no specification for idle timing - ballpark?

tal

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 21, 2003
Messages
214
1985 120hp V4 looper. My manual doesn't state a timing for idle just a WOT timing at 22 degrees. I'm trying to get a ballpark.

I'm trying to idle her down in a make shift tank that submerges the gearcase just an inch or 2 above the cavitation plate. I'm unable to get it to idle less than 1700 or so with my timing at idle around 0*. A local mechanic that lent me the pliers to do my gearcase rebuild said the timing should be around 0* or so at idle. I know these things idle high while not fully pressurized under water but this sounds a little too high. I can screw in my "idle" screw and it retards my timing, but then I'm guessing I'll be back to where I was before with a rough idle that likes to die. It is much smoother around 0* but idling high in my water trough.

I'm unsure what the WOT timing is actually set at and this afternoon I noticed the WOT timing stop was not hitting the mechanism under the flywheel. I shot the base with some WD 40 and it freed up and now hits the WOT stop where it has in the past (going off of wear mark on housing). I thought the engine ran good before but I wasn't even getting WOT advance. I have also been over the linkages several times so I don't know how I missed this one.

My real question is, how do I idle this thing down without affecting the timing? The thing they call an "idle screw" in the manual is the screw in the plastic piece that adjusts the rod connected to the flywheel timing base. Sure it adjusts the idle but also has adverse affects on running quality. The actual "idle stop" can adjust the idle but since the arm is connected to the above piece it still changes my idle. I'm getting a lot closer to this thing running flawlessly, but I need a few pointers.
 

tal

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 21, 2003
Messages
214
Re: no specification for idle timing - ballpark?

Tasha, I'll try that before I take it out to test tomorrow. I have no reason to believe the WOT timing is off, I just wasn't getting it all before due to a sticking base plate. It was hanging up about 3/8" from the stop but now it fully reaches it. I'm assuming the engine will reach higher rpms than it did before, which makes sense with my configuration (16' Skeeter rated for 80hp with a 120 and 21 pitch 14.25" prop). Anyhow, I can tell the WOT advance adjustment is still in it's factory position by how the bolt looks. It has been there for a long time. You are right and I should check it though.

My main issue was idle. So if the WOT timing is all that matters then I just set my idle timing to wherever it's supposed to idle based on RPM spec. Since the manual calls the "spark advance" rod "idle". This is what I've done in the past and it doesn't like it run very well there. It has been suggested that I might have to richen the idle jets to make it idle at intended rpm without coughing.
 

tal

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 21, 2003
Messages
214
Re: no specification for idle timing - ballpark?

Figured I'd update on what I found out here. I did not check the wot timing but I did do a quick test run. With the engine closer to 0* it idles like a dream in gear, right where it should be 750-800rpms. It never dies or coughs at this setting. When I take it out of gear, however, it still idles up too high. 1300+ rpms. My butterflies are not sticking open so I dont' know what is going on here. Turning the idle screw in won't work for me because the engine will idle too low in gear and start coughing and eventually die.

Now that I'm getting full advance the engine really comes out of the hole quicker and is much quieter crusing. It is better all around and all I can do for now is hit the primer to slow down the idle before I put it in gear.
 

Dhadley

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 4, 2001
Messages
16,978
Re: no specification for idle timing - ballpark?

The motor will idle up around 1200 or so out of the water. Don't pay much attention to the actual timing numer at idle, a lot depends on exhaust backpressure.

As for the idle speed adjustment, it's done with the rod to the timer base only. If you've moved the screw in the throttle arm you'll need to do the sync-n-link from scratch. That screw shouldn't have to be moved on a looper.
 
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