OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

outboardguy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 16, 2004
Messages
262
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

Have you ever had the boat winterized? The reason I ask this is that our lake is very low and our shop boat ends up driving through more dirt than water.After a while it would heat up so we would go and open the petcocks and jam a small screwdriver in the hole until all the dirt was gone and water flowed smoothly.It is very possible that your block is so full of sediment that the cooling water isn't as effective.Anyway I would try to drain the engine and see if that helps. Good Luck :)
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,358
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

That is worth checking, when I drain the block there is always some rust and sediment in there that has to be poked thru with a screwdriver so it will drain
 

tyvicire

Cadet
Joined
Feb 5, 2004
Messages
22
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

Do you run water through engine during this process?. What would be the best way for me to go about flushing it? The worst part about all of this is that when I bought the boat about a year ago, I did not pay attention to the temp gauge During trial run. But Every time that I have personally had the boat out since, I have had this problem. Which makes it hard for to know if there could be sediment in the engine, but It sounds like it would great if thats what it is indeed.
 

outboardguy

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 16, 2004
Messages
262
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

You should probably drain the block while the engine is off. If there is way too much in there so that you don't feel that you got it all out, then run it on a hose for a few minutes and then drain again until all is good.
 

kenimpzoom

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2002
Messages
4,807
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

Others may find it helpful for you to post the overheating problem history.<br /><br />When did it overheat so bad that the engine froze up?<br /><br />Why did you get the impeller changed?<br /><br />Did the guy who changed the impeller tell you that anything was unusual?<br /><br />Are you new to this boat?<br /><br />Ken
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

hello<br /> well I would do a leakdown test before spending anymore time or effort with that engine. the "freeze" was the pistons actually got so hot and expanded so much as to stick in the cylinder. means they got to big for the hole. I have seen this destroy engines while others it does not seem to hurt. but you really should see if yours is a lucky one. try all of the advice but I am leaning towards a clogged block. leaking head gasket( a leak down test can find this) or a low flow problem.<br /> good luck and keep posting
 

tyvicire

Cadet
Joined
Feb 5, 2004
Messages
22
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

Referring to KENIMPZOOMS questions. I bought this boat about a year ago. Didnt pay much attention to the temp gauge during trial run (big mistake). I am sure that this boat had this problem when I bought it. As for when it froze up. The first time I took it out, I brought the family out and did a little tubing. After about an hour I realized that the temp said about 210-220 degrees. I was cruising at about 3000-3300 rpms. I lowered the rpms and drove to a nearby dock. We grabbed a bight to eat and about an hour later went to start boat up and it wouldnt even turn. I was hoping it was just the battery....it was froze up. I was able to free motor after working on it at my home and then brought it down to a bayliner shop. They put a new impellar on it and told me that the old one was melted up a little but didnt seem to be missing any pieces. They replaced the the whole pump assembly. When I took it out and realized that it was doing the same thing. I took the thermostat out completely. Didnt helpmuch. So I then put new Manifolds, Risers, thermostat, and checked hoses and a few other items and everything seemed to be OK. That about sums it up to where I am out yet. Ran boat yesterday for about 20 minutes. Would not heat up for me, but I havent done anything to it yet. I am going to drain the engine today and see what happens. That would be wonderful if that is all it is. I will post back to let you guys know. I appreciate all of the input I have recieved. You guys are great. Thanks, Mike Greene.
 

tyvicire

Cadet
Joined
Feb 5, 2004
Messages
22
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

I went ahead and disconnected hose to thermostat and then proceeded to open engine drain plugs. The water flow seemed pretty good. Did not take to long to empty. I ran a piece of wire up in each of the holes but didnt seem to have much resistance. I ran a hose full pressure into the thermostat and the flow coming back out of the drain seemed good.I then ran bought and of course it would not heat up. The temp only got up to about 130 after about 10 minutes. The last time I brought the boat to a mechanic, they had the same problem (wouldnt heat up)but when they ran in the water and put a little more strain on motor, it heated right up. With this said, you would think it would only happen when in water, but not too long ago(couple of wekks ago), I ran it with muffs and it went straight to redline and I had to shut it down...............I just dont know anymore.ANYONE WHO IS GOING TO BUY A BOAT...(ALWAYS CHECK ALL GAUGES WHEN TRIAL RUNNING A BOAT AND TEST IT AT ALL RPMS INCLUDING FULL TROTTLE). I wouldnt have bought the boat if I would have paid a little more attention. Lesson learned.
 

