OMC 3.0L Sterndrive repair/swap

robcurtiss

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Jan 19, 2010
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I took my 1989 OMC 3.0L sterndrive to the shop to get the gears properly shimmed. I lack the proper tools to do so, and I know they had NO shims whatsoever. Once it was opened by the mechanic, there was gear wear (not surprising since it had no shims, and before I had it, no castle nut to hold down one of the gears). He strongly suggests replacing the gears, for an additional price of just under $1000 in parts (labor is already nearly $400 for the work.)

I found the ad below for a local boat for sale:

http://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/bar/2424386649.html

Here's my question: Do I: A) spend the big bucks and get the sterndrive completely redone, which would cost 50% of the boat price last year, B) have the shims installed and use the old gears (mechanic says the gears will last 4 hours) or C) buy a parts boat and use a used sterndrive of unknown condition?

Also, my boat is an 1989, is the sterndrive compatible with the used 1987?

Your thoughts are appreciated.
 

HT32BSX115

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Dec 8, 2005
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10,083
Re: OMC 3.0L Sterndrive repair/swap

Hmm....the trials and tribulations of buying/fixing obsolete stuff.........

Sorry for the editorial!!


The bottom line question is basically, do you spend a LOT of money rebuilding a (not well supported) Edsel or do you spend a bit more and get a something that IS and will be supported for some time to come?

If you want another pig-in-a-poke, get the parts boat. The drive will work, if it's on the back of the same engine(and it's the correct drive to begin with)

[from craigslist] This is a fixer-upper. Motor cranks but will not run properly. Motor will need work. Outdrive good.
There is a risk buying a "Craigslist" boat, engine and/or drive.....I have found that you can not always believe what the PO (previous Owner) says.

All "said-and-done", you may end up with a cracked block engine, and a thoroughly screwed up drive, both of which is worth NOTHING...........AND then, you still don't have a drive on the back of your boat so you can go boating!!


My choice would be to probably either do the SEI conversion or find a boat with a Mercruiser 3.0L engine and drive to replace it with(same risk though) .....It might cost a little bit more money but in the long run, you might be happier......


Good luck,


Rick
 

sea wolf

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Apr 3, 2002
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1,219
Re: OMC 3.0L Sterndrive repair/swap

The SEI conversion will run you about 2k. But, you'll have a 3 yr. warranty on it. Me, I wouldn't sink another grand into the OMC.
 

robcurtiss

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Re: OMC 3.0L Sterndrive repair/swap

I love the idea of a conversion to a better format. However, this is only my 2nd boat...the first was a $500 15' fiberglass openbow with a 55 Evinrude...I bought it without it running, turns out it was a backwards fuel line. Needless to say, I put a decent amount of money in keeping that boat on the water for 10 years. This boat was a major upgrade for me, but still only $2500 (1989 18' open bow)...I have never owned an I/O, so I was naive to the issues with owning an OMC. That being said, a $2k conversion is not in the picture. I have opted for the parts boat, but waiting to hear from the guy to check it out first. It's not the best option, but I love this boat (especially compared to the old one)...
 

byrontony

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Apr 7, 2010
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Re: OMC 3.0L Sterndrive repair/swap

Last year my upper unit was toast, I went the same route as you, Craigslist boat for cheap, bad motor/good drive. I worked out for me thankfully, but I was also able to pop the cover and inspect the upper gear set before purchase.

The parts boat also had the exact motor/sterndrive combo as my boat (2.3 Ford), so I've scored a lot of spare parts besides the drive. I've already used the ESA module from it so that saved me a few bones.

@HT32BSX115, is that a C-17 in your avatar? My son's a loadmaster on one. Stationed at McChord.
 

HT32BSX115

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Re: OMC 3.0L Sterndrive repair/swap

Last year my upper unit was toast, I went the same route as you, Craigslist boat for cheap, bad motor/good drive. I worked out for me thankfully, but I was also able to pop the cover and inspect the upper gear set before purchase.

The parts boat also had the exact motor/sterndrive combo as my boat (2.3 Ford), so I've scored a lot of spare parts besides the drive. I've already used the ESA module from it so that saved me a few bones.

@HT32BSX115, is that a C-17 in your avatar? My son's a loadmaster on one. Stationed at McChord.

A parts boat can work just fine if you get a good engine and/or drive....... Just make sure that the drive comes from the same engine. If you get the wrong ratio, it may not work well or at all.......

C-17.........I'll bet he LOVES it!!............. I did it from about 2000-2004 in the USAFR @ McChord (then I retired!.........24 years was enough!!)
 

southkogs

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Re: OMC 3.0L Sterndrive repair/swap

I have an OMC too. Worse yet, I have a 40 year old OMC STRINGER (there are support groups for guys like me). But honestly, I've been surprised what I have been able to find for it. Watch Craigslist, but be careful buying the $1,000 "worked when I stored it 5 years ago" stuff. I was able to catch a boat to strip parts from (I didn't even have to haul the hull off) and got a complete stern drive, controller (with a working shift switch - normally sells for $150 on ebay) and lower unit for $75. I bought the whole bunch of them to start rebuilding a 2nd outdrive (planning for the inevitable :D).

