Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

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KRS

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

Want to order carb rebuild kit, but don't see any numbers on this carb; ideas?

tiller carb.jpgtiller carb.jpg
 

KRS

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

Carb has this number stamped on it:

5120C8K
 

RogersJetboat454

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

Want to order carb rebuild kit, but don't see any numbers on this carb; ideas?

You wouldn't order it by the carb numbers. Should be a Model number on your flywheel cover for the engine. Parts are ordered based on the engine model number.
There are lots of on-line parts websites where you can get the stuff you need if you don't feel like making the trek to a local small engine shop.
http://www.outdoordistributors.com/tecumseh/tecumseh_part_lists.html

That empty hole may be where your idle mixture screw lives, thats not good.:eek:
Should look to see what a parts schematic for your model engine has in that hole.

Parts should be still available, even though Tecumseh engines folded a few years ago.
 

KRS

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

Question about the breather assembly.

I pulled it out, and cleaned it. Cleaned the plastic woven filter.

The cover plate has a hole in it. The breather tube is inserted inside. Then, a brass fitting is slid inside the end of the breather tube. Problem is, there doesn't appear to be much clearance between the inserted end of the breather tube and the breather inside. I'm thinking it may be resting flat against it and there's no flow. Is this supposed to be tight?
 

KRS

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

Troy - Built tiller
Model: 12155
Seriel: 121551209849

Engine
Model: H30 35387 Y
Family: TTP156U1G1EB
148 displacement
D.O.M. 8078 B
 

windy5849

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

You have a Tecumseh series one carb.That empty hole is the idle air screw,and with it missing,I'm surprised the engine even ran.As stated above,look on the recoil cover near the spark plug for the engine model number to determine which carb kit you need.You should see a number such as H30,H35 or something like that.After you have the model number,search Ebay for Tecumseh carb kit and the seller usually describes which ENGINE the kit fits.Part number 631021 is a needl and seat kit,but you need a kit that includes an idle air screw(approx.$10 for the kit).
Check page 91 of the manual I linked for info on the breather,it sounds like it is OK.Hope this helps.

I guess we were typing at the same time.Being that it is an H30 engine,kit number 31840 at this link should be the kit you need.OR search Ebay for that part number and see if there are any cheaper.Since you have the carb off,may as well do a complete cleaning and rebuild.Pay special attention to the small holes in the bowl nut.Sorry for the long post.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tecumseh-HSK35-...235?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a05138303
 
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KRS

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

AHHHHHHHHHHHH, I was trying to match those numbers; like the 631021 to the part on the diagram linked in an above post: my carb is numbered 640167; I didn't know that 631021 was a part number and it didn't have to match the carb number.

So, search for the parts I need, then make sure it's for an H30 and/or a Series One carb.

THANK YOU!

KRS
 

KRS

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

I appreciate the help, no worries about the length of the post.
 

KRS

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

Several repair kits with that number that say they're for H30; but they have parts that look different than mine. Particularly the bowl screw. Mine is brass and doesn't have a screw in the center of it that goes up inside the carb; some rebuild kits show that. I'm a little lost again; may go to the local shop tomorrow.

Been to the local shop before.... not excited about it but I'll give them another try.
 

Tim Frank

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

Jack's Small Engines for parts.
 

RogersJetboat454

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

Troy - Built tiller
Model: 12155
Seriel: 121551209849

Engine
Model: H30 35387 Y
Family: TTP156U1G1EB
148 displacement
D.O.M. 8078 B

By that info, this MAY be the carb kit you need (don't hold me to it, check it out your self);


Part No.: 31840*
Description: Carburetor Repair
Kit
Models Used on: H, HH, HS, HSK,
HSSK, HT35, HXL35, LAV, TNT100,
TVS105, TVXL105, V, VH70
Link to this kit; http://www.jackssmallengines.com/se...wh7co&cof=FORID:11&q=31840&sa.x=7&sa.y=16#147
 

RogersJetboat454

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

Several repair kits with that number that say they're for H30; but they have parts that look different than mine. Particularly the bowl screw. Mine is brass and doesn't have a screw in the center of it that goes up inside the carb; some rebuild kits show that. I'm a little lost again; may go to the local shop tomorrow.

Been to the local shop before.... not excited about it but I'll give them another try.

Some of these kits cover a broad range of carburetors, therefore have parts in them that you may not need to use. The bowl screw with the screw in the center is for high speed mixture adjustment. If you don't want that, then don't use it (clean and re-use your old one). They are really not that big a deal to adjust if you have one though.
 

KRS

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

Went to local parts shop today. Took the carb, took all of the tiller numbers (engine number etc).

Got a new screw, air filter, bowl gasket.

Wrong screw. Won't fit.

Had nothing but problems from that place, really dislike it.

KRS
 

windy5849

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

After looking through different references,if your carb is a 640167,then kit number 632760B is the correct one.I don't see the missing screw/plug/restrictor included in the kit.This is a link to a parts breakdown for your carb.Not sure what to recommend at this point.New carb seems extreme at around $50?

http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=tecumseh&mn=TEC-640167&dn=CASERIES_191640167-CA
 

KRS

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

It does seem extreme. I'm headed into Tucson today, I'll lookup a tecumseh parts house and stop in there today. Thank you for the carb diagram. It's not quite right; mine doesn't have a bowl drain, or a throttle plate spring, and the fuel inlet is wrong, but it's close.

Funny how many versions there are, sheesh!
 

dolluper

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

What year is it 1987...if so no high speed screw in bowl means it's an emission carb ...is the float plastic ...if so it may be an Oregon replacement carb
 

windy5849

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

I hope the carb will fix that problem and don't forget to check these items for the oil leak.

BREATHER PASSING OIL
1. Check the oil level, make sure the engine is not overfilled. Also verify that the viscosity rating on the container of
the oil being used is to specification.
2. Check the angle of operation. Avoid prolonged use at a severe angle.
3. Check the engine R.P.M. setting for excessive R.P.M. using a vibratach or other tachometer and compare it to the
R.P.M. settings found on microfiche card # 30 according to the engine model and specification number. Adjust the
high and low R.P.M. as necessary.
4. Check for leaking or damaged gaskets, seals, or "O"-rings. External leaks may not be evident; however, the leak
may prevent the engine from achieving a partial crankcase vacuum.
5. Check the breather for damage, dirty condition, or improper installation. The oil return hole(s) must face down.
6. Check the engine compression using a compression tester. If the engine has weak compression, determine the
cause of weak compression: worn rings, leaking head gasket, or leaking valves.

Good Luck.
 

Pascal

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Re: Old troy-built tiller with 3 hp tecumseh

Okay, compression tested dry at 50 psi, wet at 75 psi.

That doesn't sound good.

Never done rings before, ever. Never seen it done.

KRS

Those pressures are not that bad for a little engine like that - rope pull starter and all...... not to say that there isn't a ring problem. the 25 psi jump for the wet test is a little higher than you might like to see but depends partly on if the engine was sitting or warm or cold or ..... before the dry test.

Most of those little engines have a compression release built into the exhaust lobe of the cam. Some are a solid bump on the cam base circle... Techumseh calls it 'bump compression release - BCR', and others-mainly on larger engines- have a flyweight system that retracts as soon as the engine starts. Easier to pull start or crank at low RPM but little effect at low or high engine idle speeds.

Briggs tagged their engines with this feature as 'easy spin' or some such phrase.
 
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