kenimpzoom

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jul 13, 2002
Messages
4,807
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

If it overheats when running hard, maybe the ignition is too far advanced.<br /><br />Also, when it froze up, are you sure it wasnt hydrolocked (cylinders full of water). I think this can happen if the manifolds are bad.<br /><br />Intermittant problems are a pain in the neck. You are going to have it overheat again, before you can find the problem.<br /><br />Ken
 

maxum454

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 21, 2003
Messages
30
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

Hi<br />wodering if you have a bad heat sensor unit?
 

tyvicire

Cadet
Joined
Feb 5, 2004
Messages
22
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

I DONT THINK IT HYDROLOCKED. AS FOR THE MAINIFOLDS. THEY ARE BRAND NEW. I REALLY DONT HAVE THE KNOWLEDGE TO KNOW IT THE IGNITION IS TOO FAR ADVANCE. COULD THAT REALLY CAUSE THESE PROBLEMS? iI AM ALSO UNFAMILIAR WITH WHAT IS MEANT BUY A HEAT SENSOR UNIT?
 

Lou C

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Nov 10, 2002
Messages
13,358
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

I think he meant the sending unit that mounts to the manifold and measures the water temp and sends an electrical signal to the dash gauge. If it is defective it will not read right. Too much ignition advance can cause pinging, detonation and may make the motor run hot. I would like to see what happens if you put it in the water, disconnect the hose from the OD to the thermo housing, and start the engine, see if you get that nice stream of water. Don't forget running it on the hose pressurizes the passages in the OD and it can mask a bad impeller, or a leaking water tube inside the lower unit that may allow it to pull air in. Same with a distorted or poorly sealed impeller housing.
 

tyvicire

Cadet
Joined
Feb 5, 2004
Messages
22
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

Yeah, but even when I had the impellar and entire pump replaced to all new, I had the same problem again. Also it has overheated even with the pressurized hose. It may sound as if I am disagreeing alot, but there is no harm meant. I am dying to find out what is causing this. :confused:
 

tyvicire

Cadet
Joined
Feb 5, 2004
Messages
22
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

I have an uncle that is a pretty damn good mechanic. He cant actually be here to help due to about 1000 miles between us but he seems to believe that this is a cracked head that I am dealing with. He said that the 305 engines were known to have a hot spot and were prone to have problems with cracked heads. He believes that My engine is blowing compression causing it to heat up. I dont want this to be true and I am trying my hardest to lean away from that. I am curious if someone would know if this could or could not be the head and why. Thanks again, Mike Greene
 

Bondo

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Apr 17, 2002
Messages
71,291
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

Your Uncle Just Might Be Right......<br /><br /> "curious if someone would know if this could or could not be the head and why" <br /><br />Or Course it Can Be......<br />Why ?? You Over-Heated it At Least once, Probably More....<br />Take Extremely Hot Cast Iron,+ Throw Cold Water on It...... C R A C K !!!
 

tyvicire

Cadet
Joined
Feb 5, 2004
Messages
22
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

Is there an easy way to tell if circulating pump is bad on engine. I have already taken off. Appears to be pretty good. I will probably replace it anyway. By the time I find this heating problem I will have a new engine.... :)
 

Peter J Fraser

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 22, 2003
Messages
598
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

You can check the re-circ pump by spinning the flange by hand (you would need to remove or loosen the belt(s)). You should feel the drag from the seal and when you release the flange it should "rock back" slightly due to the spring tension.<br /><br />There were a few posts some time back about impellors and the different types of materials used. If yours is made of mild steel (automotive type) it may have rotted the fins off. You can remove the back cover of the pump to inspect the impellor but of course the pump has to be off the engine first.<br /><br />"EDIT" !!!!<br /><br />Silly point but is the thermostat the correct type for engine. Has it got or does it need a valve disc to shut off the by pass curcuit in the housing when engine is up to temp.<br />If that is required but not on your thermo the water can continue to circulate inside the block and heads and cause overheating instead of drawing cold water in from the normal means.<br /><br />Good luck,<br /><br />Peter
 

tyvicire

Cadet
Joined
Feb 5, 2004
Messages
22
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