There are also a couple of marine liquidators around (one nearer me in Georgia - Lake Lanier Marine Liquidators) that have working - not rebuilt - stringer drives for sale. They're not cheap, but they only range in the $700 to $1,000 range. I haven't gone down that road yet, but I've kept an eye out. I haven't looked at the Cobras, but I'm sure they would have some of those too. Like Craigslist, they're selling so it behoves them to put a positive spin on stuff, so be careful.

I got my boat CHEAP (insert OMC/STRINGER jokes here), but even with the 4 repairs that I've done/ am doing this year I'll have boated 2 summers on a pretty nice 18' for less than $2,200 including purchase, registration, repairs and fuel. If I can get a few more seasons out of her (and I'm getting more confident I can get many more), it'll have made for some very inexpensive recreation - albeit with a few headaches.

Hang in and wait for your pitch.
 

robcurtiss

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Jan 19, 2010
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Re: OMC 3.0L Sterndrive repair/swap

Thanks for the advice, folks. I am going to look at the parts boat today. I intend to look at the upper gears before even entertaining an offer. The guy has it listed for a 'sacrifice' of $1000...He's going to get less than that from me for a boat that hasn't touched the water in years.

BUT, that being said, I haven't ran my boat yet. I have the stern drive off still and want to make sure it still runs before I invest in another boat and become Dr. Frankenstein. I hooked up my garden hose to the inlet tube on the block where water comes in from the stern drive. When I turned on the water, without the engine running, water was coming out of the block. It was NOT from a gasket area or a freeze plug. It was coming from the block, below the intake manifold, above the freeze plugs. It seems to be a hole that is supposed to be there, but it is send water out of the block and into the sump area. Could this possibly be just because the water pump is NOT running? Is it a pressure relief hole?
 

HT32BSX115

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10,083
Re: OMC 3.0L Sterndrive repair/swap

Could this possibly be just because the water pump is NOT running? Is it a pressure relief hole?

You most probably have a cracked block.........


Remove the riser and manifold and carefully inspect block in that area up under close to where the manifold contacts the head just below where the head gasket is.
 

robcurtiss

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Re: OMC 3.0L Sterndrive repair/swap

the water is not coming from the head gasket, but from a small spot just below that gasket area, maybe 1/2" below. The water comes out in a small stream, as if from a place it is made to come out, not weaping or spraying like I would expect from a crack.
 

HT32BSX115

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Re: OMC 3.0L Sterndrive repair/swap

the water is not coming from the head gasket, but from a small spot just below that gasket area, maybe 1/2" below. The water comes out in a small stream, as if from a place it is made to come out, not weaping or spraying like I would expect from a crack.

The GM 3.0L engine should not have any "place" for water to come out of the block in that area. It might be a spot that was a crack that someone tried to grind and fix with epoxy that has subsequently fallen out....


You have the manifold off? snap a pic (in focus!) of it and post it....
 

robcurtiss

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Re: OMC 3.0L Sterndrive repair/swap

I'm not going to lie...I was HOPING that there was some small difference between the automotive and marine blocks...I pulled off the exhaust manifold and saw what I didn't want to see, a horizontal crack along 80% the length of the block.

This was my first I/O and I did very little to winterize it (I'm in Michigan). I got lazy with my boat as my job picked up (teacher)...and it cost me.

So any thoughts now? I am scheduled to look at the parts boat tomorrow...but now I need an engine (probably just the long block? as all other parts should be okay?) AND the stern drive. I just bought the boat last year and got it running right at the end of the year. Now I have to do it all over again...ugh.

Any thoughts or words of solace are appreciated...but no need to bad mouth my decision. As I've already told a friend, I tried to just shoot myself in the foot, but I missed and hit my balls.
 

byrontony

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Apr 7, 2010
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Re: OMC 3.0L Sterndrive repair/swap

At least you recognize your mistake. I've felt your pain, I once filled my sterndrive from the bottom port and we all know what that leads to.
 

HT32BSX115

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Re: OMC 3.0L Sterndrive repair/swap

.
I was HOPING that there was some small difference between the automotive and marine blocks
My dad used to tell me to "hope" in one hand and S**t in the other and see which one fills up first!

There is NO 3.0L automotive engine. That engine was only used in boats, forklifts, generators etc.....

You'll need to find a long block. Here's one place, there are MANY others.

As far as the drive is concerned, it has to come off anyway (to remove the engine) so you can look at it once you get it off.....look carefully at the U-joints, bellows, gimbal bearing, etc.

If you do not have one, NOW would be a good time to get the correct Mercruiser service manual.....
 
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