Overheat on my 3.0l...

ZachDean

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 26, 2012
Messages
41
Re: Overheat on my 3.0l...

I gotcha. I took it as the welding was work hardening it but your saying the fatigue was work hardening.
 

NetDoc

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
517
Re: Overheat on my 3.0l...

Different materials react differently. Mild steel relaxes as you heat it and quick cooling (like quenching) introduces internal stresses all over again. Copper is the opposite and a quick bath in alcohol is the best way to anneal (soften) copper. During my stint at the University of Florida, I paid part of my way by apprenticing in the Department of Chemistry's machine shop and a P-Chem lab for those four years. Afterwards, I ran a student machine, welding and structures lab for UF's college of Architecture. I have a good grasp of metallurgy though I would never claim to be an engineer.
 

ZachDean

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jan 26, 2012
Messages
41
Re: Overheat on my 3.0l...

I graduate next Saturday from Arkansas tech university with a bachelors in mechanical engineering with my focus in metallurgy. Now if I ever use it in the future that's a good question.
 

NetDoc

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
517
Re: Overheat on my 3.0l...

You're way ahead of me then. I think metals are fascinating and love to keep learning about them. There was a professor who loved to cast things out of aluminum. THAT was fun. I fondly remember putting large styrofoam cups into sand and casting them into drinking cups for the lab. More trouble than it was worth on some levels, but they sure were conversation starters. Good luck in using it to be gainfully employed! :D
 

NetDoc

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
517
Re: Overheat on my 3.0l...

Update... While the pulley came out great, the bracket that holds and adjusts the raw water pump is wrong in two respects. First, after careful measurements, it's 0.9373" out of plane with the water pump pulley it runs off. That still gives me an annoying whine above 4k rpm and can't be any good for the belt or the bearings. Second, whoever mounted this pump to this engine had no clue how to make a tensioning bracket. The only way to keep tension on the pump is to over tighten the pivot bolt. In other words, the tensioning bracket only serves as a stabilizer and not a very good one.

I have been wanting to add welding capacity to my little shop for some time, both gas and MIG. The former because heat, in the form of a torch is so useful. It's easier to bend steel and the hot wrench can really help getting things apart. Also, you can weld mild steel with such a set up in a pinch. I bought a set of Harris torches (with cutting tip and rosebud) off of ebay for $100. These were new, in a nice plastic case and I think I got a great deal for a quality set. Yesterday I went and bought a 125 cf O2 tank and a 75cf Acetylene tank for about $450. Then I went home to set things up. Trying to find a good source of steel here in the Keys is problematical. I found a 30" piece of 17/32" x 3/16" at an Ace hardware store for $2.99. It had nice shiny paint on it, but the magnet stuck, so I knew I had steel.

I first started to figure out how I would bend the steel edgewise. First I used the rosebud, but found it really lacked the power I needed. I switched to the largest welding tip and it was great. It was then I figured out that I needed a template to bend against. I have lots of wood and plastic, but they don't deal well with heat. :D It was then I remembered the cement/asbestos board that I have kept for many years. It was a toss out when I was a machinist at Lab Sciences where we made teaching tools for Engineering Schools. This is where I made a huge mistake. The radius from the center of the pump to either bolt is 2.50". I made two arcs. One for 2.25" and one for 2.75". I drilled 3/16" holes along each arc about every 1/2" and put #10 x 2 1/2" wood screws through the board and into the wood workbench below. I had also drilled two holes for #10 screws about two inches down on the other side of the steel. I would heat the metal to cherry red, bend it a bit and then flatten it on my anvil. It took about 10 minutes for each radius and I got them really close. I then ground the last 2.5" of the bottom of the brackets as well as an insert so that the two pieces would be 1/2" apart. I beveled the mating edges and welded them using gas and a mild steel filler rod. I could tell it's been 20+ years since I welded professionally and most of that was using arc or MIG. Fortunately, I got the hang of getting the puddle going and soon I had the first (and hardest) part of the bracket done.

Then I saw my mistake!

FirstBracket01.jpg


Bracket next to the steel stock it was created from.


FirstBracket02.jpg


Bracket next to the proper and improper radius.

The mistake? The pump pivots from the OTHER bolt and not from the center. I actually needed to make this with a radius of 5" and not 2.5". Too funny, but it was a great exercise to get me re-acquainted with welding and working with steel again. I went to SpeedyMetals.com and ordered 1/2" x 3/16" 1018 for the tensioner as well as 1 1/4" x 3/16" 1018 for the base. Together they cost about $12 and I will have plenty left over for other projects. However, it will be at least a week since I am headed to the Cave Diving conference this weekend in Gainesville, doing some classes in the early part of next week and then heading to 40 fathom grotto right after so I can finish my Tech Diving Instructor credentials for NASE. The steel will be in by then, and I might pick up either an old fashioned arc welder, or a small MIG. I still have to wire the basement with 220V for my compressor so I want to get something I can grow with.

This has been fun for me so far. I love to fix and create, and while I am not afraid to try, I am enough of a perfectionist to keep at it until I get it right. :D
 

NetDoc

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
517
Re: Overheat on my 3.0l...

Oh yeah, I cut the steel with a 10" abrasive cut off wheel on my chop saw. I love it when you can use tools for more than one medium.

BTW, I am reusing a bit of the old bracket. I have already cut the ears off. I will be extending the pump away from the block about another 3" so that I can get some good adjustment out of it. Also, moving the whole assembly forward almost an inch will eliminate the interference with the oil filter. I can't wait to get it back in the water. :D
 

NetDoc

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
517
Re: Overheat on my 3.0l...

As I was sitting through Beryl up here in Luraville, Fl trying to go cave diving, I ordered a 250amp Miller Arc Welder. I got a decent price on it and will hold off on buying a decent MIG until next year. It should arrive before I do, so all I'll have to do is to wire in the 220V outlet for it and my compressor.
 

NetDoc

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
517
Re: Overheat on my 3.0l...

Well, the welder came and I wired it up, as well as my 220V compressor! I made it able to handle 60 Amps, so I can only operate one of the machines at a time. That's cool since I can only work with one at a time anyway!

Anyway, the steel also arrived while I was in Ocala for a NASE technical instructor workshop. Today was the first day I got to play with everything, so here are the pictures of my morning's work:

bracket01.jpg


Getting ready to start work

bracket02.jpg


Template ready to heat and bend

bracket03.jpg


Lower part of adjustment bracket bent

bracket04.jpg


Lower part cut to size, starting on the upper

bracket05.jpg


Upper part bent

bracket06.jpg


Upper and lower welded into one unit


 

NetDoc

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
517
Re: Overheat on my 3.0l...

bracket10.jpg


Drilling the pivot hole in the support brackets

bracket07.jpg


Support brackets aligned and welded to the base

bracket08.jpg


Aligning the adjustment bracket before welding

bracket09.jpg


Final bracket before painting and assembly

This was a fun project and I am reasonably pleased with the outcome. The pump's bolt slides easily through the adjustment bracket. It's a bit hot out today, but I might just go put it on anyway. I love to start what I finish!​
 

NetDoc

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
517
Re: Overheat on my 3.0l...

It's been a while. The bracket has worked very well. Unfortunately, after I got rid of the pulley noise, I heard a horrid rattle. I have been traveling a lot and finally got to check it out today. As I suspected, the flywheel bolts were all loose. What kind of incompetent idiot leaves flywheel bolts loose? I pulled the engine out, torqued 6 new bolts to 65 lb/in2 and re-inserted her today and now all I can hear is the exhaust. No rattles. No whines. Tomorrow, I am taking her out. Yay!
 
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