Old school winterize ? New Thread

Lou C

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Nov 10, 2002
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Re: Old school winterize ? New Thread

I fill it with the no tox AF mixed 50/50 with water and leave it in since it had corrosion inhibitors in it. The day before I put a jug in the freezer set to zero just to make sure it really won't freeze!s
 

garycinn

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Oct 7, 2003
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Re: Old school winterize ? New Thread

Originally posted by Lou C:<br /> So what I do is after running it on the hose, changing the oil and fogging it, I drain everything, poke all the holes out, disconnect all the hoses from the thermo housing, dump the water out of those hoses, then fill up everything with no tox AF that has corrosion inhibitor in it. After draining, I jack the boat up and down, to make sure all the water gets out. Last 2 winters, we got down to zero several times, no problems doing it this way. I wonder if the corrosion inhibitor helps, that is the main reason why I do the AF.
I do the same procedure using Prestone Low-Tox -- a Poly Glycol coolant. I make sure I use distilled or RO water. The reason I winterize this way is because my Merc factory manual specific for my engine recommends this procedure. Good enough for me. They also state that emptying the drain hoses may be acceptable, but the recommended method is filling back up with 50/50 thru the t-stat housing.
 
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Re: Old school winterize ? New Thread

I need to take a look at my engine this weekend but I only have 3 hoses connected to the T-Stat. Two hoses go to exhaust manifolds and one hose to engine circulating pump. <br />Do I need to remove any of the other hoses? How do I get antifreeze into Power steering cooler? <br />I have the new single point drain system with only drain plugs on thermostat and water distribution housing, so not alot of ways to verify antifreeze is where it should be. I am going to more closely examine the engine this weekend.
 

Lou C

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Re: Old school winterize ? New Thread

What power package do you have? My OMC power steering cooler has a drain on it, and you can also drain it by disconnecting the hose that comes from the transom to the thermo housing, and pointing the hose down, with the bow of the boat jacked down so the end of the hose is at the lowest spot. I do this with all the hoses at the thermo housing, then replace the drain plugs and fill up each manifold hose, the one to the outdrive (AF will come out the prop or water pump housing on a Cobra drive) and the one to the water circulating pump (af will eventually fill the block and start to come out of the thermo housing). Then I reconnect all the hoses. I will crank the motor just for a second to make sure af gets into the water pump housing on the outdrive.<br />I got all this out of the OMC manuals, so I know it is the right way at least for this particular engine/outdrive.
 
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Re: Old school winterize ? New Thread

Lou,<br />I have the new 5.0L MPI 260hp engine with alpha 1. I am going to really investigate the drain plug locations tomorrow. I agree with your logic on not using the 5 gallon AF tank on muffs. I also like the idea of cranking the engine but not starting it to get AF throughout. I was planning on using the -50 Propylene glycol AF from SeaFit which is sold at West Marine and is also used at full strength. Should I be using something with better rust prevention?
 
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Re: Old school winterize ? New Thread

I appreciate everyone's help being a newbie but here is my cooling system breakdown:<br />1.Water in outdrive through water pump, power steering cooler to check valve. What does the check valve do? Sounds like it keeps water from draining out, which would be a problem.<br />2.Water goes from check valve to fuel cooler to a distribution housing.<br />3. Water then goes from housing to T-fitting which routes water through exhaust manifold and back to Thermostat.<br /><br />I guess if thermostat is closed, the water exits the exhaust manifold without going through the engine.<br /><br />Obviously I am very new to this but it does not appear that I have a direct water feed to the thermostat for winterization.<br /><br />Please help
 

Lou C

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Re: Old school winterize ? New Thread

If yours is new and under warr you have to be real careful since if you mess up they will not warrantee it. I would get the Merc service manual and do exactly what they say as far as winterizing goes. There is a lot at stake if you are in an area that gets cold weather.
 

BigPoppaG

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Sep 22, 2004
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Re: Old school winterize ? New Thread

Do you fog the engine the same time you are running the anitfreeze through it? It seems to make sense considering that if you fogged it then ran antifreeze all the fogging oil would evaportate and if you ran antifreeze and then fogged it, flushing it would wash out all the anfifreeze. Stupid question looking for a smart answer.
 

mellowyellow

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Jun 8, 2002
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Re: Old school winterize ? New Thread

price vs. cost...<br />if you pay too much, all u are out is a few $.<br />pay too little and u not only lose what u spent,<br />but a WHOLE lot more.
 

tommays

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Jul 4, 2004
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Re: Old school winterize ? New Thread

i hope this is a smart answer<br /><br />you will never get anybody to agree on the antifreeze question it will be a 50/50 answer<br /><br />i dont use antifreeze i carefully drain the motor after fogging and have not had a problem<br /><br />when i worked at oyster bay yatch service around 1975 we winterzied more boats than i could count with out useing antifreeze and never had a problem<br /><br />i would like to see anbody show me a drained motor that had freeze damage<br /><br />tommays
 

Bondo

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Re: Old school winterize ? New Thread

i would like to see anbody show me a drained motor that had freeze damage<br />
And,<br />Other than a Raw water cooled, Saltwater run motor.......<br />I'd like someone to Show me a Rusted Out Block........ ;)
 
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