Rebuilding Deck, First timer

[Jack2048]

I am starting the rebuild of my deck. A few softspots and the windscreen hard to close because the deck is not supporting the console prompted me to do this work.
I had always wondered why my tank was hard to fill, always having to hold the gas nozzle and hold the trigger at the slowest rate.

Clearly, whomever put my boat together didn't really care what he was doing.

 

[Woodonglass]

Uhmm you have a LOT more issues than just the deck. If you core sample the Motor Mounts, Stringers and Transom I'm pretty sure you'll find them to be bad as well. What yr. and MFG is this boat??

 

[Jack2048]

Motor Mounts, and Transom I'm pretty sure you'll find them to be bad as well.

I haven't pulled any of the deck in the engine area. So, I don't know about that yet.

Stringers

Oh, yeah, totally shot. That's why the windscreen is too close together and it is hard to close the hinged window , have to push the windshield apart.
The console is not being supported due to the rot.

What yr. and MFG is this boat??

1994 Caravelle Interceptor.

23' Bowrider.

 

[tpenfield]

So, does that mean you will be replacing the stringers and other parts of the structure? How about the transom?

 

[Jack2048]

So, does that mean you will be replacing the stringers

Yes. When I said I was redoing the deck, I meant to include the stringers.

and other parts of the structure?

??

How about the transom?

So far, engine mounts and all seem solid. I have just started this teardown and have not gotten into that area.

 

[Scott Danforth]

boats rot from the keel up. first to get wet and rot is the transom, followed by stringers, motor mounts, bulkheads, and lastly the deck/sole

pull the motor, build a cradle, cut everything out, grind for 2 days, build back up, install motor, align, install drive and go boating

 

[Jack2048]

boats rot from the keel up.

It is interesting that in my case, what I have observed is that the further back I go the better shape things are in. The wood at the front is deteriorated almost to dirt. The bulkhead between bilge and the "living quarters" is in excellent shape.

I'll know more as I get into it.

 

[Skipper Sean]

No Title

Pull a motor mount bolt out and make sure it don?t look like this with wet nasty wood in the threads!

 

[Jack2048]

Pull a motor mount bolt out and make sure it don’t look like this with wet nasty wood in the threads!

Thanks for the pic. That won't work in my case. A few years back I pulled the engine for a rebuild. Replaced the lag bolts w/new ones. When I was working back there, everything was really solid.

I will be pulling the engine cover, then the decking in the bilge area. That should give me access to check out the engine mounts from the inside.

 

[Skipper Sean]

Good luck I hope she is solid for ya there! I?m going to be knee deep into transom stringers and deck on mine! After buying this bigger boat it reminds me how much I love my simple little aluminum Jon Boat!

 

[Jack2048]

Yeah, thanks. I would have to build a special rig to pull the engine. A friend had a garage that I used the first time. That favor / access is used up. But that is another story.

I saw your quote "Digging out waterlogged foam is no..."

I have read of people tossing in old foam when re-foaming under the deck. Ever re-use your old foam?

 

[Skipper Sean]

I have read of people tossing in old foam when re-foaming under the deck. Ever re-use your old foam?
[/QUOTE]
No I haven?t I guess you could. I am thinking of using sheet foam insulation cut to fit and then the pourable expansion foam on top as some of the restoration guys have done on here.

 

[tpenfield]

Typically the pour-in foam is structural. so, in re-building the boat, you will want to use pour-in foam to attain the same amount of structural strength. If you replace the pour-in foam with sheet foam, the boat will not be as strong.

 

[Scott Danforth]

I use a cup-brush in the drill and a vacuum to remove the foam.

foam is cheap, and works best as one continuous mass, and as Ted mentioned, foam is structural. trying to save $4 worth of foam when doing a $4000 hull restoration is like stepping over a $50 bill to pick up a nickle

 

[kcassells]

Typically the pour-in foam is structural. so, in re-building the boat, you will want to use pour-in foam to attain the same amount of structural strength. If you replace the pour-in foam with sheet foam, the boat will not be as strong.

I was more under the impression that 2# foam is not really structural but does add a very solid base to the underside of the decking. In addition I thought that 4# foam if in use by the boat mfg was a structural component. Just wondering.

 

[kcon]

So two part pour foam provides structure? Interesting, good to know.

 

[Jack2048]

So two part pour foam provides structure? Interesting, good to know.

Not necessarily. Depends on the foam weight. There is 2#, 4#, 8#, 16#, etc. When you get up to 8# & 16#, that is very hard. You have go to at least 4# to get anything structural.

The "US Composites" site states:

• Our 2LB density marine foam is recommended for void filling in nonstructural applications. This product can be poured underneath decks and inside cavities where a lightweight flotation foam is needed to provide buoyancy. This foam has been tested in accordance with U.S. Coast Guard Regulation # 33 CFR 183.114 . This foam is approximately 95-98% closed cell which resists absorbing water, however continuous water submersion can eventually lead to loss of buoyancy over a period of years
• This 4LB density foam is suited well for most flotation applications that require more support than the 2LB offers. This foam is recommended to be used when supporting gas tanks and some deck areas. Choose this density if you feel that the foam will be required to withstand minor to moderate loads.
• This 8LB density foam is extremely hard and rigid, like that of a soft wood. Your fingernail can penetrate its skin, however it cannot be dented by hand. Uses include casting, carving, sculpting, sign making as well as areas where an extremely durable and rigid foam is needed for support
• This 16LB density foam is essentially as hard as a rock, you would need a hammer in order to make any dents in this product. Can be used for sculpting or the casting of objects that require superior toughness and strength.

Considering the crap I pulled out, that was not structural in any way. Well, ok, it was dense enough I could stand on it but I don't think it really contributed to structural integrity.

I was just going to replace w/the 2# unless someone says otherwise.

 

[tpenfield]

I was more under the impression that 2# foam is not really structural but does add a very solid base to the underside of the decking. In addition I thought that 4# foam if in use by the boat mfg was a structural component. Just wondering.

The 2#/Cu ft foam is not as dense (obviously), but it is plenty rigid and will stiffen up the hull structure. Maybe not as good as the 4# variety, but it will certainly make a noticable difference.

 

[kcassells]

2# is the most common used.

 

[Jack2048]

2# is the most common used.

Good to know! That's what I inferred from the description of 2# foam where the Coast Guard regs were cited.