Hey Peter, Thank you for your input. I have the pump in front of me. I took the back plate off and the fins look good. I wouldnt have even noticed the little rock back unless you said so. It is very slight. There is no noise when I spin it. As for the thermostat. It is a 160 degree thermosat. It is the correct 1. I put a new one in there about 2 months ago. The old one worked fine. I checked it in a pot of water on the stove. With the way that this pump looks I am starting to lean torward blockage somewhere in the engine. Thanks, Mike Greene :)
 

Peter J Fraser

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jun 22, 2003
Messages
598
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

Boy I hope you beat this soon. Are there any sections of flexible hose on the suction side of your sea water pump that may have collapsed with the suction from the pump?<br />Can you substitute a section of hose on the pressure side from the SWP to see if there are any bubbles being carried in the water.<br />That would show if there is a leak before your SWP.<br />Any way I'm allowed to go home now as it is 5.00 pm Tuesday. End of working day. 17 hours ahead of you guys.<br />See you tomorrow.<br /><br />Peter
 

merc 140 pontoon

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 23, 2003
Messages
129
Re: OMC 305 OVERHEATING AT IDLE & HIGH RPM

OK, I know nothing about OMC. Having said that, I had a similar problem with my Merc 140 I/O. Early on, somebody told me to confirm that the entire flow path for water was clear of rubber impeller pieces, which get released into the stream of water when the impeller shreds. I am assuming here that the OMC has a rubber impeller similar to a Merc. The water path is from the pickups, through the pickup pump, up through a tube, into a "water pocket" (on some Merc drives), through an orifice, into a hose which goes to the transom, through a fitting, into the hose from the transom to the thermostat housing, through the head and block passages, into the manifold, up through the riser, out the elbow, into the exhaust passage in the driveshaft housing, down through the gear housing, and out the center of the prop. I did what you did, by pulling certain hoses and checking flow. The problem I ran into was that I always had great flow at idle on the muffs, but would overheat whenever I sped up on the lake. Well, one day on the lake it overheated and stayed that way, i.e. it would overheat even at idle. This turned out to be a good thing, because I could replicate the overheating with the muffs back at home. I was able to determine that I wasn't getting good flow from the sterndrive to the transom, even though the pickup pump and impeller were brand new. So, OK, I pulled the lower unit (gear housing). The tube looked fine. Then I pulled the plastic cover for the water pocket. I did this because some references mention this cover warping due to exhaust heat, and then at speed the cooling water can leak out around the warped cover. Nope, mine was perfectly flat, but I had a new one anyway. Then I reached way up inside the driveshaft housing, into the water pocket, and guess what I found--old pieces of rubber impeller shreds jammed into the orifice in the wall of the pocket. It took awhile, but I was able to get all of them out. I could tell that some were very old, and that I had pieces from at least two previous impellers. These pieces were lying in the water pocket, staying near the bottom at idle. But as the cooling flow increased with higher rpm, they would get caught in the flow and clog the orifice. Now I realize your OMC probably doesn't have a water pocket, but the point here is what some guys told me right off--if you think an impeller has ever been shredded in that sterndrive, you need to check the whole water path for impeller pieces. You can use the "divide and conquer" technique as you've been doing. I got lucky in that my problem got stuck so I could find it. My next step was going to be to put a clear hose in place of the transom-to-thermostat hose, because many people told me you'll see bubbles in there if the flow from the sterndrive isn't keeping up. And the clear hose can be observed at speed. Good luck, I hope you get lucky like I did (after I fought my overheating problem for about 4 years, 2 mechanics and 1 rebuilt head).<br /><br />M140P<br /><br />P.S. By the way, here are the little buggers that caused me so much grief... pic1 pic2
 
Top