prep. AL hull 4 paint

mellowyellow

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the 28yr old paint on my 22' starcraft is in need<br />of attention, especially below the water line where<br />the old bottom paint is like chalk and really bad. <br />topside isn't so bad, but does have areas where<br />old paint is crazed/cracked. not looking forward<br />to the old wire brush and sandpaper...<br />suggestions?<br />thanks in advance,<br />M.Y.
 

ThomWV

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Re: prep. AL hull 4 paint

Let me suggest this, without making a pitch for one paint manufacturer or another, pick one of the better known brands, be it one like Pettit Interlux, or Awl Grip, but one that takes a system's approach to their product. Read up on them real well and once you decide on one of them follow their instructions to the letter. Don't skimp on anything and don't try to use any substitutes at all for any step from primer to cleaners to thinners to the final paint itself. I think if you do that you will end up with a paint job that will hold up for years and years with minimal maintainence.<br /><br />Thom
 

Bondo

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Re: prep. AL hull 4 paint

Yep,<br />What Thom says..............<br /><br />And,<br />I'll add, If the paint is Still Stuck to the Boat,<br />Sand it, but Don't Remove All of it......<br /><br />You Don't have to go All the way to Bare Metal.....<br />Just down to "Good" Paint..........<br /><br />I painted My Starcraft Islander with NAPA, MSU marine paint........ It's a 2-part Urethane.....<br />3 years,+ Still Looking New......<br />Well, Except for the Scratches I put in it..... :D
 

mellowyellow

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Re: prep. AL hull 4 paint

good advice as usual :) a light sanding topside<br />should be fine, but the bottom paint is beyond<br />sanding I think. maybe one of those wire wheels?<br />some paint stripper? it almost looks like it<br />absorbed some calcium desposits from the hard<br />water up there by you bondo.
 

Bondo

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Re: prep. AL hull 4 paint

Hard Water ??????<br />In Jefferson County ??????<br /><br />No Way........<br />Doesn't Everybody use 2 boxes of Soap to do a load of Laundry ?????????? :D
 
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DJ

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Re: prep. AL hull 4 paint

Here's a link to my last project and what I did.<br /><br /> http://mypeoplepc.com/members/djohns19/djohns19/ <br /><br />Here is what I did.<br /><br />1. Sand entire boat with 120 grit wet sandpaper.<br /><br />2. Wash entire boat with 50/50 solution of vinegar and water.<br /><br />3. Apply one coat (thin) of zinc chromate paint.<br /><br />4. Wet sand with 120 (very lightly).<br /><br />5. Apply one coat "Metalprep" primer. <br /><br />6. Wet sand with 120 grit.<br /><br />7. Apply finish coat of one part epoxy paint. I used Interlux "Brightside" one part epoxy-white.<br /><br />8. Wet sand with 220 grit wet sand paper.<br /><br />9. Apply final coat of "Brightside" one part epoxy paint.<br /><br />Hints: <br /><br />1. Use only the thinners approved by the paint manufacturer.<br /><br />2. Use very high quality brushes.<br /><br />3. You will need one quart zinc chromate, one quart metalprep, two quarts final coat-Brightside.<br /><br />I brushed mine. The Interlux paint flows out beautifully. You have to get very close to tell it's brushed.<br /><br />All of the paints and thinners mentioned above are available at: www.westmarine.com<br /><br />You could also use the products available from Pettit Paints. I used Interlux this time, because it was on sale.
 

