Rebuilding Deck, First timer

[Dennischaves]

I filled everthing below my deck with #2 foam and it made a big diffrence
The deck feels very solid now when you walk on it
Before the foam it felt slightly hollow
Also if you tap on the hull where the foam is it sounds much more solid than without it

 

[Jack2048]

I filled everthing below my deck with #2 foam and it made a big diffrence
The deck feels very solid now when you walk on it

So, did you pour in enough foam to fill the void and then trimmed it down? Does the foam make contact with the bottom of the deck and that's why it so much more solid?

 

[Dennischaves]

After I got the deck installed and all tabbed in
I drilled 2" holes in the deck about every foot or so
And just kept pouring foam in until it filled every void
And came back out through the 2" hole
I did my best to get everything filled,took 5 of the #2 gallon kits
When i poured the fosm in it goes right to the bottom and expands up
I mixed 1qt batches to avoid wasting as you dont get much working time

 

[Jack2048]

After I got the deck installed and all tabbed in
I drilled 2" holes in the deck about every foot or so

I have seen others, ie FriscoBoater on YouTube in Texas, do deck first then fill.

Why? Why not fill, trim to fit, then lay down decking?

And just kept pouring foam in until it filled every void
And came back out through the 2" hole

How did you keep it from over filling / buckling the deck in other areas?

I did my best to get everything filled,took 5 of the #2 gallon kits

How big is your boat?

 

[Dennischaves]

19' long .....im sorry i made an error
It was 4 of the one gallon kits ...just checked the receipt

 

[tpenfield]

The process of doing the foam after the deck is installed is so that the expanding foam makes contact on all sides of the 'chambers' that the hull, stringers and deck form. The foam is highly adhesive and will stick to everything it comes in contact with, bonding all of the hull together once it cures to a hard, lightweight mass.

Your boat will be much stronger and much more rigid so it will have a solid feel to it and the hull will not flex as much, so you will avoid stress cracks in the hull.

 

[Jack2048]

Your boat will be much stronger and much more rigid so it will have a solid feel to it and the hull will not flex as much, so you will avoid stress cracks in the hull.

Got it, thanks.

 

[Jack2048]

No Title

Today I removed decking from the engine compartment. I wanted to see how the bile wall is holding up. The wood is solid, but black.
It's raining so I had to stop which gives me time to figure out my step.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Black is mold. You can go thru many steps of saturating the wood with EG to kill the mold, then dry it out (taking days if not weeks).....or simply cut out, grind and replace (taking hours)

 

[Jack2048]

Black is mold. You can go thru many steps of saturating the wood with EG to kill the mold, then dry it out (taking days if not weeks)..

"EG" ?

It is the start of winter here so I have plenty of time for that.

[/QUOTE]...or simply cut out, grind and replace (taking hours)[/QUOTE]
Well, the trick is getting the engine out of the way. I would have to build a rig and buy a come-a-long or something.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Ethylene Glycol.

Have tried it, can honestly tell you the easiest and fastest path is the rip out and go

 

[Jack2048]

Ethylene Glycol.

Have tried it, can honestly tell you the easiest and fastest path is the rip out and go

In my case, I don't know that I can do it w/the engine in place. Getting it out requires equipment I don't have. Just another can of worms.

 

[Woodonglass]

defenderjim,

We all understand you wanting to restore your boat as quickly and inexpensively as possible. That said, this forum is full of posts that are very similar to yours. The members here have pretty much ALL Been there done that. Every shortcut and cost saving technique has be either tried or discussed and unfortunately NONE of them have been successful. In the long run it is YOUR Boat and your can do with it as you see fit. All the advice you've been given to date IS sound and if followed will yield a Better Than New Boat. Please don't take this the wrong way. I'm just trying to help you understand how all the Members that are posting their advice truly are trying to help you avoid any and all pitfalls that we have discovered because we didn't ask questions FIRST!!!

 

[Jack2048]

Woodonglass,

I appreciate all the great advice and feedback I have been getting here. I know people are trying to help, it is appreciated.
I think what prompted your last response was just me thinking out load about how to handle the next step. I'll do a better job of filtering my posts.

 

[Dennischaves]

"The fastest wat to fix something is the right way"
Cut it all out and put new wood in
As for getting your motor out ...work with what you have
Cement 2 4"x4"s in the ground spaced far enough apart for your boat to fir between then then fun a 2"x10" (or whatever you see fit) across the tops of them and hoist your motor up ...im using comealong to hoist my motor
And when the motor is up simply pull the boat from under it drop it on a pallet and cover it and your DONE!
You can build that for under $40 and a couple hours time
And when your done sawzall them at the ground

 

[Skipper Sean]

@defenderjim,
The best way to do this is the right way. Folks here are giving out the best advice you can get. It may take you more time and money but when your done you will have a structurally sound boat you can be proud of plus have the piece of mind of knowing your Boat can handle almost any water condition out there safely. I have already changed my rebuild plans a couple of times to do things better from information given to me from forum members here. Trust me I didn?t want to yank my motor out either but doing things one time right is cheaper than doing it twice. I have been restoring Brass Era cars for 30 years and one shortcut can create more work down the road and always does. But don’t sweat it it will all come together for you. Research this forum, come up with a set of goals to reach for each time you get a chance to work on the project, come up with a materials list and coordinate that list with what you want to get done so that you have what you need for every work session. Because it really kills your progress if you have to run around to get things in the middle of working on it. Have your materials waiting then you run right through it.

 

[tpenfield]

Yup, . . . EG = Ethylene Glycol . . . aka automotive (green) antifreeze. It is like chemotherapy for wood. Toxic . . .

Since it requires a lot of time, professional restoration shops just cut the black wood out, rather than trying to save it. IF you are dealing with some isolated spots or a blackened area that is just starting into an otherwise good portion of the structure, then it would be a good approach. If not . . . then cut away.

 

[Scott Danforth]

In my case, I don't know that I can do it w/the engine in place. Getting it out requires equipment I don't have. Just another can of worms.

You have to pull the drive anyway to re-align the motor. Take 20 minutes more and pull the motor. It will save you hundreds of hours trying to work around it.

$30 worth of 2x4's and a come-along and you have a gantry.

We all have been there....we understand the reluctance you have to pulling the motor. However in the end, that is the best route for the quickest and proper restoration