Rectifier/Regulator Fire!

Jagman1967

Recruit
Joined
Sep 19, 2004
Messages
1
My last drive of the year using my 1988 Evinrude 175 V-6 outboard resulted in a fire in the Rectifier/regulator assembly. It is thoughfully located under the flywheel, so I have to pull the flywheel to replace it, unless the bolts are really short. Please advise:<br /><br />In order to pull the flywheel, I need to stop it from turning:<br /><br />A) Can I wedge a large screwdriver between the flywheel teeth and the cast extension on the head that the timing arrow mounts? or will I break it off.<br /><br />B) Do rectifier/regulators spontaneously combust, or is there a problem upstream somewhere that also needs correction?<br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Tom H.
 

dick

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Oct 4, 2001
Messages
433
Re: Rectifier/Regulator Fire!

You should be able to rent a flywheel holder from a auto parts store this is the best way to hold it, you will also need a puller to remove the flywheel( balancer type puller).Don't try to wedge it, it will break.<br /><br />And yes the do. But I would check the boat and engine wiring for any problems such as a short, this could cause yur problem too.<br />Oh and don't forget the battery, a bad battery can cause melt downs.
 

Scaaty

Vice Admiral
Joined
May 31, 2004
Messages
5,180
Re: Rectifier/Regulator Fire!

Get a air compressor and a impact wrench and it will pop that nut easy, and that flywheel needs a puller or it will crack (whack it easy with a heavy sledge to break it loose)
 

R.Johnson

Rear Admiral
Joined
Sep 24, 2003
Messages
4,446
Re: Rectifier/Regulator Fire!

You can take the flywheel nut off with a air impact wrench, then install a proper flywheel puller, and also pull the flywheel with a impact wrench. You will need a flywheel holding wrench to reinstall, and torque the flywheel. Here is a break down of the tool's you will need. 1-5/16 socket, most are 3/4 in. drive so you will need a 3/4 to 1/2 in. reducer. If not a impact wrench, you will need a breaker bar, flywheel wrench, (snap-on, nothing else is worth the effort) fly wheel puller, torque wrench. As for the flywheel puller bolts' That wheel is torqued down to 150 ft. lbs. those zinc plated bolt's at Home Depot won't handle that. I know this paints a dim picture of several hundred dollars worth of tools, but that flywheel is a $600 + item. Don't pound, pry, or wedge on it. That voltage regulator is another $200+ item, plus what ever it takes to find what caused the proplem. You may well be replacing a stator here also. Looking this post over, I know it sounds rough, and that is not my intent. We all like to do things our selves, and save money. I've spent my life at it. In this situation, I think caution is the best advise.
 

seahorse5

Rear Admiral
Joined
Jan 24, 2002
Messages
4,698
Re: Rectifier/Regulator Fire!

Most of the time a catastrophic regulator failure is due to an intermittent connection that results in voltage spikes, or severe engine overheat problems that affect the water cooled regulator.<br /><br />Wing nuts on the battery most of the time are tightened with fingers, causing intermittent connections. That is still being done even after years of factory literature and owners manuals saying not to use wing nuts, but lockwashers and hex nuts. If an open circuit like turning a battery switch off while the motor is running can do the same thing, as can a reverse polarity problem from hooking up a battery backwards.<br /><br />You may also find that the black stator coil insulation has melted and the stator should be replaced also. Check for loose magnets or damaged magnets under the flywheel. There are epoxy kits and magnet kits available.<br /><br />Use the correct tools and follow the service manual to do the job correctly.
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: Rectifier/Regulator Fire!

hello<br /> on pulling the flywheel. use grade 8 5/16 fine thread bolts. use thick flat washers under the bolt heads. use a scale to make sure the puller is parralel to the flywhell all the way around. use the snap-on flywheel holder. leave the nut on the crank end :) :) . I had a 200 looper that when it finally let go it jumped up and skinned some hide :) :) .<br /> I use an impact to remove the nut when possible.<br />if the flywheel holder or socket slips you may find yourself jumping out of the boat :) :) .<br /> good luck and follow the rest of the advice. also double check your cooling system as well as all battery and ground connections.
 

Snowdrggn

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 16, 2004
Messages
173
Re: Rectifier/Regulator Fire!

Another suggestion.....<br />When tightening the puller bolt (big one in the middle of the puller) to pull the flywheel, don't apply excessise torque to it. Stop and give give the end of the puller bolt a sharp blow with a hammer (1 lb ball peen) then contiune tightening the bolt. This will help get the flywheel to "pop" off the taper using less force from the puller and reduce the risk of damage to the flywheel/crankshaft/puller/knuckles.
 

ciolekr

Cadet
Joined
Sep 22, 2004
Messages
16
Re: Rectifier/Regulator Fire!

Originally posted by Tom H.:<br /> My last drive of the year using my 1988 Evinrude 175 V-6 outboard resulted in a fire in the Rectifier/regulator assembly. It is thoughfully located under the flywheel, so I have to pull the flywheel to replace it, unless the bolts are really short. Please advise:<br /><br />In order to pull the flywheel, I need to stop it from turning:<br /><br />A) Can I wedge a large screwdriver between the flywheel teeth and the cast extension on the head that the timing arrow mounts? or will I break it off.<br /><br />B) Do rectifier/regulators spontaneously combust, or is there a problem upstream somewhere that also needs correction?<br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Tom H.
 

ciolekr

Cadet
Joined
Sep 22, 2004
Messages
16
Re: Rectifier/Regulator Fire!

Originally posted by Tom H.:<br /> My last drive of the year using my 1988 Evinrude 175 V-6 outboard resulted in a fire in the Rectifier/regulator assembly. It is thoughfully located under the flywheel, so I have to pull the flywheel to replace it, unless the bolts are really short. Please advise:<br /><br />In order to pull the flywheel, I need to stop it from turning:<br /><br />A) Can I wedge a large screwdriver between the flywheel teeth and the cast extension on the head that the timing arrow mounts? or will I break it off.<br /><br />B) Do rectifier/regulators spontaneously combust, or is there a problem upstream somewhere that also needs correction?<br /><br />Thanks,<br /><br />Tom H.
Hey Tom,one of my first experiences with out boards I used the battary switch while the motor was running , Yup i blew my rectifyer it burnt and smelled awfull.
 
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