One Step Wax/Cleaners

TrenchFisherman

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Apr 7, 2002
Messages
220
I want to wax my boat and the manual says to use a light rubbing compound and then put a wax over it. I was wondering if the one step products they have out there work well instead of doing the two step process. Thanks!
 

Wellwater

Cadet
Joined
Apr 25, 2007
Messages
29
Re: One Step Wax/Cleaners

I just used that 3m polish/wax and it did a great job. I used it on a 1980 silverline boat that was oxidized very bad and it brought back the shine on the gel coat by using a (mothers polishing) wheel on my electric drill. I couldnt believe how it turned out when finished ,highly recomend it,this stuff works!.
 

salty87

Commander
Joined
Aug 12, 2003
Messages
2,327
Re: One Step Wax/Cleaners

i'd say it depends on how bad the hull is.
 

mattttt25

Commander
Joined
Sep 29, 2002
Messages
2,661
Re: One Step Wax/Cleaners

used 3m one step on my 1994 white hull, did an ok job.

this year i went with meguirs 3 step process. much better results, but obviously more time in it.
 

I/O WALDO

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 16, 2005
Messages
320
Re: One Step Wax/Cleaners

Lets sea how long til the oxide returns!
 

flashback

Captain
Joined
Jun 28, 2002
Messages
3,988
Re: One Step Wax/Cleaners

I think you need to do it in 3 steps. by combining the cleaning and waxing into one step, I feel you will just rub the dirt in instead of removeing first and then waxing....IMHO
 

magster65

Commander
Joined
Sep 1, 2002
Messages
2,573
Re: One Step Wax/Cleaners

I have quite a bit of experience with this and just went through the whole process again, I'll pitch in. If the boat doesn't have any oxidization, any of the one-step products will work, McGuiers is my preference but 3M product is just as good probably (I like the smell of the McGuiers :). You'll have better results with a power buffer/polisher than you will by hand. Any oxidization HAS to be removed. Wax will only hide it (sort of) temporarily. In these areas use a 2000 grit paper and wet sand the area. You can check your progress by drying it and taking a close look. Once all the oxidization is gone I like to use a rubbing compound and work the area with the polisher until the compound is dry and the surface is shiny.
Nope, you're not done yet :)
Take the polishing cloth off the buffer and wash it... too much grit it in. Put on a new cloth, then (I) use a McGuiers swirl remover and work it in the same way until the paste is dry and the hull is shiny. There shouldn't be any swirls left now but check. Change your polishing wheel or at least wash it again. The last step is the wax and it's a no-brainer when the hull is in this good of shape now... wax on - wax off. You may have slightly better results by rubbing in a straight motion instead of a circular one (like waxing a black vehicle).
It's best to work in 2 or 3 foot patches to keep the products from drying out too quickly. Stay away from cleats and antenna wires when you've got power buffer going but it does a nice job on your aluminum and stainless trim. Don't spend much time with grit compounds over your decals and try to get the wheel to go along the edge of the letters not straight across them. Clean the wax out of the corners and edges with a toothbrush and your wifeys favorite cotton blouse (why am I single?).
My boats have all been in the 26' range and they take about (using a power buffer and depending on how much wet sanding there is) 10 hours for a bridge boat and 8 for an express... a 20'ish runabout shouldn't take more than 3 or 4 hours.
If you do this your shiny little boat will sparkle amongst the others.
 

I/O WALDO

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Nov 16, 2005
Messages
320
Re: One Step Wax/Cleaners

Agreed magster,I follow your method butt also wetsand till the water runs clear.One other step is MeGuiar's #55 sealer before the wax to really seal that raw gelcoat.Will last all season even in a slip!
 
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