outdrive seized on boat, any good suggestions?

turbocorrado

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got the trim arms off, all 6 bolts holding it on are off, sprayed penetrating oil in there and have been hitting the seam with a hammer, but nothing is working. the boat sits to low to pick it up and drop it letting it bottom itself out, the skeg will hit the ground. before i run to work and get my air hammer to try and break it free does anyone have any other suggestions??
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,.... Put the trim rams back on, 'n use 'em to push it off,... Raise the boat, so ya got room to work,....
 

Bt Doctur

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to clarify bondo`s statement, with the rams on, place a wood spacer between the top of the drive and the transom housing or transom. use the rams to push the drive
adding spacers as necessary.
A 2 cinderblocks and 2 x12`s makes a nice ramp
 

turbocorrado

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i was able to get it with a 2x4....bearing came out with it, oil in the u joint boot
 

turbocorrado

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which seal lets the oil in the u joint bellow, is it on the transom side or the outdrive side??
 

turbocorrado

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the bearing surprisingly isnt seized, it spins... its definitely bad, but it spins. and the ujoints are just surface rust, they move perfectly with no binding
 

Scott Danforth

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your input shaft seal to the outdrive is shot. because the bellows was shot. which is why the oil reservoir was empty.

I would replace the input shaft and u-joints. you need a good surface for the seal, plus rust never sleeps - it just creeps
 

bruceb58

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I am now wondering what the inside of your drive looks like. Time to take the top cover off.
 

Bondo

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im about to try and get the bearing off the shaft, once i do the top cover is coming off

Ayuh,.... There's really no need to,.... To fix the seal, yer gonna replace with new that shaft assembly, from end to end,....
Only the nut, 'n gear on the other end are reused,....
 

bruceb58

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Ayuh,.... There's really no need to,.... To fix the seal, yer gonna replace with new that shaft assembly, from end to end,....
Only the nut, 'n gear on the other end are reused,....

True, pulling off the bearing carrier is the next step.
 

telstar1

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Yes you could replace the shaft etc but it may not be even remotely necessary. There was oil in the boot not water,things might not be in that bad a shape. u joints usually last many many years(Ive run them 20 years and several thousand hours without changing them)You can get a speedi sleeve for the seal surface if its bad. Spend a lot or spend a bit its your call.A bit of surface rust on the shaft is no big deal.
 

turbocorrado

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im planning on taking the shaft off and taking it to work and trying to press the bearing off. il see what kind of condition it is in once i get it off, as of now the ujoints are fine. i just gotta figure out how to get everything apart to get the shaft out of the upper

 
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turbocorrado

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any alternatives to a spanner nut wrench, or am i at a stand still untill i get one?
 

turbocorrado

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yeah, im ordering one tomorrow. think i may grab some paint and blast it while i wait since it looks pretty ratty
 

Bt Doctur

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I see trouble with that shift shaft sticking up.
Listen, if you pried the units apart I want you to STOP right now and get the manual before you damage it beyond repair.
Handel the lower unit like a grenade with the pin pulled, unless you really want to do a full teardown. right now your unhooked from this.
and if it pops off the bottom pin your FUBARD
IMG_1356.jpg
 
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turbocorrado

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i didnt pry it apart, the shift shaft cleared the upper housing just fine when i pulled it apart, there is a ~2-3" cutout in the upper for that whole section to slide out
 

Bt Doctur

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It was pulled up , that shaft dosent move splitting the drive. From the water pump wear plate ,its 3 inches to the top of the shaft. That aint 3 inches
UntitledSR_zps8e71969e.jpg
 
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