Raised outboard up two holes . . . and WOW!

[Expidia]

Re: Raised outboard up two holes . . . and WOW!

Update: I was getting a little twist to the outboard at high speeds.
So I found an installation doucument that came with the Merc. This manual notes to install with the anti-ventilation plate inline or 1 inch below the bottom of the boat.

I personally found, at least with the design on my Lund's hull, that "so far" it has improved handling when mounted within 1 inch "above" the boat's bottom. So two holes might be a tad high now.

This manual also notes that the little vertical trim tab that hangs off the end of the anti-ventilation plate will have little effect in reducing steering torque if the outboard is mounted above 2 inches from the boats bottom.

I'm only at 1 inch above now so the 20 degree twist to the outboard was probably caused by the motor now being mounted above the bottom and it was probably worse when the motor was trimmed out (up) too far.

Yesterday, I found that at wot when I let go of the wheel the boat would turn to the right. I didn't notice this before because I don't run wot much. So I pulled over to a dock and adjusted that tab a 1/4 of an inch in the direction the motor was turning to compensate for the higher speed wheel pull. It's worked out fine so far, no more pull to right.

The next time I have a friend over to help with holding the bolt heads (oops, had to re-phrase cause almost said he could help me hold my nuts ).

I might try and go down 1 hole of the two I went up. I do notice now if I have the motor trimmed up too high before I hit it from a dead start the prop does not grab as well until I start trimming it down.

I'm also sometimes catching some prop air if I'm riding along at higher speeds and hit choppy water. Trimming down a little helps the prop grab in. Still, my guess is the sweet spot for my rig (with no spray and good handling) is going to be probably only up 1 hole, not two where it is now.

Problem is if I go down one hole again and the spray is back, I'll have to do it all over again for a 3rd time and go back up to the two hole position. At least I now know to use my electric wrench this time around on those long bolt threads.

** I wish this setup had a better height adjustment system. Is there an accessory that I can add that will allow me to adjust the height without having to unbolt each time?

Tip: the book also said not to put any sealer on the bolt's threads when re-installing (only use sealer on the shafts). Glad I used the 4200 not the 5200 sealer or I'd probably never get them back out again!

 

[Dhadley]

Re: Raised outboard up two holes . . . and WOW!

It shouldn't come as a shock to learn a dealer isn't that into rigging. Very, very few are. Even when OE engine manufacturers own a boat company the motors are seldom rigged for max efficiency. The Hydrasport I had up until about a year ago was made / rigged by Hydrasport and the tabs were mounted flush with the hull.

As for the steering torque that tab should take care of it. You may find that between that and trim position you can get a "neutral" steering feel. On race boats we actually spend more time on getting the gearcase to run straight than we do on engine mods.

The easiest accesory for adjusting height is a jackplate. Obviously a hydraulic one is the easiest. Nothing easier than the button. My personal favorite manual plate is the 4 in 1 from Bob's Machine. Lots of adjustment, lots of options.

 

[Expidia]

Re: Raised outboard up two holes . . . and WOW!

It shouldn't come as a shock to learn a dealer isn't that into rigging. Very, very few are. Even when OE engine manufacturers own a boat company the motors are seldom rigged for max efficiency. The Hydrasport I had up until about a year ago was made / rigged by Hydrasport and the tabs were mounted flush with the hull.

As for the steering torque that tab should take care of it. You may find that between that and trim position you can get a "neutral" steering feel. On race boats we actually spend more time on getting the gearcase to run straight than we do on engine mods.

The easiest accesory for adjusting height is a jackplate. Obviously a hydraulic one is the easiest. Nothing easier than the button. My personal favorite manual plate is the 4 in 1 from Bob's Machine. Lots of adjustment, lots of options.

Thx for your response on the jack plate. I checked with Bob's and they suggested I call CMC customer service who makes the units for the correct model for my motor. They have one, but the manual version is about $229-279 depending on the vendor, plus shipping.

Since I've now zeroed it down to a choice of up two holes or up one hole for $229 I guess I'll I'll have get the tools and jack out again and move it down one hole. Once I find the sweet spot, I'd probably never have the need to move it again. Too bad too because that lift is a sweet little unit. All one has to do is turn the center nut with a socket wrench to move the motor up or down. It can be done from inside the boat too! If it was around $99 I would have went for it.

Also, using their jack plate it will add another 32 lbs to the transom and it sets the outboard back 5 1/2 inches both of which will likely deteriorate my hole shot.