Raising the floor of the transom shower

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The transom shower is stored in a fiberglass bin and it doesn't drain well. The drain (on the side) is about 1/4-1/2" above the floor and the bin gets dirty because of it. So I would like to fill the floor and make the throughull the lowest point. I need a suggestion on what to pour. Should I scuff up the gel coat first? The bin is approx 18" x 12".

Thanks
 

Bondo

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Re: Raising the floor of the transom shower

Ayuh,... Probably easier to add a drain at the current low point...

1/2" is a Huge fill....
 

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Re: Raising the floor of the transom shower

It might be a bit less, maybe 1/4". I should have measured. I'll try to tomorrow. I definitely think it'll be easier to pour than to add a throughull.

So, pour in stages over a few days??? Pour what?

Thanks
 

GT1000000

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Re: Raising the floor of the transom shower

If possible, I think the best suggestion has been given by "Bond-o"
Not really sure if either of these would work, but here goes...
For a pour type material you might look into "SeaCast" or a similar product...
You could grind the gel coat down to bare glass and laminate a sheet of resin and CSM coated plywood of the appropriate thickness and tab it in then re-gel...
Another thought is to get a 30 dollar bilge pump and pump it out...:noidea:
That's my 1/2? worth...:)
 

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Re: Raising the floor of the transom shower

Well, once again a picture is worth a thousand words (and my memory betrayed me :facepalm: ).
transom throughole.jpg

So, obviously it's not that bad. I just need a small pour which raise the lowest point so water doesn't sit in the bottom. I'll probably replace that fitting too since the fill will lock in the fitting.

And, yes, I know, I need to clean that bin :facepalm:

Thanks
 

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Re: Raising the floor of the transom shower

So, since I have some time for projects this weekend, and now that I've posted a pic, should I use the SeaCast GT1000000 suggested?

Thanks
 
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Re: Raising the floor of the transom shower

thats a tiny pour and anything will lock in the fitting so i wouldnt add anything that could not be removed. if i was determined then a quart of poly thicked with cabosil would be the way i would go. firstly i would clean then wax or use wax paper the area then plug the hole and add the resin till level then leave to dry. next i would pop the piece out as the wax should stop it bonding. sand the top and paint white then use a marine silicon to put it back in
 

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Re: Raising the floor of the transom shower

thats a tiny pour and anything will lock in the fitting so i wouldnt add anything that could not be removed. if i was determined then a quart of poly thicked with cabosil would be the way i would go. firstly i would clean then wax or use wax paper the area then plug the hole and add the resin till level then leave to dry. next i would pop the piece out as the wax should stop it bonding. sand the top and paint white then use a marine silicon to put it back in
So the marine silicone would be applied to prevent water from sitting under the poly plug? (I'm not sure how removable 5200 is, I have an old rope deck pipe that I can't remove ;) ).

Thanks for the help folks
 

jbcurt00

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Re: Raising the floor of the transom shower

So the marine silicone would be applied to prevent water from sitting under the poly plug? (I'm not sure how removable 5200 is, I have an old rope deck pipe that I can't remove ;) )

3M 4200 isn't as permanent...

But if I'm understanding glenn's plan, it sounds to me like you are too. It allows you to make a generous pour, over poured even, and contour the topside to be exactly like you want it to be, possible even removable at some point to return it to it's factory look & poor functionality.

MarineTex might be a good alternative too, just to fill in the trough. Put down on top of a sheet of waxpaper, then contour & shape the topside to fit & direct the water up to & thru the fitting. Interesting that the water sits IN the trough that was intended to help direct the water towards & thru the fitting :facepalm:


That drain goes DIRECTLY thru the hull? Not attached to a hose of any kind? And the thru hole fitting is on the SIDE of the compartment not in the REAR? If so, to some degree filling just the trough will allow the water to pool elsewhere. Are you wanting to COMPLETELY re-pitch most (all) of the compartment's bottom, to keep everything headed to the drain & have a new higher trough to direct the water out? For that, I might recommend using and epoxy that could be mixed & poured then contoured somewhat. Scuff the bottom of the bin w/ 80g or 120g, wipe down good w/ acetone & mask off your fill line, and pour epoxy up to line.

You could insert a dowel thru the drain, silicone it into the drain, to keep epoxy from making the dowel permanent and have a 3 to 4" piece stick out into the bin. To that end attach a piece of plumbing PVC @ 1.5" in diameter (about the same as your thru hull fitting's outer diameter) and have it running uphill to recreate the trough. Wrapped w/ wax paper or aluminum foil, the PVC could be removed after, and again using silicone to seal the edge where it contacts the bin's sides, keeps the PVC from becoming permanent also.

The dowel has had a recess cut along the 3-4" that protrude into the boat to maximize how close the trough comes to the thru hole.
Untitled_zps2ab44821.jpg


Al that ^^^ supposes that the thru hull fitting is angled down & out, not straight thru the hull. If it's staright, a similar plan w/ just PVC might remake the trough too.


OR:
Just tilt the boat on it's side after ever outing & shake until all the water makes it's way up & into the fitting :D
 
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