Pro Tree Cutters

dolluper

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Hi Guys I need to cut down about 4 80 foot Ash trees ....one is leaning towards a neighbours house....now without climbing it and topping it [that scares me} is there any other safe way to do it...I have calculated the lean and branchs on either side ...it has a 5foot lean towards the house.....so would a 70 degree hinge cut towards the right aiming 5 feet from crown work.....I have heard if when cutting after the hinge cut is made the side you first cut into the hinge ..it will fall to the other side is this correct????? ANY hints please please
 

MTboatguy

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Re: Pro Tree Cutters

Living here in NW Montana, I have quite a few times I have to take a tree down due to one reason or another, with trees that large, if your not real familiar with doing it, I would recommend hiring someone who does it for a living, I know I have cut trees the correct way and still had them fall the wrong way. That way if something goes wrong the pro will be libel and not you...now, if you had a friend with a winch on their vehicle, you can hook it up to the winch and pull it the right way, we have done this before to ensure it falls where we want it to...
 

JRJ

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Sep 11, 2001
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Re: Pro Tree Cutters

Hire a licensed, bonded pro. The only sure bet when falling, is that the tree will hit the ground somewhere or get hung up in another tree. Don't take chances with your neighbors house. Good luck.
 

drrpm

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Re: Pro Tree Cutters

If the trees are liable to fall on anything of value (like your neighbor's house)
using a pro is the best option. I would not recommend hooking up a vehicle with a winch to the tree. I know that it is done, but there are plenty of instances where the tree falls on the vehicle.
 

MTboatguy

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Re: Pro Tree Cutters

If the trees are liable to fall on anything of value (like your neighbor's house)
using a pro is the best option. I would not recommend hooking up a vehicle with a winch to the tree. I know that it is done, but there are plenty of instances where the tree falls on the vehicle.

Actually that is the way that most of us do it here in Montana, including the timber companies, we don't put our vehicles in line with the tree, it is a combination of wedges as well as pulling, I have never had a tree fall on a vehicle in over 35 years of cutting big trees down..

Go figure..
 

Tim Frank

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Re: Pro Tree Cutters

If you had started with "I have 4 - 25 foot....." I might have ventured an opinion/advice.
Four x eighty footers need the attention of pros as has been suggested.
They'll bring in bucket trucks and bring them down in small chunks.

This is not a job for beginners or cowboys. ;)
 

lncoop

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Re: Pro Tree Cutters

You'll probably save considerable bucks if you just have a pro drop them and leave them for you to process. That's what I usually do.
 

MTboatguy

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Re: Pro Tree Cutters

If you had started with "I have 4 - 25 foot....." I might have ventured an opinion/advice.
Four x eighty footers need the attention of pros as has been suggested.
They'll bring in bucket trucks and bring them down in small chunks.

This is not a job for beginners or cowboys. ;)

Tim,

The only reason I take my own trees down, is one, my brother-in-law has had a chain saw in his hands since before he could drive, he worked the big redwoods in California before they stopped logging them and second, I live on a good size chunk of land, with no threat at all of damaging anything....

But I agree, the best way to take 80's down with close neighbors in in chunks..falling them whole, is just inviting disaster!
 

paulspaddle

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Re: Pro Tree Cutters

I hired someone to take down some big Maples in my back yard this spring. Cut, mulched and cleaned up was around $600...money well spent.
 

Fl_Richard

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Jan 21, 2005
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Re: Pro Tree Cutters

Call a logger - They will cut down a good sized ash tree for free. They even dispose of them for free.
 

Bondo

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71,285
Re: Pro Tree Cutters

now without climbing it and topping it [that scares me} is there any other safe way to do it...

Ayuh,...A winch, 'n snatch-block would be a Good Start,...
Hook the line High in the tree for leverage...
I have calculated the lean and branchs on either side ...it has a 5foot lean towards the house.....so would a 70 degree hinge cut towards the right aiming 5 feet from crown work.....

The angle of the scarf cut(what yer callin' the hinge) has to be on the opposite side of the tree from the lean, or better yet, 90? to the direction of the Intended fall...(facing the pulling rope)
I guess I'm missin' what ya mean by the 70? statement...
I have heard if when cutting after the hinge cut is made the side you first cut into the hinge ..it will fall to the other side is this correct?????

Ya, sorta, kinda,... Depending on the wood, it'll turn slightly to the side that hasn't been cut through yet...
 

dolluper

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Re: Pro Tree Cutters

Hinge cut...notch cut out for falling....I've taken down a couple 100+ footers already with great success....but I used chains and winch...this one that leaning just looking for some confidence as I will chain it and I think I will bring out the wedge for it to....climbing it no way I'm not a pole vaulter seen the before guy from the hydro swinging in the wind on the end of his harness on a 60 footer
 

Bob_VT

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Re: Pro Tree Cutters

If it was me I would use a winch and blocks to pressure it and aim it properly.......

otherwise I would call a pro WHO IS INSURED ;) to drop them.
 

