Reducing hitch weight

[Jerry_NJ]

I purchased a used 14' boat and trailer. It has a 9.9 HP Yamaha outboard on the back (circa 1995) and has decking and other heavy items inside. The boat is an aluminum and made by Discovery (an offshoot of Grumman I believe - Discovery has been out of business for several years at this point). The boat is a V hull, and rigged in a "Bass Boat" configuration with decking/carpeting and pedestal seats. The boat is very similar to a 14' Grumman Profisherman I have owned since about 1986.. and which was badly damaged by the storm that hit NJ last October.

The old Gruman has a hitch weight that I can handle manually to swing it around and up on my yard tractor or my truck for moving/towing. The Discovery is basically too heavy at the hitch for my old back to handle. I'll guess it is a bit over 100 pounds, I'd like to reduce it to about 60 pounds at least when being moved around my property - the heavier weight is fine when connected to my Chevy Colorado Pickup which as a 2" receiver hitch set up.

I assume putting more weight in the stern will lower the hitch weight. Meassuring I find the stern, from which the Yamaha hangs, is about 3' behind the trailer wheels. The boat thus has about 11' of its length and associated weight ahead of the wheels/axle of the trailer. Of course the trailer itself has another 4 or 5 feet of sticking out in front of the bow to provided for connecting to the trailer hitch. Still, the weights I am working against in lifting the hitch end is the weight of the boat and contents distributed fore and aft of the trailer axle (a single axle).

I know the simple mechanics of a lever and realize that for my trailer weight I put at the stern, let's just say at 3' behind the axle will change the force at the front of the boat to offset by the ratio of 3 divided by 11 + tong or approximate 3/15. or 1:5. I believe this says to reduce the tong/hitch weight by 40 pounds I have to add 5 times that amount behind the axle, or 200 pounds. Sound about right?

I have teo smaller deep cycle batteries, each weights about 40 pounds so if I put those two batteries as close as I can to the stern and find anoter 100 pounds to put back there I should see/feel a 40 lighter load when man handling the tong of the trailer, right?

Am I missing something here, or is there another approach that is simpler and easier?

When moving the boart around on the property I like to use my Garden Tractor and its hitch is so low I have to rotate the hitch jack to bet the trailer hitch on to the ball. This is a chore in itself, and with a hitch weight in the neighborhood of 100 pounds it is getting to be too much. Maybe I'm getting too old for this stuff anyway.

 

[Lurch77]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

Another option is to shift the entire boat rearward on the trailer when just wheeling it around the yard. This may be a chore in itself though.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

get a trailer dolly

 

[Lone Duck]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

Move the axle ahead.

 

[UncleWillie]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

Another option is to shift the entire boat rearward on the trailer when just wheeling it around the yard. This may be a chore in itself though.

Not so much of a chore.
The boat weights a few hundred pounds but less than 1000.
To move the boat back a foot; let out 1 foot of slack at the winch strap while still attached to the truck.
Back up briskly and tap the brakes firmly.

Start easy, a little experimentation will find the technique to get the boat to slide back a bit.
The winch strap will prevent the boat from going too far.

Be careful as you unhitch the ball for the first time.
If you over do it, the trailer will "Do A Wheelie".
A jack stand or blocks under the rear may be in order until you know how far is too far.
If you over do it, just winch it forward until you find the sweet spot.

Be sure to winch it up to the bow stop and attach the transom straps before hitting the road again.

 

[saumon]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

Three methods come to mind:
1) best but not always practical: moving the axle forward or the boat/winch post/bunks rearward
2) not so good: adding weight to the stern. This will decrease tongue weight but will also increase overall weight so moving it around will be harder.
3) easiest: extending your trailer tongue, by adding a folding tongue kit or simply welding. By extending your "lever" by 3 ft, tongue weight will be less (and backing up will be easier).

 

[JB]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

10% of the weight of the rig should be on the tongue, Jerry. To correctly rig your trailer:

1. Position the boat so that the transom is supported by the rearmost bunks or rollers.

2. Position the winch stand so that the bow of the boat contacts the bow stop.

3. Position the axle cradle so that 10% of the weight of the rig, as ready to tow, is on the tongue.

Your rig sounds like a lot less than 1,000# so the correct tongue weight should be less than 100#. If it is still too heavy for you (I sympathize, my Doc forbids me to lift over 20#) take Smoky's advice and get a trailer dolly.

Your trailer will track and ride best when correctly rigged.

 

[roscoe]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

100% what JB said.
Confirm boat position on trailer.
Move axle forward to achieve correct tongue weight.

You should be able to do this with a jack or two, and a couple wrenches.
Cost, $0.

Moving weight aft in the boat, will adversely effect the way it sits in the water and operates at speed.

You can calculate how far to move the axle, or you can just do the trial and error method.
Start by moving it a foot and see what you get.



Found this in another post.
Yes I can fill you in.Discovery was acompany in Preble,NY started by ex employees of Gruman Boat Works of Marathon,NY.They began with the voyager fishing boats then moved up to center consoles,bowriders(which were every bit as good in quality as Lund)and pontoon boats.They tried to grow too quick and ended up in bankruptcy.Excellent well made boats.They were bought out by Misty Harbor Marine which bought out all their dies and still makes the Voyager line.

 

[Jerry_NJ]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

Thanks to all, lots of good stuff - moving the axle sounds like the most dramatic - I have a Shorelander trailer - is there some way to move the axle without welding : ( ? My goal was just to make a temporary weight shift for handling/moving on my property with the Garden Tractor. I would remove the "change" before towing to the lakes. That said, I never tow more than 40 miles and usually under 10 miles at 55 mph or less.

