Red's Lund Pro V 1800 DLX rebuild, rewire and remodel

[redarndt]

First day

 

[jbcurt00]

Where abouts are ya Red?

May be relavent when the fuel tank damage comes up:
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...ull-repair/10111999-1990-lund-pro-v-fuel-tank

From the looks of the carpet, the deck (or hatch) above the tank has been pulled and recarpeted more recently then the rest..

 

[redarndt]

Where abouts are ya Red?

May be relavent when the fuel tank damage comes up:
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...ro-v-fuel-tank

From the looks of the carpet, the deck (or hatch) above the tank has been pulled and recarpeted more recently then the rest..

I'm from the Rochester, MN area. Fish the Mississippi River a lot and spend some time in Canada with this boat.

I'm getting a quote on a custom aluminum tank. I'm having them quote a replica of the current poly tank as well as a longer one for some added capacity.

 

[jbcurt00]

Well, high heat probably didnt contribute to the tank damage...

 

[redarndt]

Well, high heat probably didnt contribute to the tank damage...

With the tank top being slanted like it is, I think it throws off the sending unit/tank float. It is crooked in the tank now. It's always been erratic.

 

[jbcurt00]

The top isnt supposed to have that dip in it, esp not 1 thats off center. You bet it'd throw the fuel sending units measurements off.

W the staining, it would appear water has sat on tol of the tank for a while, a good long while.

In MN, freezing water expanding might deflect the plastic I suppose.

Based on that, I'd suggest core sampling a good bit of the float foam as I described in that topic
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...und-pro-v-floatation-foam-water-logged-or-not

 

[redarndt]

Day 2 took me about 3 hours just to remove the bow pieces. A combination of rusted bolts and removing the hatches, wiring, etc took way longer than expected.

I'm debating whether I want to move my livewell back by the motor and build repurpose the space for four batteries or not. Thoughts?

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[redarndt]

Ordered a new gas tank yesterday. It took some time to find a tank that would properly fit in the space below the deck.

I took out the storage areas that have access to the bilge in the back of the boat. The wiring was a nasty mess. I'll be rewiring the boat after I move the batteries. I have 4 batteries now. Two are for the trolling motor. One is dedicated to electronics and lighting. The fourth will be dedicated to starting and emergency systems like the bilge pump.

I'm debating whether to move the batteries up by the console on the starboard side like seen in the pictures. Each battery system will have a disconnect and be routed beneath the deck in conduit. Thoughts?

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[redarndt]

Day 3, 4, and 5....

Started removing some foam. It's been a slow process! I also removed the gas tank. Bought a replacement. Went to 25 gallon. The old tank was a 27 gallon but it was caved in so far it was probably really like a 25 gallon. It caved in enough to throw off the sending unit. This new tank was less than $250 shipped to my door and included the sending unit.
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I was surprised to see that Lund reinforced the underside of the floor where the seat bases are.
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WATERLOGGED FOAM!
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Siphoning gas out if the old tank
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Crud that fell in the old tank. Filter it and stick in my car gas tank?
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Tank is gone! Now I really need to spend some serious time on the rest of the water logged foam...
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[Watermann]

Nice Lund you have there and you're making some good progress so far :thumb:

Even the famous Lund used ferrous metal fasteners in the construction of their boats. All to save a few pennies.

 

[redarndt]

Nice Lund you have there and you're making some good progress so far :thumb:

Even the famous Lund used ferrous metal fasteners in the construction of their boats. All to save a few pennies.

Thank you. I plan to post a lot of pictures even if they seem insignificant. I've searched high and low for pictures of a Pro V rebuild but have had little success. Trying to help the next guy!


Not sure what you mean by "ferrous metal fasteners"?

 

[Watermann]

Day 2 took me about 3 hours just to remove the bow pieces. A combination of rusted bolts and removing the hatches, wiring, etc took way longer than expected.

Rusted bolts are ferrous metal fasteners, sorry I just like that word ferrous for some reason :lol:

 

[jbcurt00]

Yep ^^^ ferrous instead of stainless steel or aluminum

 

[redarndt]

Day 6 involved removing foam. Stupid water logged foam. One trash bag I pulled out must weigh 40 lbs.

Bow foam gone.
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Half of the deck foam is now gone too.
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[Watermann]

A slow process for sure but steady forward progress is key. Guys have used all kind of hand tools to dig out that soggy foam, you using a shovel or hand trowel?

 

[redarndt]

A slow process for sure but steady forward progress is key. Guys have used all kind of hand tools to dig out that soggy foam, you using a shovel or hand trowel?

I'm using a flat wrecking bar and a shovel.

 

[bonz_d]

Have you decided which type of foam you're going to put back into it?

 

[redarndt]

Have you decided which type of foam you're going to put back into it?

After going through the hell of removing the pour in foam, I've decided to go with sheet foam.

 

[Watermann]

After going through the hell of removing the pour in foam, I've decided to go with sheet foam.

A very good idea! If you take your time cutting and fitting, that sheet foam can be just as good or better. Here's a pic of how I was able to lay the foam in my SN so it added to the deck support.

 

[redarndt]

A very good idea! If you take your time cutting and fitting, that sheet foam can be just as good or better. Here's a pic of how I was able to lay the foam in my SN so it added to the deck support.

Wow. That looks great. Love the frosty mug of beer too!