rectifier disconected

[tblshur]

would it be a bad idea to disconnect a bad rectifier and run my boat . until i get a new rectifier. 1 to 2 wks. i have a 3 bank charger so no problem with keeping battery charged . j140tlcte 83 model. thanks for your help.also are the cdi regulator/rectifier durable and work good.

 

[Will Bark]

Why disconnect it? If it's not working it's not working. Others will chime in but I ran mine for 3 or 4 trips not working until I put new one in.

 

[tblshur]

thanks Will Bark for your responce my rectifier is shorted and drains the battery.:joyous:

 

[daselbee]

disconnect it. no problem.

 

[tblshur]

thanks daselbee , i can fish till i get a new one . i want to try a cdi reg/rectifier combo. :joyous:

 

[Joe Reeves]

would it be a bad idea to disconnect a bad rectifier and run my boat . until i get a new rectifier. 1 to 2 wks.

Keep in mind that the flywheel magnets swing past the stator coils are still generating power with nowhere to go. This results in having the stator risk a overheating situation. Get that new rectifier as soon as possible.... you do not want the stator to fail also.

 

[daselbee]

Yes it still generates, but into an open circuit. No current flows, so no heat or power dissipation will occur. Stator coils REALLY heat up when there is TOO MUCH load; too much current flowing, as in the case of his shorted rectifier, or as in the case of a worn out sulfated battery that will not take a charge.
The charging system works and works, but cannot get the charge up, and everything overheats.

Disconnecting the rectifier....and be sure you understand, that means yellows AND the red one, will not hurt anything.

 

[gm280]

If you do disconnect the rectifier, make sure those wires are insolated as to not touch each other or ground (engine block). Electrical tape would solve that but make sure as the flywheel spins it does send the wires into the moving parts and short... And I don't see anyway for the stator to heat up if there isn't a completed circuit. Meaning no current flow so no heat! There will be a voltage that can be read with a volt meter, but without current going to anything it is merely open circuit voltage.

 

[WernerF]

Yes it still generates, but into an open circuit. No current flows, so no heat or power dissipation will occur. Stator coils REALLY heat up when there is TOO MUCH load; too much current flowing, as in the case of his shorted rectifier, or as in the case of a worn out sulfated battery that will not take a charge.

The current in the copper winding is one source of heat in the stator, but there is a second. The iron core material is constantly magnetized north and south by the flying magnets what dissipates some energy, because the core material is not perfect. At high rpm these hysteresis losses become dominant. When the stator is connected, the current will weaken the magnetic field in the core (Lenz's law) and so reduce the hysteresis loss. In fact shorting the stator would result in a cooler stator at high rpm. The current would not be excessive, because only two coils are magnetized at a time and the others act as series inductance limiting the current.
BTW the regulators do short the stator coils intermittently for reducing charge.

The worst thing for the stator is a rectifier (or regulator) with just one shorted diode. Then the current has a considerable DC-content which saturates the core. The series inductors do not work anymore and the current becomes excessive.

 

[oldcatamount]

Are you sure that's how you spell "hysteresis"?:joyous:

 

[V153]

Made me hysteresisical just reading it ...

 

[tblshur]

you guys are great thanks for all responces. its really good to see some of you back on this site that i had missed for awhile. maybe i could connect a small light across the stator, yellow wires, to keep a little load on it? thanks again very much:joyous:

 

[boobie]

Try it and let us know what happens But I guess its the same thing as in your house when you don't have anything plugged into a wall socket.