump. So when you get it running well, test the spark gap. When you have issues down the road you have a base line to compare against.

 

[MrHProblems]

grounding the coil wire works , if the coil fires but plugs dont that is a diff issue(s) than if the coil wont fire.

spark gap tester is one of the best trouble shooting tools you can have. Inexpensive and can tell the strength of the spark by how much gap it can jump. So when you get it running well, test the spark gap. When you have issues down the road you have a base line to compare against.

here is some photos, ignore the dirt, its been uncovered for awhile as I've been trying to fix it. (The coil isn't mounted yet btw)

New Coil, New Distributor, New EST-Coil Harness, New Plugs.

No spark at coil or distributor, I have voltage going through from the purple wire all the way into the EST. I also have voltage going through the top post on the coil through the plug wire from the coil to the distributor.

I also have 14 volts(battery is on a charger rn) to the starter and starter solenoid. Every ground appears to have continuity to the battery as well.

The Tachometer is disconnected at the helm, I tried bypassing the shift interrupter by plugging the wires together(didn't help), bypassed the kill switch as well(didn't help).

Followed the manual to the best of my ability, but its a bit confusing imo.

 

[Scott06]

here is some photos, ignore the dirt, its been uncovered for awhile as I've been trying to fix it. (The coil isn't mounted yet btw)

New Coil, New Distributor, New EST-Coil Harness, New Plugs.

No spark at coil or distributor, I have voltage going through from the purple wire all the way into the EST. I also have voltage going through the top post on the coil through the plug wire from the coil to the distributor.

I also have 14 volts(battery is on a charger rn) to the starter and starter solenoid. Every ground appears to have continuity to the battery as well.

The Tachometer is disconnected at the helm, I tried bypassing the shift interrupter by plugging the wires together(didn't help), bypassed the kill switch as well(didn't help).

Followed the manual to the best of my ability, but its a bit confusing imo.

https://marineengines4less.com/content/EST%20Ignition%20Instructions%20-%20ME4L.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOooZQwEi1W7uouEXyz6n6IJZgyV36X7RphghERpUw9PjdbgjUyFc

in these instructions they show the white wires of the timing loop being connected - not 100% sure if they are cut when putting in base mode - might be worth connecting into a loop as shown in wiring diagram and seeing if you get spark? or is that for base only?

 

[MrHProblems]

https://marineengines4less.com/content/EST%20Ignition%20Instructions%20-%20ME4L.pdf?srsltid=AfmBOooZQwEi1W7uouEXyz6n6IJZgyV36X7RphghERpUw9PjdbgjUyFc

in these instructions they show the white wires of the timing loop being connected - not 100% sure if they are cut when putting in base mode - might be worth connecting into a loop as shown in wiring diagram and seeing if you get spark? or is that for base only?

doesn't that say only when timing though?

 

[Scott06]

doesn't that say only when timing though?

not sure that may be why.

As a sanity check is the distributor rotor turning when the engine cranks?

 

[MrHProblems]

Yes it is rotating when the engine cranks

 

[Scott06]

Yes it is rotating when the engine cranks

and the 12v you are measuring at purple wire going to coil is while cranking or at rest when ignition is on?

 

[MrHProblems]

at rest with key in run position

 

[Scott06]

at rest with key in run position

I would check to see if it’s there when cranking

 

[MrHProblems]

Praying this gives you some insight into helping me find a solution.

While cranking the 12-14v drops down to 10v and 5v. Going back and forth on a consistent interval between 10v and 5v. Can take a video if necessary.

 

[cyclops222]

You have loose and corroded big battery cables. Remove and clean the bat5tery posts and inside of the cable clamps on them. Might be so bad that a replacement is needed.

 

[MrHProblems]

You have loose and corroded big battery cables. Remove and clean the bat5tery posts and inside of the cable clamps on them. Might be so bad that a replacement is needed.

Just cleaned every single connection in the ignition system from battery-starter-starter solenoid-coil-distributor

Also replaced the battery terminals with fresh ones and cut the ends off the wires to get a fresh connection.

No luck on getting spark. Why does it feel like its probably something so simple I just cant figure out?

 

[cyclops222]

Post 30 said the battery voltage is collapsing to 10 volts. Is the battery voltage still collapsing to 12 or 10 volts ? Do you know that is probably a worn out starter or starter contactor ? Or simply a run down battery ? You need a real marine mechanic. DIY is not doing the job.

 

[nola mike]

Just cleaned every single connection in the ignition system from battery-starter-starter solenoid-coil-distributor

Also replaced the battery terminals with fresh ones and cut the ends off the wires to get a fresh connection.

No luck on getting spark. Why does it feel like its probably something so simple I just cant figure out?

Ground wires as well?

 

[Scott06]

Just cleaned every single connection in the ignition system from battery-starter-starter solenoid-coil-distributor

Also replaced the battery terminals with fresh ones and cut the ends off the wires to get a fresh connection.