12Footer

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Re: prep. AL hull 4 paint

Like previously mentioned, no need to remove all the paint---BUT, all bare aluminum must be primed. Make sure the primer you chose is a "zinc chromate" formulation, such as metalprep or alumagrip primer.
 

mellowyellow

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Re: prep. AL hull 4 paint

thanks again guys. think I'll start by renting a<br />power washer to get the lose stuff and then go from<br />there. from experience know prep is 90% of painting. if I could only find my digital camera,<br />I'd post pics :rolleyes:
 

Bass Runner

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Re: prep. AL hull 4 paint

Rather than renting a power washer, i just took mine to a (truck) wash and washed it all off, i've found that most of the car washes have more pressure than the washes you rent unless you get a commerical unit and less expensive. :D
 

mellowyellow

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Re: prep. AL hull 4 paint

thanks mike, but yur project (and DJ's) have been<br />memorized :) if I could only post a pic... but I<br />can't seem to find MY wife's dig. camera :eek: <br />and I was last one to use it....<br />anyways, let me b more specific. the bottom paint<br />is like chalk to the touch and has blisters of<br />what I think are calcium deposits from the hard<br />water in the 1,000 islands. unlike anything I've<br />dealt with over the years of sanding and primering<br />many an old chebbie. my fear is that after I take<br />off the lose spots/blisters, that it will bubble<br />later down the road???<br />wanna do it right the first time, even if extra<br />prep is involved... good paint ain't cheap ;)
 
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DJ

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Re: prep. AL hull 4 paint

MY,<br /><br />Even if the paint is chalky, it will be OK as long as it is still adhering to the aluminum. Just give it a light scuffing with 120 grit.<br /><br />I'm not sure what you mean by blisters though. What is underneath them if you sand one off?
 

mellowyellow

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Re: prep. AL hull 4 paint

sorry DJ, got out between raindrops and looked<br />again. mostly smallish raised bumps like crusty<br />zits and when u scratch off with nail u see the<br />Al hull below. perhaps they applied bottom paint<br />without proper prep?
 

Bondo

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Re: prep. AL hull 4 paint

I talked to an old hand from the River today.........<br /><br />He says, Use a Brushing(Scrubbing) of Diluted Muratic Acid(Mason's Brickwash).........<br />Then Flush it,+ Wash it......<br /><br />He says they use it on both Aluminum,+ Glass boats.....
 

mellowyellow

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Re: prep. AL hull 4 paint

local advice:<br /><br />A better alternative is to prime the weathered aluminum material with a thinned down oil based metal priming paint. Leading manufacturers recommend using one pint of paint thinner to one gallon of high quality oil based primer. This primer creates a barrier between the oxidized<br />aluminum and the finish paint. However, before you even think of mixing up and applying this primer, you need to prepare the surface for paint. If you read the labels on most paints, they will instruct you to apply the product<br />to a clean, dry surface. How do you get yourself clean? Soap, I thought so!<br /><br />Using any high quality powdered soap product, a heavy sponge, and a scrub brush, wash and rinse down your aluminum material. You will notice that some of the old paint will wash off in this process. Don't be alarmed. Rinse the material until no additional paint pigment can be detected in the rinse water. <br /><br />Allow the material to dry for several days. Apply the thinned metal primer. Consider having the primer tinted to one half strength the color of your finish paint. Your finish coat should consist of a 100 percent acrylic latex paint. Buy the most expensive paint you can find. It<br />usually contains the highest volume of acrylic paint resin. A higher volume of resin translates into a longer lasting paint job.<br /><br />You should apply the finish coat of paint within 48 hours of applying the primer. Absolutely do not paint in direct sunlight or on windy days. These conditions reduce the dwell time of the paint. The finish paint needs to dry slowly to achieve the best mechanical and chemical bond. Cool, overcast days are the best."<br /><br />P.S.<br />advice came from exterior siding (house) site,<br />but seems logical to me, at least for above the<br />water line.<br />thoughts/advice/experience?
 

jschloss

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Re: prep. AL hull 4 paint

DJ-<br /><br />I'm about to paint my 1998 14" alumacraft. I've been researching various forums on the web and you're advice in your various posts seems to be very sound. My old paint is adhering well, there are some bare spots and I've read your advice on how to handle them. After I apply the zinc chromate to the bare spots and scuff should the metal prep primer be applied just over the bare spots that have been covered by the zinc or should the metal prep also be used over the entire hull (i.e. over the existing paint) as well? Any advice or comment about using the Brightside primer or the Easypoxy undercoat before applying the finish coat(s)? Thanks
 
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