Please Help, No Spark!!!

[Molaker]

Re: Please Help, No Spark!!!

With a good steady connection it read 0.00 - 0.04 ohms with a dead short. I trust my life wit hthis meter everyday but not sure of its pin point presicion.

Why what are you calling "bad" measurments.

Actually, I'd say your stator is probably okay. If the two output windings did not read the same, I might be concerned. But, yours looks okay.

 

[77Lark]

Re: Please Help, No Spark!!!

Two output windings? I only tested one pair from the stator. The yel/gry and yel that was landed on the term. strip (1.5 ohms). Is there another pair from the stator that needs to be tested?

The sensor wires I was reffering to were the triggers on the timer base.

sensor 1/2 on the power pack - 8 ohms
sensor 3/4 on the power pack - 8 ohms

Thanks
Adam

 

[jtexas]

Re: Please Help, No Spark!!!

Disconnect the rectifier and test for spark again.

The purpose of the rectifier is to charge the battery. The motor will run just fine without it, but a blown rectifier can (sometimes but not usually) ground out the ignition. Don't ask me why though - I'm pretty much a hacker when it comes to electronics - I assume it has to do with feedback or something, and the diodes failing open/short in the right (wrong?) configuration.

Some causes of rectifier failure: battery hooked up bassackwards, loose battery connections, excessive corrosion on battery terminals, battery cables rusted through, battery disconnected with engine running, engine rope-started with no battery installed. I have heard rumors that the 35-amp water-cooled rectifier/regulators can be smoked by jumpstarting the motor from another battery and by connecting a charger to the battery without first disconnecting it from the motor, but I don't believe those.

Anyway, still no spark - I'd go with the best info you have (timer base leads out of spec) and proceed with replacing the timer base - but I'd take the flywheel off & inspect the magnets before ordering parts. Just make sure all the magnets are glued firmly in place & haven't shifted or anything. Also inspect all the wiring for obvious faults (pinched wires, chafed insulation, burn marks, that sorta thing). disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic, just a determined do-it-yourselfer with more time than money to spend on boats.

good luck.

 

[77Lark]

Re: Please Help, No Spark!!!

but are the timer base leads out of spec? CDI says normal is 10-20 ohms and these are 8 ohm and are not cdi so maybe normal.

Anyone with an idea of what normal reading should be for this engnie?

 

[jtexas]

Re: Please Help, No Spark!!!

CDI troubleshooting guide is generally pretty clear about when their equipment specs vary from OEM - I agree with not randomly throwing parts at a problem though -

 

[77Lark]

Re: Please Help, No Spark!!!

JTexas,

Are you saying that I am throwing parts at the problem or are you agreeing that through my troubleshooting I have eliminated the stator and timer base (sensors) and confirmed a bad power pack based on my findings in my other post?

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=213547

 

[iwombat]

Re: Please Help, No Spark!!!

77 . . .

It's going to be easier for us all to follow along with what's going on if you stick to one thread.

 

[77Lark]

Re: Please Help, No Spark!!!

I know, I know sorry!!!

I thought it would help get the right answer but caused confusion. Won't happen again!

Sincerely,
Adam

 

[Molaker]

Re: Please Help, No Spark!!!

According to my Seloc manual, the sensor coil reading should be 8.5 +/- 2.0 ohms. Is CDI correct or is Seloc correct? I'd suggest CDI's measurement is for their version of the sensor and not necessarily for OEM version.

 

[Molaker]

Re: Please Help, No Spark!!!

JTexas,

Are you saying that I am throwing parts at the problem or are you agreeing that through my troubleshooting I have eliminated the stator and timer base (sensors) and confirmed a bad power pack based on my findings in my other post?

You sent me to the books and that's a good thing. I needed the refresher on how the system works. I agree with JTexas in that a bad rectifier might cause a no spark condition. The stator assembly altenator windings do share a common core with the charge coils. If your rectifier is completely shorted, it might load the charge coil output. I see no reason why you could not disconnect the rectifier and crank the engine to test for spark. If it still doesn't spark, you won't prove much, but if it does, the rectifier is the culprit.

 

[jtexas]

Re: Please Help, No Spark!!!

JTexas,

Are you saying that I am throwing parts at the problem or are you agreeing that through my troubleshooting I have eliminated the stator and timer base (sensors) and confirmed a bad power pack based on my findings in my other post?

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=213547

sorry, didn't express myself very well there - I'm just identifying with your earlier statement: "...budget is a little tight to start replacing parts that aren't broken..." - I meant I understand you not ordering any parts just yet ..........

...sometimes its hard to know when you've did about all ya can without investing in more test equipment or a trip to the shop.........

...I probably would be inclined to go with the CDI numbers - seloc covers so many motors in each book, sometimes they're a little off on one aspect or another of a particular model - but it seems like a huge difference between "8.5 +/- 2" and "10 - 20"............

 

[Molaker]

Re: Please Help, No Spark!!!

I probably would be inclined to go with the CDI numbers - seloc covers so many motors in each book, sometimes they're a little off on one aspect or another of a particular model - but it seems like a huge difference between "8.5 +/- 2" and "10 - 20"............

I would agree except for one thing. Both of Adam's sensor measurements were the same - 8 ohms. About the only way for a sensor coil to drop in resistance is for a few turns to be shorted. The likelihood of both coils having the same number of turns shorted is pretty thin. So, I'm more inclined to believe Seloc's specs in this case.