Oil Leak and performance issues

JoeInRaleigh

Cadet
Joined
Jul 5, 2017
Messages
18
I removed the fuel pump and found that the diaphragm has a tear/split in it about 1/4 to 1/2 inch long. Could this be the cause of my problems? I'm prob going to order one but first going to see if there is a way to make one.
 
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JoeInRaleigh

Cadet
Joined
Jul 5, 2017
Messages
18
I guess if this was a problem with getting fuel flow properly, would the explain the stalling? When I'd did my ride at 10mph, the boat would stall every so often. I thought maybe overheating.

When you first mentioned checking the fuel filter I didn't look at the diaphragm honestly because I didn't even know what to check...
 
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jerryjerry05

Supreme Mariner
Joined
May 7, 2008
Messages
18,120
BOAT B.reak O.ut A.nother T.housand.

Even after over 30years I still learn new things.

When ever I start a new job/ project.
I get the manual or look up the parts for the things I'm going to be working on.
Google is a great tool.

That way I know what parts to order or describe.
Diaphragm: used to mean something else years ago.:)
 

JoeInRaleigh

Cadet
Joined
Jul 5, 2017
Messages
18
So I think I may have made a even dumberer mistake :). I had always assumed that the spark plugs were wired correctly to the distributor. I was double checking the manual and saw the numbers, I traced them to the assoaciated plugs. Firing order is 1324. The mapping was this D on left, C on right:

1:1
2:3
3:2
4:4

Should the mappings be exactly number to number? I swapped to make the numbers right and after fixing the diaphragm and adding heat I still had sneezing. After the swap to make each line equal the sneezing seems to have gone away and I can now lower the idle screw on the side of the motor that pushes the came. The manual doesn't make it tentirly clear and I'm probably over complicating at this point but figured I should get this right for sure.
 

JoeInRaleigh

Cadet
Joined
Jul 5, 2017
Messages
18
Ok, I think I have answered my own question with a little due diligence, hopefully I'm right.

Cylinders on this outboard are numbered top to bottom with 1 at the top.

Firing order is 1324 and is represented by the counter clockwise rotation of the distributor. The number one point on the distribute is just below the adjustment screw near the motor wall to the left. The number 3 point is to the left of the number one point, then number 2 and 4 respectively.

Each numbered point on the distributor matches to the numbered cylinder which represents the order in which each cylinder is fired.

So therefore, each numbered point on the distribute is connected to the correspond plug on the cylinders.


In this case, my plugs were not wired correctly from the very beginning :(.
 

JoeInRaleigh

Cadet
Joined
Jul 5, 2017
Messages
18
Hit the water today and WOW! The boat took off like a rocket. I was sort of worried the motor might be too big for the boat lol. I rode for around two hours and pulled back in with almost no issue. The experience was very rewarding after putting a lot of work into making this motor run. Thanks Jerry for the help!

The only issue I had is that the motor would kick up when trying to reverse. I will check if maybe I'm missing a lock, may need to learn how to ease out better.

Sort of wondering what will be the next thing to replace but goi g to take this victory for now.
 

Nordin

Commander
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
2,634
There is a lever between the transom clamps that says RELEASE- ENGAGE. It handle a springloaded plate that catch the trimpin.

Engage is when you running the boat and it makes the plate holding at the trimpin. When reversing it will hold the engine in the water and not to kick up because of the reverse turning of the prop.
Release is when you tilt the engine out of the water.

The springloaded plate will slide of the trimpin if you hit something in the water. This is to protect the LU fropm bad damage if hiting something.
 
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