Overheating 5.7L

witchy woman

Cadet
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
20
Sorry, this is a long one, but I've been chasing this rabbit for a few weeks now. Keep in mind that prior to this incident, the engine ran fine - but maybe hotter than it should have.

Engine is Mercruiser 2007 5.7L, 2 bbl carb. Sorry, can't tell you the serial number (it's not the original engine). Drive is Alpha One, gen 2. Bayliner boat if that helps. Original engine was a 1999 5.0L serial number 0L345352 and current engine is set up exactly the same way as the original.

Ran aground in the inlet about a month ago. Soft grounding, but the prop bumped in the sand enough that I wanted to pull the outdrive and have a look. I did and everything was fine, but while I was at it, I replaced the water pump in the lower unit, greased everything and put it back together. Outdrive joints, shaft, gimbal bearing and engine coupler appear to be fine. Good alignment - shaft slipped in like it had eyes of its own. Water pump was not damaged, but it was several years old so I replaced it while I had the thing apart. There was a pretty good pile of sand on the outside of the waterpump housing.

Since I was in inspection mode, I pulled the thermostat housing. It was clean. Moved on to the exhaust risers to see what condition they and the manifolds were in since it's getting about time for them to be replaced. Exhaust system looked much better than I expected, but I haven't run the boat much in the last 3 years (mostly haven't had the time). But I was surprised to find that the thermostat was a 140 degree, which I understand is correct for saltwater where I do most of my boating. I was surprised because my gauge always ran at 175 degrees. So I tested the thermostat per the Merc manual and it worked fine. So I put everything back together, new gaskets everywhere. The thermostat was in correctly. It's not possible to properly seat the plastic keeper in the housing if the thermostat is in upside down. I should also say that before this incident, the exhaust manifolds and risers never got so warm that I couldn't hold my hand on them (which makes me question the calibration of my temp gauge).

Now on muffs in the yard gauge shows about 165. Took the boat out and at anything above about 2000 RPM the temp gauge ran up to 175 then suddenly dropped off to 140, then repeated the cycle over and over. It looked like a sticking thermostat, so I put in a new 140, pulled the outdrive one more time just to make sure I hadn't missed anything and just for giggles, I put the old water pump back in. Now on muffs it was rock steady at about 165 degrees, so I put it in freshwater this weekend and the temp gauge did the same thing - up,down, up down. So I eased down the river for a while, anchored, cleaned the boat while kids swam, then decided to pull the thermostat out for the trip back - just to eliminate it as a source of the problem. When I removed the thermostat housing, it was full of water, so I felt confident that the outdrive was putting water into the system. Running (at about 3400 RPM) on plane back to the ramp the temp was pretty steady at 150 degrees and only wavered about 5 degrees up or down. At this point, I'm blaming the exhaust for not letting the water out because I felt like the temp should be lower than 150 with no thermostat.

But! About half way back to the ramp, we suddenly hear a rattling sound so I slowed and idled back to the ramp. Had no idea what this new problem was but it was not audible at low RPM. Well, yesterday morning, I wanted to start the process of elimination, so I pulled the supply hose off the thermostat housing and had it in a bucket to test the volume of water coming from the outdrive, but the engine wouldn't turn over. Hydrolocked. I pulled the exhaust off both sides, risers, spacers and manifolds, then began pulling spark plugs. Third one back on starboard side let out a gush of water. I'm fairly certain I have a blown head gasket - no water in the oil. Turned the engine over and oiled the cylinder several times to protect it until I can get to it. Next step is a compression check, but I think I know what I'll find. I set both manifolds upright and filled them with water and neither showed any leakage overnight. They're actually in very good condition and I no longer think they are at fault in this. The manifold to block gaskets were in good shape as well. I'm pretty sure the mysterious "rattling" sound was caused by the blown head gasket (at least I hope it's the gasket and not a cracked head).

So after all that, here's my 2 questions - 1)why is the engine temp fluctuating so badly? 2) why did a head gasket suddenly decide to blow (if it did - haven't confirmed that yet)?

I have a theory, but I'm long on theory and short on solution right now.
 

jackd1023

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 15, 2006
Messages
269
Re: Overheating 5.7L

Sounds like it could be the circulation pump ( water pump on cars) not the impeller easy to pull and check only 2 gaskets. Impeller injects water into the system and the circulation pump does as it sounds.
 

Fun Times

Moderator
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May 16, 2009
Messages
9,141
Re: Overheating 5.7L

I pulled the thermostat housing. It was clean. So I put everything back together, new gaskets everywhere. The thermostat was in correctly. It's not possible to properly seat the plastic keeper in the housing if the thermostat is in upside down. Took the boat out and at anything above about 2000 RPM the temp gauge ran up to 175 then suddenly dropped off to 140, then repeated the cycle over and over.
Hi there, Is the thermostat kit an OEM from Mercruiser?

Before installing the thermostat, Did you install a cork type gasket into the thermostat housing? or a rubber O'ring?

Next you install the thermostat then the plastic sleeve.

Also, on the gasket that goes between the thermostat housing and the intake manifold, Where there two brass rivets on both ends of the gasket? If yes, did you cover them with a sealant of any type? or go on dry?


You're gaskets should look like this, Mercruiser NEW OEM Thermostat Housing Cover Gasket 27 530451 53045 530451 | eBay

And this, 27 806871 Gasket Thermo HSG Mercury Quicksilver Factory NEW | eBay
 

81 Checkmate

Lieutenant
Joined
Jul 20, 2010
Messages
1,360
Re: Overheating 5.7L

Do a compresion test...that will tell ya if the head gasket is blown.

