Ramp traction?

[GatorMike]

Re: Ramp traction?

I still don't know what boat he is trying to pull out of the water.

Depending on the boat, using the wife's Jeep might be the best choice IMO.

The boat weighs in the neighborhood of 4000 lbs. The jeep would tow it but I imagine the weight of the boat would be as much as the jeep. I prefer to have the added weight and horsepower of the Silverado on the road. Especially since one of the ramps that has given me trouble is aprox 120 miles from home. No doubt the Grand Cherokee with 4wd would do better on the ramp, I am just not ready for the trade off in comfort and control on the highway. I used to have a boat that I towed with a Blazer and the boat outweighed the blazer, makes for a bad ride on longer tows.

 

[H20Rat]

Re: Ramp traction?

if that is truly 4000 pounds of cargo behind the vehicle, the jeep should have no problems with it. Don't let the weight of vehicle vs trailer fool you, otherwise you wouldn't see a semi going down the road! (not to mention a 10k lb cabin cruiser.)

 

[QC]

Re: Ramp traction?

I don't think I saw what would seem to be the simplest quickee to try. Can you increase your tongue weight by loading her more forward? Kind of the opposite of gtochris idea as the truck will be slightly deeper, but it's the easiest thing to try. Move the winch stand slightly forward or just load her a little further up the bow stop. This can make just the difference for me on a slippery ramp.

 

[109jb]

Re: Ramp traction?

If the boat is 4000 pounds I would have absolutely no reservation towing it with the Grand Cherokee. My father has a Grad Cherokee and it tows fantastically and 4K wouldn't be a problem. If I were you I would at least give the Cherokee a try. You might like it.

 

[northernmerc]

Re: Ramp traction?

I would not even consider launching with a 2WD at the boat ramp where we usually launch. Even though part of the ramp is concrete, a section is soft sand. And waves also wash sand in over the concrete. Unless it's a long tow, go with the 4x4 when going to a ramp that you're not sure of.

It's also a good idea to have a chain or a tow rope/strap along. That way you can look for someone with a 4x4 to help out if necessary.

 

[sethjon]

Re: Ramp traction?

Being a Floridian I have been launching boats for 40 years now and over the years have had a few bouts with traction on a slippery boat ramp. Not many but a few. However the truck/boat combo I currently have does not do real good on a steep/slippery ramp. Of the 10 or 12 ramps I commonly use 2 of them seem to give me a problem. The other night I got into a situation I don't care to ever get into again.

I was out with a total greenhorn, we are talking a guy who had never even been in a boat before. We came in through a driving rain storm one that showed no sign of letting up. After 20 minutes of sitting in the truck I elected to go ahead and pull the boat out in the rain. I got the boat loaded on the trailer and started to pull out. The tide was low and the ramp slick as ice. I couldn't trust this guy to pull the old use the boat motor to help take the load off the tow vehicle trick. With the rain and no shovel throwing some sand on the ramp wasn't an option. I told my partner to stand on the bumper for added weight and he looked at me like I was crazy. I did manage to get er done after putting more stress on my tires and transmission than I like to.

This brings me to asking some advice of other boaters. First let me tell you what I am for sure going to do this week, my vehicle is a 2008 Silverado 2wd with the big cab. I don't have a locking rear end but do have a limited slip rear end. I do have a little over 20k miles on it and although for highway purposes could put a few thousand more miles on the tires I think a new set of all weather tires might help. I plan on putting on new rubber this week. Should that help? My second question is, would carrying some kind of traction mats like y'all northerners use for snow & ice help on a slippery ramp? I thought about ordering some to throw in the truck when I know I am going to one of the troublesome ramps. Would traction mats or sand do a better job? Another thing I was thinking about, and I don't know if it would help at all is to carry a second trailer hitch reciever, one of those ones that lowers the hitch height about 4 inches. My toung weight to trailer weight ratio is about right but I thought a lower hitch might put a little more weight on the hitch.

