Red engine motor year mystery

MalibuMike

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The Parker I have is a 2520 built in 1997. It has a Volvo Penta 5.7 Gi-F . The receipts going back to 2015 and the hour meter state 650 hours and it seems accurate. The engine is painted red and has a vortex intake manifold and ( I think ) a HVS ignition because of the "crab" shaped flat distributer cap. I thought the engine would have been installed from the factory but several things indicate something different. One site states that "Engines produced after 2000 were once again painted red" and "Between 1993 and 1998 Volvo produced their engines in partnership with OMC. These engines were painted in dark charcoal."
I have not been able to decode the serial number 4012191678 or prod. number 3889311
Maybe someone dropped in a whole new engine in the 2000's then didn't run it much?
I've used this link but still cant figure out the year.
Any way too figure out the year on this motor?
 

bruceb58

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Have a picture of the engine? Where is the raw water pump mounted?

What makes you think its a Gi-F?
 

MalibuMike

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QBhoy

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Here is my theory on it.
Originally it was a black 1997 VP GL carb or GLi tbi engine.
Something happened to that, then someone has made it a hybrid, perhaps using the black block from the GL(I) and top end and running gear and ecu etc from a red Gi Mpi. Likely about 280hp if it’s GLi spec.
 

Lou C

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Interesting, yes the joint venture engines (1994-1998, for OMC, up to 99 for Volvo) were actually painted OMC Charcoal grey like my Cobra. As long as you can get the right parts, its not an issue, but good to know what you have.
 

MalibuMike

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I think you’re right based on this photo. It looks like there is black paint that was hidden and then red paint over it. I’m assuming the original red blocks would’ve been painted in the section and not show black.
 

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MalibuMike

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So now that it seems like I might have a Franken motor, I’m hoping that the spark plug up at .06 is good with this vortec Intake and hvs ignition.
 

QBhoy

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So now that it seems like I might have a Franken motor, I’m hoping that the spark plug up at .06 is good with this vortec Intake and hvs ignition.
I’d suggest if it has the flat hvs Diz cap...you shouldn’t be able to gap the plugs..should be platinum at least, but iridium more suitably
 

MalibuMike

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Can you suggest a platinum if I’m going to swap out the ones I just purchased and gapped up?
 

QBhoy

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Can you suggest a platinum if I’m going to swap out the ones I just purchased and gapped up?
To be honest, I’m a little reluctant to advise you for sure, until you know exactly what engine you’ve got.
But I do know that most, if not all Mpi versions of this engine call for AC delco “41-101, replaces AC 41-993” or the NGK equivalent. I use the latter.
but find out what you have first maybe.
 

MalibuMike

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To be honest, I’m a little reluctant to advise you for sure, until you know exactly what engine you’ve got.
But I do know that most, if not all Mpi versions of this engine call for AC delco “41-101, replaces AC 41-993” or the NGK equivalent. I use the latter.
but find out what you have first maybe.
Wold the block have a stamp that indicates what year it was made?
 

QBhoy

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Wold the block have a stamp that indicates what year it was made?
It might have one down near the starter motor. But you might have a 97 block with a 2000’s and something ignition and injection system
 

Lou C

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I think you’re right based on this photo. It looks like there is black paint that was hidden and then red paint over it. I’m assuming the original red blocks would’ve been painted in the section and not show black.
The Volvos weren’t black they were a charcoal grey just like my OMC. However Mercrusiers and new and reman GM marine engines were black.
 

QBhoy

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The Volvos weren’t black they were a charcoal grey just like my OMC. However Mercrusiers and new and reman GM marine engines were black.
Black enough looking to me at least
 

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Lou C

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Black enough looking to me at least
Om my engine when I did the top end overhaul I painted the new heads etc with OMC charcoal grey and the new Barr exhaust I just left black. You can definitely see the difference. That said they might have used different shades of the charcoal grey.
 

bruceb58

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That is definitely not the original engine. Original engine had a different raw water pump and V-belts vs your serpentine belt. Original raw water pump was belt driven.

Your original engine was a charcoal grey...not black. It's dark but it is not black. Anyone who has actually owned a Volvo of that vintage knows this. Mine is also charcoal grey.
 

Lou C

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here are some pix, this is the OMC Charcoal Grey, in the last pic the exhaust is Barr black, in the last pic you can see how under certain lighting conditions the grey and black look similar but are not the same.
I would not worry too much about the engine change, because if you look at sellers of both new and reman engines they are always painted black. So maybe a Volvo shop changed the engine under warrantee and sprayed their red over the black. The main thing is it runs well, and has closed cooling! As long as it has good compression, does not burn oil and doesn't make odd noises I would not worry one bit. You caught that exhaust leak just in time, judging by the pix of the exhaust valves. All you have to do is get on a schedule of changing those manifolds & elbows every 5-7 years. And based on my good experience in salt water with Barr, you don't have to spend the $$$ for Volvo OE, I think Barr is better than GLM for sure and probably better than Sierra. You want your exhaust valves to look like my last pic, this is from when I changed the manifolds back in '11. Note no corrosion on the exhaust valves, nice grey color, etc. The rust on the surface of the cyl head is just from the exhaust manifold gasket trapping moisture against the head. This boat is in a very damp climate you are always fighting corrosion either from salt air on the mooring, or in storage due to condensation.
PS
when I repaint engine parts now, I don't bother with the spray paint as its not thick enough to really prevent corrosion. I did an experiment on the Barr manifolds. Installed them with the original paint and see how they hold up. Well even just with condensation they started to rust the next spring. So, I got a can of Rustoleum primer and black paint and brushed on primer and 2 coats of black. Not a spec of rust on them 2 seasons later. So in the future any new or reman engine I install, will get a brush coat of Rustoleum. I hate rust! This is especially important on the steel oil pans on the older V6s and V8s still use the steel pan and on the steel timing covers.
I sprayed the pan on mine with Boeshield/Corrosion X every few years. It is still in very good shape and its common for these to rot out.
If yours has a steel oil pan (most likely) start spraying it now....

I had the same issue with the anti fouling paint on the outdrive. The sprays do not work! I use that only on the transom mount where you can't reach with a brush. Otherwise, 2 brushed on coats of Trilux II keeps it pretty free of growth.
 

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MalibuMike

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All right! Found some different tags that may give more clues to exactly what I have. I think half the reasons why I’ve asked so many questions about spark plugs and gaps etc. is because I originally thought I had a 1997 Gi-f. Here are pictures of the engine cover, and a few other tags that maybe give clues as to what I have. The one tag that says it is a GXI is sitting on the alternator bracket so who knows if that is the year that somebody put on new heads and a new intake manifold? With this indicates that the plastic cover saying G.I. is from a different year?
 

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