Did ya shut it down quick and backwash up into the y- pipe?

Im thinking you had a bad seal on the riser. Did you drain the water before you pulled the risers? If not that will let water into a cylinder.
 

NHGuy

Captain
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
3,631
Re: Overheating 5.7L

I'm with 81, if you do the compression check and find good #s it's not the head gasket. Head gaskets are uncommon in boat engines.
So, look up and perform tests on the risers and exhaust manifolds,especially the starboard parts. If they are good carefully reassemble the riser to manifold joints with new gaskets and test it out. If you are lucky you just had a gasket issue. Can't allow cooling water into the exhaust tract! It's an issue that I have experienced firsthand.
While you have everything apart make sure your mating surfaces are flat, rinse out and root out any stuff in the cooling passages. The passages in the risers and exhaust manifolds are easier to clear while they are off the motor.
 

witchy woman

Cadet
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
20
Re: Overheating 5.7L

Had time to do a compression check. Here are the results:

Starboard side front to rear: 170, 100, 125 (but falls off rapidly), 175
Port side front to rear: 185, 150, 115, 180

I have to conclude at least the starboard head gasket is blown (or worse) and I'm not at all sure the port side isn't as well with that 115 on the 3rd cylinder (checked it twice).

In response to Fun Times: what you describe with the thermostat is exactly what I did/used. After running without it the last time out, I really don't think it was causing the engine temp to fluctuate. It could have been caused by the circulation pump as jackd suggested, I will pull it and check it too. I had thought about it, but it appears and sounds to be working all right. And in response to Checkmate - I did drain the water before removing the risers. They were bone dry when I took them off.

I will check the manifolds with acetone this weekend but I seriously doubt they are faulty. At this point, I have to suspect my riser installation. I used the same gaskets as where on them (metal/graphite with four ports), cleaned them and torqued to specs. Is there a tip or trick that I need to be aware of? What really has me worried is that I don't know what to do different than I did the last time.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Jul 23, 2011
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50,426
Re: Overheating 5.7L

from what I read, you have a few issues going on.

Did you flush the block after your motor ingested sand? I have seen a good deal of sand and gravel in the water jackets. This may be a contributor.

When you pulled the manifolds and risers, did you use OEM Mercuiser gaskets or did you use the Sierra "Green Leakers"?

With your compression readings, I would pull the heads. you have an issue in cylinders 4, 6, 3, and 5. you should be getting between 167-185psi (10% variance max). this is either rusty valves and seats from water ingestion, or bad head gaskets.

Lastly, your dash gauge is merely a suggestion. it is best to take an actual reading with an IR thermometer of the intake manifold right next to the thermostat housing. then note the reading on the gauge. for example, my boat reads 150 degrees on the head when I know that the block is at 160. My last boat read 165 degrees when the block was at 142.
 

witchy woman

Cadet
Joined
Apr 13, 2009
Messages
20
Re: Overheating 5.7L

Scott, I did flush the engine on muffs after the sand incident and of course I was running in freshwater after I did all the maintenence I originally described. I used the OEM gaskets (metal) when I pulled the risers for inspection.

How do I flush the block without running the engine because I too think sand in the water jacket may be the problem.
 

Bondo

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Apr 17, 2002
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71,137
Re: Overheating 5.7L

Scott, I did flush the engine on muffs after the sand incident and of course I was running in freshwater after I did all the maintenence I originally described. I used the OEM gaskets (metal) when I pulled the risers for inspection.

How do I flush the block without running the engine because I too think sand in the water jacket may be the problem.

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,... Remove the drain plugs from the block, they're down low, mid-way at the lower rail,...

Poke, 'n prod 'em free with a screw or nail,....
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
Staff member
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Messages
50,426
Re: Overheating 5.7L

I normally flushed the blocks thru the two drain holes using 1/4" poly ethylene tubing and a hose-end adapter with a compression ferrul - all parts available at lowes or home depot or Menards.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_443061-104-...URL=?Ntt=1%2F4+polyethylene+tubing&facetInfo=

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

http://www.lowes.com/pd_82543-104-L...1&currentURL=?Ntt=hose+end+fitting&facetInfo=

not sure the last one is the correct one, however you get the idea

I spend about an hour until the water coming out doesnt have sand in it. I have also pulled the thermostat and used a welded up plate to flush thru the intake and heads. its crude, ugly, however works well..

if you are not handy in making a block off plate, there you could also use the stock marine thermostat housing, remove the lines from the exhaust manifolds and back-flush the block with the drain ports open.
 
Last edited:

UK boat user

Cadet
Joined
Sep 16, 2013
Messages
7
Re: Overheating 5.7L

UK boat owner...I'm with Scott, I think you have more than one issue! My 5.7LX has the same symptoms temp hits normal, then dies back to almost cold, to come back and then die.
anyway I've just looked at this link re the circ pump see pic in this link!!
here is the link!
http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser...l-temp-gauge-fluctuates-100-170-a-441583.html
and have decided to change my circ pump (see pic in link) I've done T'stats etc and other stuff...(see my thread here http://forums.iboats.com/mercruiser...7lx-fluctuating-water-temperature-628010.html)

so, I hope you don't have head gasget issues..as the circ pump is easier & cheaper $$$
 
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