ProV 150 J hard hit

[Damole]

While looking for that perfect fishing spot on Saturday, we hit a submerged stump. The prop didn't "spin" on the hub as expected, instead, the drive shaft coming down from the power head sheared about 8" from the top. It appears to be a shear point in the shaft. Can this shaft be replaced, or does the entire lower unit need to be replaced. Is it possible to have the shaft re-welded. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.<br /><br />Thanks in advance!

 

[rodbolt]

Re: ProV 150 J hard hit

if the lower unit comes apart its a 3 hour operation to replace the shaft. use the drive shaft bearing shim fixture.<br /> take a measurement of the distance from the bearing housing mounting surface to the top of the pinion gear. shim the new shaft to the exact same spec so the orientation of the pinion to the fwd and rev gears stays the same.<br /> by the way, biggest fallacy foisted on boatkind is the ole prop hub will slip,prop hub is a driveline saver myth.<br /> the only reason that hub is there is it allows quicker and cheaper manufacturing.<br /> kinda like the freeze plug myth.<br /> I actually priced the shaft in a 1994 250 yam today at 269 dollars and the rest of the parts came up to about 380 due to an upper bearing seal failure that rusted/pitted the shaft and bearing. qute for repairs is about 800 to replace the shaft, only took an hour to get the propshaft bearing carrier out. took three haeating sessions with the oxy/acetylne.<br /> its kind of a no go on the welding.<br /> what lengthdrive shaft do you need ?

 

[Damole]

Re: ProV 150 J hard hit

Not really sure. This is the first outboard that I have ever worked on, usually I stick to helicopters. The boat actually belongs to a friend(luckily he was driving). The parts catalog only shows one shaft part number for an 86 ProV 150J. How would I know if I need a different length. If I do need a longer shaft, where can I get one. <br />With the shaft being broken I plan to use the key-way for the impeller to take a measurement for shimming. Is there any problem with doing this. Any tips on getting the straight pin out of the bearing carrier?<br />At this point, he is seriously leaning towards having one of our welders at work attempt to weld the shaft. Have you ever heard of anybody being successful at this? <br />Thanks in advance.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: ProV 150 J hard hit

I'm not positive about the metallurgy on those shafts but I would guess its a forging. Your welder could tell you for sure and I think he would tell you the entire shaft should be slowly heated so the welding process doesn't create other localized stress problems. The old trick years ago when buildings were heated with coal, gears, castings, and forgings were stuck into a bed of coals for a long while to pre-heat them. They could then be welded, and then maneuvered in the bed of coals to cool it sufficiently before bringing it back into the air to fully cool. If that process is still used, one would still need to disassemble the lower unit. Some sort of jig would also be needed to perfectly align the two pieces. If there was any misalignment I could envision both power head and lower unit damage.

 

[Ray Neudecker]

Re: ProV 150 J hard hit

If it doesn't have an x in the model number, it should be a 20 inch shaft. Example of a 20 would be ProV150 ELT. A ProV150ELXT would be a 25 inch shaft.<br /> Welding the shaft is possible but not likely practical. I would expect a welder of the quality needed would be more expensive than a used shaft. I have several of the 20 inch ones, but no 25 inch ones. You can contact me at neudecray@hotmail.com if interested in a 20 inch for more info.

 

[Damole]

Re: ProV 150 J hard hit

We went with the welding plan. So far, so good. The engine runs smoother now than it did before the incident. <br />Thanks.