Re: OMC help needed....????
Oh, and about running with the drive tilted up. There was a pretty good debate about that last week. I ran my tilted a couple of times a year, for trailering, avoiding really shallow water. It is not a problem as long as you don't do it often, or for very long, and do not exceed about 1000 RPMs! It is no replacement for a trolling motor for sure.<br /><br />The gears that link the intermediate housing and the outdrive (and allow the drive to tilt up) are called ball gears, and some wear is OK. I think the book says to replace them when they are 75% worn down. THAT is a job for a pro (special tools needed), and those gears are expensive.<br /><br />Tom
Oh, and about running with the drive tilted up. There was a pretty good debate about that last week. I ran my tilted a couple of times a year, for trailering, avoiding really shallow water. It is not a problem as long as you don't do it often, or for very long, and do not exceed about 1000 RPMs! It is no replacement for a trolling motor for sure.<br /><br />The gears that link the intermediate housing and the outdrive (and allow the drive to tilt up) are called ball gears, and some wear is OK. I think the book says to replace them when they are 75% worn down. THAT is a job for a pro (special tools needed), and those gears are expensive.<br /><br />Tom
a long time ago, so here's an update. <br /><br />I had to rebuild both my trim and tilt motors.<br />the trim had a dead spot in it, that I managed to find and fix, but what a ***** getting it back together and working again. I must have done it 15-20 times before I finally got it right. All the other times it kept overheating, so I figure I just wasn't getting the angle just right for the pole to turn with.<br /><br />The trim motor was full of water and oil, but that was an easy rebuild, and worked right away after cleaning it all up.<br />I then removed and rebuilt the upper drive and trim casing. While I had it off, I replaced the boot, which was rather easy once I got the strap tight enough around the WHOLE thing to hold long enough to tighten it. I did move the position of the strap tightening screw though from the top to the right side, and not sure that was a good move yet since I'm afraid perhaps there may be some more friction in that spot with the boot trim/tilt movement. <br /><br />The only problem I still have after all this is after putting the shift cable back together, I just can't get the setting right for the esa, or whatever it's called on the stringer series. I ended up disconecting it to prevent all the stall outs from forward to reverse, and haven't really had a problem all summer anyway. I even took it to a marine mechanic on the Trent one day, and he said it was a hit or miss thing in getting the setting right, and that if I wasn't having any problems without it, then don't worry about it. <br /><br />I'll look for those 4 barrel #'s for you, and my trim gauge is fine, unless I'm missing the point here