PL Question... What is it?

[mercurymang]

Re: PL Question... What is it?

I'm not sure would need to wait the three days in your case as the outgassing is not contained in the fiberglass. I think you need to worry about that when you are bedding stringers and you fillet them in with PB over the PL.
Do I have this correct?

 

[matt167]

Re: PL Question... What is it?

So, not to hijack, but I'm getting ready to do a transom replacement, but if I use the PL to laminate the two sheets of 3/4" plywood together, and let them sit for 3 days before covering in glass, I should be ok?

It looks fairly simple to work with and as long as it is sealed up tight it looks like it should last a good long while.

My boat is 28 years old, if I follow the FriscoBoater methods it should be good for another 30, which would make me 73 when this needs to be done again.

Yes, it would be best to let it gas out for 3-4 days before you tab the transom in after laminating your halves with PL. You could glue it to the hull with PB or PL either way at day 2 ( listed cure time 48 hrs ), just do not tab it before 72hrs. If in doubt, wait a day.. I actually just completed laminating the transom for my Custom craft with PL last night. Friday, I should be good, but I won't tab until next week just to be sure

 

[matt167]

Re: PL Question... What is it?

I'm not sure would need to wait the three days in your case as the outgassing is not contained in the fiberglass. I think you need to worry about that when you are bedding stringers and you fillet them in with PB over the PL.
Do I have this correct?

Right, if you PL the transom togther, you can attach it to the transom skin ( PL or PB would be best ) after 48hrs, just can't fillet or tab before 72hrs or longer otherwise it can delaminate due to escaping gasses..

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: PL Question... What is it?

Or better yet, glue the two halves together with Titebond III and fuhgetaboutit!!!!

 

[greenbush future]

Re: PL Question... What is it?

On my Lone Star Transom I used hairy PB to join both plywood pieces, then more PB to install the new transom to the transom skin. Any left over PB I had was used to filet the transom edges, but I needed quite a bit more than what was left over when I installed the transom. My point is there is always somewhere else to use the left over PB, instead of using another product. I also used hairy PB to bed my deck the the stringers, and then the filet all the way around my deck to the hull. Not sure if this is the best way to do it, but I found using just one product (PB) was simple for me.
Reading this thread, I realized that I didn't seal my deck underneath, I only sealed with 2-3 coats of resin, no CSM was used. It's filleted, CSM'ed, and glassed on top. My original floor didn't have any glass under the deck when I pulled it up, so that was my reason for not doing it. I guess the resin will seal it some what. Good information here guys, thanks for sharing.

 

[britisher]

Re: PL Question... What is it?

So, not to hijack, but I'm getting ready to do a transom replacement, but if I use the PL to laminate the two sheets of 3/4" plywood together, and let them sit for 3 days before covering in glass, I should be ok?

It looks fairly simple to work with and as long as it is sealed up tight it looks like it should last a good long while.

My boat is 28 years old, if I follow the FriscoBoater methods it should be good for another 30, which would make me 73 when this needs to be done again.

I replaced my transom following the Friscoboater thread. My transom was full width at one thickness with a second layer about 24" across in the center. You prep both panels before installation INCLUDING laminating them. Once all cured off I installed the new laminated transom to the rear with PL and pulled tight the boat with 2 x 4"s and large nuts & bolts through the sterndrive hole. Some also drill through the hull to further tighten the new transom on. I didn't want to drill holes in the boat. After that, it was PB on all edges, then 1708 and CSM. The thickness of the sterndrive 'hole' needs to near 2". If yours is a sterndrive, you have to remember to remove the ply at the top to allow for steering movement of the gimbal.