Problem removing a Bravo II

[pabble]

I'm trying to remove a Bravo II that has been in place for over 15 years and it isn't coming out easily. I have the tech manual and followed it's instructions I believe - cylinders disconnected and now in the down position, in neutral, speedometer disconnected, 6 bolts removed....but it has only slid out about 1/8". Is it just a matter of wiggling and pulling until it comes out or am I missing something? does anyone have any suggestions? thanks.....

 

[Bondo]

Re: Problem removing a Bravo II

Ayuh,.... Reattach the trim rams, 'n use 'em to push the drive off...

 

[pabble]

Re: Problem removing a Bravo II

thanks for the quick reply and good idea - unfortunately the trim pump is faulty and I've already removed most of the electronics and batteries (doing a complete refit). I've got a ratchet strap attached 10 feet aft of the stern drive that I can use to provide a continuous pull while I jiggle the drive that gives a good even pull, but even with that I can't get it to move further. Could those jaws on the shifter be frozen in a way that would keep in stuck, or is there anything else that might be frozen I might reach with some penetrating oil? I was able to get some on the drive shaft (I think - hard to see) and let it set with some "pull" on it from the ratchet strap overnight but no luck. do you have any other suggestions?

 

[Bondo]

Re: Problem removing a Bravo II

do you have any other suggestions?

Ayuh,... Put the trim pump back in, 'n hotwire it to work....

Remove all the riggin' ya got hooked to it,...
Place a 2x4 under the drive at the bottom, 'n pick the drive Up, 'n SLAM it down against the wood...

After 15 years, who knows where it's seized...

 

[TilliamWe]

Re: Problem removing a Bravo II

...Could those jaws on the shifter be frozen in a way that would keep in stuck, or is there anything else that might be frozen I might reach with some penetrating oil? ... do you have any other suggestions?

Sure those jaws could be rusted shut, but they aren't big enough to keep you from removing it. More likely the gimbal bearing is rusted to the driveshaft. Hard to get penetrating oil in those places. Bond-o has given you the two methods most likely to work. Mechanical force from the trim rams, or brute strength and gravity!

 

[pabble]

Re: Problem removing a Bravo II

the use of the rams would be expensive because of the pump repair/replacement issue - I may be converting to outboards so would like to avoid that method if possible. but these responses give me some comfort in knowing it's a matter of breaking some frozen part(s) loose rather than overlooking something. I'll keep at it........thanks for the help...

 

[pabble]

Re: Problem removing a Bravo II

success! .....found a piece of oak flooring that was long, strong and thin enough to fit into the space where the shaft was visible - set it against the shaft and hit the end hard with a heavy hammer several times while keeping the pull from the ratchet strap, then went down and followed the advice to "slam" the leg down against a 2x4 and it let go.....

thanks again for the help - very much appreciated!

 

[TilliamWe]

Re: Problem removing a Bravo II

So what all is rusted and seized in there?

 

[pabble]

Re: Problem removing a Bravo II

The shift jaws were not rusted and it doesn't appear that there was a problem with that connection, but the shaft had lots of rust so, from what I can see so far, the resistance was related to the shaft itself. The fact that it let loose after tapping the shaft also makes me think the trouble was there.....I'll be pulling the engine in the next few days and if I discover anything else that looks related I'll post the info.

 

[littlebookworm]

Re: Problem removing a Bravo II

You may very well have to replace most of the parts inside the transom mount, but I think convertiung the boat to outboard drive would be even more probkenatic. That transom is not built to put all the thrust on it rather than on an I/O mount. You might be much better off rebuilding whatever you've got set up right now. The Bravo II is a good solid drive. Just my two cents. Hy

 

[pabble]

Re: Problem removing a Bravo II

This hull, a Zodiac 733 RIB, is a relatively simple conversion to outboards - a full buoyancy aluminum transom extension can be purchased directly from Zodiac but is less expensive to fabricate locally (I have a copy of the factory plans). The transom is the same for all of these 733's coming from the factory, and the transom extension is a factory method for using outboards on this model. I did a similar conversion a few years ago on another 733 with good results.

I'm not sure I will go that route yet....will depend on how much work the engine might need and if I could find a buyer for it and the Bravo II, so will make a decision when I'm a bit further along. The boat has a cabin for weather protection and dry storage that was very useful for a single person on a long voyage (I used it for a circumnavigation), but the engine and its cover are located against the transom and take up almost all the usable deck space outside the small cabin - the engine cover was great to sleep on but these days would like to have more room for an expanding number of grandchildren!