Tim Frank

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Re: Pro Tree Cutters

Tim,

The only reason I take my own trees down, is one, my brother-in-law has had a chain saw in his hands since before he could drive, he worked the big redwoods in California before they stopped logging them and second, I live on a good size chunk of land, with no threat at all of damaging anything....

But I agree, the best way to take 80's down with close neighbors in in chunks..falling them whole, is just inviting disaster!

:confused: Wasn't commenting on your post....I take my own trees down too, but nothing where there is anything to land on that might be a problem.
An 80 foot ash with a 5 foot lean towards my neighbours house would be a yellow pages exercise....for me at least....;)

And clearly you guys are neither beginners nor cowboys....:)
 

dolluper

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Jul 19, 2004
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Re: Pro Tree Cutters

Well I asked a wise man ....his answer is great,,, face cut to fall direction away from lean and danger....then backside cut 2 blade sizes....use wedges or for complete safety make square notch on top and bottom in 1 blade size.. smaller a bit,,then stick a jack in {truck jack} now you know the size of the notch...yea thats right thwe the size of your jack...crank the leaner up now ...then finish your back cut ifin you left enough for the blade between the jack and your first back cut....now you have a straight tree to cut still be scarefull

.......................................................... ----------_________________________________________
\ I
f
\ ______I
/ I
/ I________
face cut 2 bar sizes straight >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>notches place jack
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>between
<<<<< <<<<<< TREE>>>>>>>>>>

LEAN to right>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
 
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j_martin

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Sep 22, 2006
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7,474
Re: Pro Tree Cutters

Well, I'm not considered a professional, but I've cut hundreds of large trees, mostly oak, for fuel. If there's 5 feet of lean in a tree, you aren't going to get it to fall the other way without external force. The last bit of wood in the wedge and back cut (hinge) has to be on the back side of the center of gravity, or it just plain won't go that way.

I cut one 33 inch oak that had about 2" x 4" of uncut wood left, and it still stood there. A light tap on a wedge dumped it over.

To get a leaner going the right way, I use one or more 7/16 or 1/2 inch nylon rope(s), 100 feet long. I tie one end up high in the tree. How high is a calculated thing, depending on how big the tree is and how much pull would be needed to overcome the moment generated by it's lean. I calculate that. Using whatever I have handy for the pull, be it another tree and a come-a-long, or the 4x4, I stretch the rope(s) 10 feet in the intended direction, or a vector designed to produce the intended fall. Again, that's a calculated angle. If the lean is significant, the wedge and back cut have to be perfect or it'll go sideways.

The rope has to generate a spring pressure in the intended direction. Once the trees center of gravity gets past the stump, it doesn't make much difference what you do, it's going to go that way. The trick is to have enough spring pressure on it to get it to that point. 100 feet gets the pulling equipment out of harms way.

There's a whole lot more to it than that. There are many different ways to cut the notch, back cut, side cuts, or maybe no notch at all. It all depends on the tree and what you want it to do. It can get very dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. A tree can split and jump upward and backwards, first breaking your neck, then crushing you under the stem. It can fall the wrong way, or jump sideways. Probably one of the most dangerous procedures in felling a tree is the way the government "safety" manuals tell you how to do it. (set your running saw down and run)

If you can practice on trees that won't wreck something if they go the wrong way, you can probably quickly build up the confidence to take down trees near a building. Don't try it unless you have enough experience and confidence to say exactly where it's going to land, and how much in which direction it's going to spin coming down.

hope it helps
John
 

JB

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Messages
45,907
Re: Pro Tree Cutters

A lot of good advice there. I, too, have felled BIG trees near my own dwelling using ropes and come-alongs to influence direction of the fall. Always got lucky.

I don't really think luck is enough to save a neighbor's home, so I would hire an arborist to at least top the trees low enough so that they cannot do any damage. Then I would finish the job myself.
 

Tim Frank

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Re: Pro Tree Cutters

I have had good luck with two ropes at ~ 120 degrees, two come-alongs, two helpers....more control than one rope.

If you set on trying this yourself, check with your insurance company and see if you can get coverage specific to this.

I am not an insurance expert and did not stay at a HI Express last night, but maybe this would be included in your policy as it is.
....or not....and even for a one shot rider it might be prohibitively expensive....which tells you something...:)

JB's compromise is very sound. If you do all the cleanup etc and they just top them to a size that is manageable (say too short to hit your neighbour's ;)) it may not be that expensive.
 

dolluper

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Jul 19, 2004
Messages
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Re: Pro Tree Cutters

If you haven't guessed yet I'm crazy it will be done....with the help of loggong chains a winch .come along .wedge,jack and hopefully a sssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssouth west wind getting up this weekend I'LL take some shots of the task...before it's done...have to practice some more on about 12 more trees I aim for the pile of limbs,stumps but the leaner wont be going that way...below might be the jack method if it works or attachment nope to big a file
 
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