OMC-My reverse does'nt work

Hunterdoug

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I've got a 1976 cobalt with a 235 OMC I/B. I believe it has an electric throttle. It goes into forward perfect. However, it will not go into reverse. What might be the possible problem(s) or solution(s).
 

skipster04

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Re: OMC-My reverse does'nt work

Same problems I'm having, shift cable. saw one on ebay for about $300 used...
 

bruceb58

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Re: OMC-My reverse does'nt work

A 76 OMC is an electric shift so there is no shift cable.

First thing I would check is the electrical connections at the drive. You can test with a meter if you are actually getting voltage there. There are two wires. One for forward and one for reverse. You could swap them to verify it isn't your control that isn't working.
 

Hunterdoug

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Re: OMC-My reverse does'nt work

I checked both the leads at the drive and when in forward it read 3 amps. When I put it into reverse it read 3amps. I tried crossing the wires near the ignition. No Luck! Is 3 amps enough to engage?
 

QC

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Re: OMC-My reverse does'nt work

Hi doug, it's me . . . Kevin. I found out they require 2 AMPs and 12 volts to stay engaged, so juice does not seem to be the problem. Anybody know if these things are known for intermittent problems? Do the coils just freeze up and then unfreeze? We were getting 2.8 - 3.2 AMPs (Forward and Reverse) at the wires entering the lower unit consistently. There are probably some handle issues, but when we did get Amps, sometimes Forward didn't go and Reverse never did . . . :( I would like to help this guy avoid pulling the lower unit and looking for coils if possible.

I have to say, this is the first electric shift I have ever played with. When it is right, that thing shifts so smoothly, quickly and no monkeying with the control handle through clutch dogs. Sometimes ideas are ahead of their time. I for one think these things were/are cool. PITA today, but still cool.
 

bruceb58

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Re: OMC-My reverse does'nt work

Been awhile since I owned one of these but I know there is a spring in there that has a tab that is know to break off when the drive is put into gear at higher than normal idle speeds. This spring may also just break after time. Sounds like the coils are energizing correctly.
electric_shift.jpg
 

QC

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Re: OMC-My reverse does'nt work

Wouldn't there still be Amps showing at the wires whether or not the Coil actually energized?
 

bruceb58

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Re: OMC-My reverse does'nt work

What I am saying is that the coil is energizing but there is something wrong with the spring.
 

QC

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Re: OMC-My reverse does'nt work

OK, but shouldn't we still hear or see (multi-meter) evidence that the coil is trying to slam things together?
 

QC

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Re: OMC-My reverse does'nt work

OK, I see that. Thanks.

I am still confused about something and I am probably not being clear. Forward was intermittent on Monday, worked 100% of the time the previous Friday. Reverse has been 100% dead, but I can see good amperage to both wires all the way down to where they enter the lower unit. If the forward spring was bad I would think that it would not show intermittent operation. If the reverse spring is bad would I not still hear something as the coil magnetised? If the reverse coil was bad I would guess that there would be no sound, no nothing as I get now. Thoughts?

I have not completely eliminated the handle as the problem although I have seen power on the multi-meter at the lower unit as I mentioned. However, I have not had the multimeter at the lower unit when it was actually running. Soooooo, it is possible that when the unit is running that I have lost power to the lower unit 100% of the time for reverse and sometimes for forward although that seems unlikely. I have witnessed no power to the reverse side at the helm with it not running, but I have seen power at the helm with it running. I probably need to check again for all possible combinations; I know that weirdness is always a possibility.

I guess I could also confirm my suggestion that I should hear something when it is not running by listenting for forward when I know that it is actually working . . .
 

bruceb58

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Re: OMC-My reverse does'nt work

So..I guess I am confused. Who is working on this boat...both of you?

To eliminate the handle, just get a jumper and bring it down to the shift wires. Another thing...there should be a ground strap between the drive and the intermediate housing. If there isn't, you should add one.

This is the first I heard of the intermittent forward. I thought that worked fine.
 

QC

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Re: OMC-My reverse does'nt work

I am helping him . . . I briefly mentioned intermittent forward in #5. He didn't. Good idea of the jumpers and the ground. I'll check.
 

jrluedke

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Jul 24, 2006
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Re: OMC-My reverse does'nt work

Hello everyone.

I know this is an old thread, but....................

About a year and a half ago I came across a 1977 Cobalt (one owner) with 326 hours. 351w and stringer outdrive... ($1000, boat, trailer and air lift) .. dont forget the 8track tape player.

I have seen alot of negative on these out drives but I love the boat, it is a classic. I have a Clymer manual.

I have lost reverse last spring, replaced the forward controls, have voltage to both the forward and reverse on the out drive. I just ordered a spring off of Ebay and I was wondering if I still have to drop the bottom to be able to replace this or can I just leave it on.

reguarless of all the negative about this drive,,,,,,, I love it. I have all the tickets for oil changes and repairs dating back to 1978.

I am teaching my sons how to take care of the teak and buffing the gell. They think the 8 track is the greatest thing.

P.S.
I am always up for a challenge.

Thanks in advance
Joel
 

QC

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Mar 22, 2005
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Re: OMC-My reverse does'nt work

I learned some stuff here . . . Good luck. You should drop the drive anyway and change the water pump impeller . . .
 
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