I have two other options and I don't like either one, I could quit going to the ramps that give me trouble or I could try towing with my wifes 4wd Grand Cherokee. I don't like that option because the Cherokee is a lot lighter than the Silverado and has about half the HP. I know the added traction on the ramp would be nice but the trade off on the road would not be worth it in my opinion.

Changing tires is a waste of money. if its slippery all you can do is load extra wt. in the rear of the bed.

 

[jeeperman]

Re: Ramp traction?

More aggressive tires would help. But it is a shame to replace your current tires when they only have 20k on them. Especially if you can buy something for $50 or less to throw down in front of the rear tires when your ready to haul out. And/or as previously posted, apply the parking brake and fool the differential into think both wheels have equal traction.
Limited slips need one tire to spin before it will start to do it's thing. And a limited slip is NOT a locker.

Airing down highway tires would not likely help. On a soft, mushy ramp it might via the extra floatation keeping you from sinking but not give you forward motion.

On a slippery surface of algae, seaweed or snow and ice you want psi (not the air kind) on the ground.
Either more weight, smaller contact patch or more biting edges are needed.
More weight increases the contact patch, but also lessens the psi a little.
More aggressive tread decreases the contact patch thus increasing the psi some.
But if you go with too wide of a new tire, then your increasing the contact patch and lowering the psi again.

Imagine having tractor rear tires on your truck with those v-barred tires. There is a lot of psi on a small contact patch of rubber with two long edges biting into the surface.

 

['96 Charger]

Re: Ramp traction?

If your stock tires are General Ameritracs I'd imagine they're in pretty bad shape by now. Had them on my 06 Sierra and replaced them at 8000 miles. Just didn't trust them. On tires I highly recomend the Bridgestone Dueler h/l. Good hwy manners and good traction too. For a lower priced tire the American Prospector SUV is a good choice. Also been inpressed with Firestone Destination a/t.

 

[captkevin]

Re: Ramp traction?

300 to 400# of sand over the rear axle will solve all your problems. Used to tow a 4200# Rinker 232 with a 2 wheel dodge ram. Put 420# of sand in the back & kept the gas tank full when launching & it did fine.

 

[northernmerc]

Re: Ramp traction?

Limited slips need one tire to spin before it will start to do it's thing. And a limited slip is NOT a locker.

If this is like my 04 GMC, it is a form of locker, not a limited slip. GM went to the Gov Loc (sp?) many years ago. Although their nickname is "Gov Bomb," they are very strong and nearly indestructible. I've seen them take prolonged severe off road abuse without failure.

That said, there's no substitute for a 4x4.

 

[krakatoa]

Re: Ramp traction?

2008 Silverado Truck slippering? You have to change the part behind the wheel, that will work...

 

[GatorMike]

Re: Ramp traction?

Limited slips need one tire to spin before it will start to do it's thing. And a limited slip is NOT a locker.

Sorry that was my mistake. I checked the option codes like Gtochris said and it is a G80 differential. Out of curiosity I checked the manufacturers web site and the G80 option is locking not limited slip.

 

[bigdee]

Re: Ramp traction?

weight distribution a 2wd pu is lousy....I can't pull my boat out with a full size 2wd F-150 but it is a piece of cake with my 2wd blazer. Try 500# placed over the axle and see if that helps....if it does you can remove some of the weight till you get it right.

 

[jeeperman]

Re: Ramp traction?

Sorry that was my mistake. I checked the option codes like Gtochris said and it is a G80 differential. Out of curiosity I checked the manufacturers web site and the G80 option is locking not limited slip.

Check out this video and imagine the rollers under the right wheels as a slimey boat ramp.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8nAbg5suFw&feature=player_embedded
GM calls the G80 option a locking differential. Well, yes, it locks after one wheel spins a few times.
A true locker, such as a Detroit Locker is locked from the git-go, not after one wheels spins several times.
It is obviously better than the conventional limited slip or positraction type diffs for sure.

 

[gtochris]

Re: Ramp traction?