No luck on getting spark. Why does it feel like its probably something so simple I just cant figure out?

10 dropping to 5 volts isn't going to work. Also remember that the 12v goes from engine thru engine harness, into boat harness, up to helm and back. So in addition to the battery cable (do the ground cable too) there are potential voltage loss points in the cannon plug (engine to boat harness connection), key switch (start vs run position), across any helm connections (often daisy chains the run +12v thru the gauges), and back to the engine.

You would have to find your wiring diagram and see where the ignition gets powered via cranking and follow that with a voltmeter.

 

[Scott06]

10 dropping to 5 volts isn't going to work. Also remember that the 12v goes from engine thru engine harness, into boat harness, up to helm and back. So in addition to the battery cable (do the ground cable too) there are potential voltage loss points in the cannon plug (engine to boat harness connection), key switch (start vs run position), across any helm connections (often daisy chains the run +12v thru the gauges), and back to the engine.

You would have to find your wiring diagram and see where the ignition gets powered via cranking and follow that with a voltmeter.

something I didnt think of before previous post -

have the battery load tested at autoparts store just to rule it out as voltage drop source

for testing jumper directly from the battery positive to the purple wire (might have to strip some insulation since there is no terminal on the coil), then crank it over. this would hot wire the ignition and effectively bypass all the circuitry listed above. If you get spark that would confirm its voltage loss in harness, switch etc.

Just note if it does start and run you have to pull the jumper wire off to kill the ignition.

Can also jumper at cannon plug on engine harness-

#6 red/purple is 12 v supply
Jumper from #6 to #5 purple (maintained) for ignition on
momentarily jumper to #7 Yellow/Red from #6 to engage the starter.

I did this test running an engine on the ground with two short pieces of 14 gauge stranded wire twist them together and jamb in #6 12v supply put one end in #5 purple to power ignition, other end just tap in #7 to bump the starter. Pull out #5 to kill ignition. If it runs at cannon plug you know engine harness is good and issue is boat harness/helm.

 

[alldodge]

Test procedures

 

[pae0332]

run a jumper wire from bat + to the electric choke wire(purple) same wire that feeds the coil. you solid cranking sound? not a weak battery right?

 

[MrHProblems]

Replying to multiple people with this message:

1: I did verify all ground connections were good

nola mike​

2: Even if the starter was failing it would supply atleast some spark to be detected right?(no spark at all and motor turns over properly)

cyclops222​

3: I jumped from the battery to the purple wire going into the coil yesterday and that yielded no spark as well. Also it was 12 volts dropping to 10 upon first crank and then at a consistent interval while cranking it was going from 10-5-10-5 as the motor turned over.

Scott06​

pae0332​

4: I will use the above diagram that you sent to test the EST tomorrow when the plug wires also arrive.

pae0332​

Also thank you everyone who has been replying trying to help, please stay tuned tomorrow as I am sure I will have updates for you guys.

 

[Lpgc]

something I didnt think of before previous post -

have the battery load tested at autoparts store just to rule it out as voltage drop source

for testing jumper directly from the battery positive to the purple wire (might have to strip some insulation since there is no terminal on the coil), then crank it over. this would hot wire the ignition and effectively bypass all the circuitry listed above. If you get spark that would confirm its voltage loss in harness, switch etc.

Just note if it does start and run you have to pull the jumper wire off to kill the ignition.

Can also jumper at cannon plug on engine harness-

#6 red/purple is 12 v supply
Jumper from #6 to #5 purple (maintained) for ignition on
momentarily jumper to #7 Yellow/Red from #6 to engage the starter.

I did this test running an engine on the ground with two short pieces of 14 gauge stranded wire twist them together and jamb in #6 12v supply put one end in #5 purple to power ignition, other end just tap in #7 to bump the starter. Pull out #5 to kill ignition. If it runs at cannon plug you know engine harness is good and issue is boat harness/helm.

My boat was only getting 9V to the coil on the purple wire and I was getting interference on the VHF. I found a voltage drop across the dead man switch so bridged the dead man switch. This much improved the low voltage issue, it was then getting >11V at the coil with the engine running but that's still a drop of a few Volts, it also slightly improved the VHF interference. I then found the purple wire was partially corroded in the engine bay around the area where the factory or a previous owner had connected an engine hour meter (hour meter mounted on the engine), I fixed that and was getting only a 1V drop from battery Voltage to the coil (11V with ignition on engine not running, 12 to 13V with engine running).

I knew there was a simple way of improving both the Voltage drop to the coil and the interference... by fitting a relay. In the engine bay I cut the purple wire to the coil, fitted a relay and wired it so the purple wire from the ignition switch activates the relay. The relay switches power directly from the main 12V feed at the engine to the coil, so now there is no voltage drop at the coil, it gets whatever battery Voltage is. This totally fixed the VHF interference. It also prevents the alternator over-charging the battery(s), the alternator Voltage sense wire connects to the purple wire.