Not another Shifter cable Thread?

blitz491

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Thanks I saw that I thought there was something you had that was different?

I think Im older than you LOL
 

Lou C

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are you older than the original Chevrolet small block V8, if so then yes you are, if not then you ain't lol.
 

ab59

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Thats a long time Lou 1917-1919 I believe and I thought I was getting on at 63 and was pushing it . Happy 100 th birthday :laugh:
I hope you know I'm pulling your leg a little .
 

blitz491

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the 1955 265? no I didn't get hatched until 66!! but turned a lot of wrenches on them myself! Sorry even though I have a big ol gas guzzling GMC Truck Im a Ford Guy:eek: so you might as well be speaking greek to me
 

blitz491

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ok Im gonna try to post this resized image this time test.JPG
 

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blitz491

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it worked whats prefersble here on iboats after reading the tutorial and rules about posting it says large(first one) is that too big?
 

ab59

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depends on what you want to show but I usually use the medium myself . Large pictures are great for showing detail though but that kind of stuff is up to the poster . 1917-1919 first chevy v-8 D 288

A B
 

blitz491

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This might be the dumbest reply of the day? since You are are sharing all your expertise and struggles with me, I would not want to disagree and Im NOT so you are right!!! but to defend my honor I think LouC was refering to the specific "small block" ? if so we are both right if not you win :D

The Chevrolet small-block engine is a series of V8 automobile engines used in normal production by the Chevrolet Division of General Motors between 1955 and 2003, using the same basic engine block. Referred to as a "small-block" for its comparative size relative to the physically much larger Chevrolet big-block engines, the family spanned from 262 cu in (4.3 L) to 400 cu in (6.6 L) in displacement

Production of the original small-block began in the fall of 1954 for the 1955 model year with a displacement of 265 cu in (4.3 L), growing incrementally over time to 400 cu in (6.6 L) by 1970. Among the intermediate displacements were the 283 cu in (4.6 L), 327 cu in (5.4 L), and numerous 350 cu in (5.7 L) versions. Introduced as a performance engine in 1967, the 350 went on to be employed in both high- and low-output variants across the entire Chevrolet product line.
 

Lou C

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The 265-283-305-307-327-350-400 small block lol!
 

blitz491

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So my dealer was closed Sunday and I grabbed some gear oil in case I got to that point to use should I return this for Merc stuff or will this work?
 

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Lou C

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These are not super fussy about gear oil but I used the OMC Hi Vis stuff when I first had it and then switched over to the Merc High Performance gear lube since my OMC mechanic suggested using it about 15 years ago. The Merc stuff is more expensive but seems to hold up very well. Now Evinrude has something that's supposed to be even better but harder to find here.
 

blitz491

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Thanks I have to by the dealers any way so I ll just the merc product

I had a change of heart and decided to go ahead and use everything in the kit and change out the Gimble bearing, seal and Bellows instead of just the shift cable!

So I as wondering what is the general consensus on using Gasket sealer on the Bellows? I have been reading different opinions?
 

kpg7121

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Thanks I have to by the dealers any way so I ll just the merc product

I had a change of heart and decided to go ahead and use everything in the kit and change out the Gimble bearing, seal and Bellows instead of just the shift cable!

So I as wondering what is the general consensus on using Gasket sealer on the Bellows? I have been reading different opinions?
I used the Permatex Form A Gasket liquid on both ends of the bellows. Never had an issue with it other then not using gloves when applying it. That stuff doesn't wash off, it wears off. I also used it on the mounting gasket for the drive, both sides.
 

Lou C

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I've used either OMC gasket sealer or Permatex Aviation. When you get the bellows on the gimble housing end, make sure that the rib in the bellows sealing surface, fits into the groove in the gimble bearing mount.
Also, the way I've done it is to disconnect the transom shift cable up at the engine bracket (just pull out the cotter pin, don't change the adjustment at the bellcrank) to allow the pivot housing to move back a bit (without disconnecting the cable at that end), it is in the end easier to pull back the pivot housing than to try to remove the exhaust bellows first and then jam the new drive shaft bellows in above where the exhaust bellows was with the pivot housing in place......screw fitting on bellows clamp should be between 1:00-->2:00 o'clock position....if you do remove the pivot housing, there are 2 fiber washers on each side, that may fall down...keep an eye out for them...I replaced them the last time I did the bellows back in '16...
 

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blitz491

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Mercy!!! This gimble bearing is literally kicking my Butt!!

I have tried my bearing puller with hammer attachment, I hooked my bearing puller to a come along through a chain bolted to a block wall and it moved my boat and had to block all 4 tires! I went to auto zone and rented the blind hole bearing puller and it wont come out? Im about to try and use a sledge hammer and screw driver to spin the gimble eye and then use my dremmel to cut casing unless someone can tell me I'm missing something? I keep thinking theirs a hidden set screw somewhere?

Thanks
John
 

ab59

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If you have the OMC Gimbal Puller then I don't know why you would ever put a come along on it or use a hammer on it to get it out. The bearing is just pressed in , there is no " keeper " of any kind . If you have the puller installed correctly , you then take a wrench and screw the bolt out to pull the bearing.
A.B.
 

blitz491

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I completely agree with what you are saying, I have pulled many a bearing and watched others on you tube pulling this bearing and this one is not popping out
 
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