.
It is obviously better than the conventional limited slip or positraction type diffs for sure.

I tend to think all limited slip differentials are the same, GM, Ford, and Chrysler along with the foreign makers.

1 wheel is always powered and when that looses traction, the differential "locks" both wheels together temporarly. A locking can be either with a in cab button like found on some off road packages, and a "posi" is both always locked- kinda skids around turns some.

I worked for GM when they started pushing the "G80" which is nothing more then the option code, they would set up a roller test with a NON limited slip F150 for example and of course the GM would pull right up. Had the ford been optioned with the factory Limited slip (which I do find less common on Ford vehicles compared to GM) it would have driven up the ramp as well as the GM.

2wd pickups have ALWAYS been at a weight distribution disadvantage over vans and SUV's, so the problem could be that either the rear wheels are in some slippery stuff, the tongue weight is not enough at the moment (can happen when cresting a ramp with dual axles), or any combination.

I vote for the tongue extension as I feel it would keep the TV wheels further from the slick stuff and possibly add more weight due to the leverage effect.

Either way, even with a 4x4 Tahoe at my disposal and our ramp being great and able to use 2wd 99% of the time, I know of some ramps I wouldnt attempt to pull a jon boat up without 4x4.

 

[642mx]

Re: Ramp traction?

I tend to think all limited slip differentials are the same, GM, Ford, and Chrysler along with the foreign makers.

1 wheel is always powered and when that looses traction, the differential "locks" both wheels together temporarly. A locking can be either with a in cab button like found on some off road packages, and a "posi" is both always locked- kinda skids around turns some.

They do all kind of work the same, but the Tundra is a little different. The Tundra uses a straight open rear differential. They use the rear brakes to make the rear end a limited slip. They have a button on the dash to turn on ALSD (auto limited slip).

If you spin the tires in normal traction control mode, the truck cuts power and transfers power back and forth to each rear tire. This keeps the truck straight and moving forward.

If you turn on ALSD, the brakes drag equally with no power loss and the truck acts like it has a locked rear end.

Both modes have there purpose. Using ALSD is perfect for drag racing or a smokey burnout and some off-road situations. Normal Trac Control is nice for boat ramps so it doesn't kick the rear end sideways on the ramp.

 

[RicMic]

Re: Ramp traction?

Before we get off any further into the inner workings of differentials....several people have said to put weight OVER the rear axel and yes that will help, BUT putting the weight BEHIND the rear axel mutiplies the advantage by transferring weight from in front of the axel. The further you put the weight to the rear, the better.

 

[kenmyfam]

Re: Ramp traction?

No one else said it so I will ---- Deflate your tires to around 20 PSI - then with an electric pump re-inflate befor hitting the road. --- works wonders!

Or - if the ramp is wide enough pull the truck and trailer up diagonally. This lowers the effective angle of the ramp.

Both work well.

I think it was mentioned already a couple of times
Still a good idea though.

 

[dockwrecker]

Re: Ramp traction?

I have never had to put my Avalanche into 4 wheel to retrieve my 6200 lb boat/trailer. I have never had to drop air pressures, and regardless how steep the ramp (Lake Powell Bullfrog users jump in here) there's no subsitution for proper tongue weight and good tires. True I always retrieve from a concrete ramp. But I think we're dealing with a basic tongue weight issue here and maybe the need for a couple of tube sand bags in the back of the bed near the tailgate at worst. If your boat/trailer is heavier than 4000 lbs and the end of your ramp is in the sand, it's going to go badly. If your ramp isn't concrete all the way to your launch point, your wife's Jeep is probably the ticket out.

 

[paultjohnson]

Re: Ramp traction?

Before we get off any further into the inner workings of differentials....several people have said to put weight OVER the rear axel and yes that will help, BUT putting the weight BEHIND the rear axel mutiplies the advantage by transferring weight from in front of the axel. The further you put the weight to the rear, the better.

Good point since he really doesnt have to worry about steering.in that short pull