I was able to put the boat on my truck hitch when I picked up the boat and able to lift it off when I parked it. So, I can lift the tong and that means it must be no more than 100 pounds. Yesterday I went out with my tractor and used a floor jack to lower the trailer unto the garden tractor's ball - it looked overloaded and too low. The low part is a different problem. I decided if I want to move the boat with the Garden Tractor I must reduce the weight on the hitch - and will return the weight to the normal amount when towing. The truck hitch is high enough that I can raise and lower the trailer on to the truck ball with the trailer jack.

Yes on the history I didn't remember the details but the start up and failure of the Discovery company was told to me. I have the Discovery Voyager (I can go out and check) but that sound right, it is set up as a tiller steer outboard and has nice flooring at two levels with some storage, bilge pump, and live-well. It is in very good condition - I think, I have not yet put it in water.

In some respects I like the Discovery over the Grumman I have (damaged) because the Discovery is a long shaft boat and has a higher stern, maybe more free board all around...looks a little more storm worthy - not that I plan on boating in any storms. I have had to make a couple of runs in the past when a sudden wind storm came up and it was scary even when I had nor more than a mile to go to get to a shore - forget the boat launch these were cases of get to any shore you can beach the boat on.

NJ introduced a boating safety requirement a few years back, requires a course and test and fees. Before that one could get a boat license addition to the driver license for a couple dollars, on more. I had been boating anyway, but think I will get legal before launching my "new" boat this year. That's my other to-do item.

 

[JB]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

Your axle and springs should be mounted to a cradle, which in turn is bolted to the trailer frame. Moving it is not a big deal if you have a floor jack. I don't think I ever saw a Shorelander that didn't have this arrangement.

From what you tell us, I really think your trailer is incorrectly rigged for good towing behavior. If this is true you need to fix it before looking for ways to more conveniently move it about at home.

Get the ready-to-launch weight of your trailer, then use a bathroom scale to measure actual weight on the tongue (not at the jack, at the hitch).

Tell us what you find and if you need some help we are here for you.

 

[Mi duckdown]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

Jerry. Good Pics of your current set up would help alot.

 

[roscoe]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

On the smaller Shoreland'r trailers, the axle may not be adjustable.
The axle/spring carrier is held in place by 2 bolts, through the frame.



This is from the Shoreland'r manual for a 1200# trailer: page 3

http://www.midwestindustries.com/documents/manuals/SL Trailer Owners Guide.pdf


To adjust for too little tongue weight, the axle(s) must be moved
backward on the trailer allowing more weight to be carried on the
tongue. On most ShoreLand’r models, this can be accomplished
by loosening the U-bolts that fasten the axle to the trailer frame.
Adjust until the tongue weight falls within the recommended 5% to
7% range. One inch of movement equals approximately 10-15 lbs.
of tongue weight.

LOAD-CARRYING CAPACITY
PROPER WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION & TONGUE WEIGHT NOTE:

Some smaller trailers do not have an adjustable axle. On
these units either the boat or the gear inside must be moved forward
or backward to achieve proper tongue weight.

If only a slight weight adjustment is required, it is possible to move
the gear inside the boat to compensate the difference.

With smaller boats from 1000 pounds and down it may be necessary
to go as high as 10%. The goal is to have tongue weight that
allows for smooth, safe towing.

So, if you can't actually move weight aft, consider adding weight.
How about hanging 2 or 3 five gallon buckets of water on the outside of the transom?
Place a bucket hanger on the transom and lift the 40# bucket of water into place.

Amazon.com: Bucket and Tack Hanger 8In: Pet Supplies

 

[Bondo]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

Yesterday I went out with my tractor and used a floor jack to lower the trailer unto the garden tractor's ball - it looked overloaded and too low. The low part is a different problem. I decided if I want to move the boat with the Garden Tractor I must reduce the weight on the hitch - and will return the weight to the normal amount when towing.

Ayuh,... Sounds like it'd be Alot easier to fab up a hitch Extension for the Tractor,....

Make it the height of the pickup hitch...

 

[roscoe]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

If he was a fab up welder kind of guy, he probably wouldn't be here asking.

I don't weld, and hate paying someone to do it for me, that means I'd have to know what I wanted before they started welding.

 

[Lurch77]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

I think the bucket hangers and water sounds like the simplest (and cheapest) solution to his around-the-house issues.

 

[Cannondale]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

So, if you can't actually move weight aft, consider adding weight.
How about hanging 2 or 3 five gallon buckets of water on the outside of the transom?
Place a bucket hanger on the transom and lift the 40# bucket of water into place.

Amazon.com: Bucket and Tack Hanger 8In: Pet Supplies

I like that bucket hanger trick for adding weight quickly, but being lazy, would fill the bucket with water after I'd hung it in place. Easier to let water pressure lift the water into the bucket instead of my back. Would dump most of it while hanging, too.

 

[Bondo]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

If he was a fab up welder kind of guy, he probably wouldn't be here asking.

I don't weld, and hate paying someone to do it for me, that means I'd have to know what I wanted before they started welding.

Ayuh,.... I hear ya Roscoe,....

But remember, lesser humans can do pretty much the same things with a drill, 'n nuts, 'n bolts,....

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

Ayuh,.... I hear ya Roscoe,....

But remember, lesser humans can do pretty much the same things with a drill, 'n nuts, 'n bolts,....

OR a credit card and a home computer..... very well MIGHT be a hitch available on the WWW that would fit his mower...


Honestly none of this weight talk will help the trailer fit the mower and if 100 lbs is too much for it then it has no business pulling ANYTHING......

It looks to me like the real issue is that he can't use the jack to couple them because it won't go low enough.... a different non swinging jack might solve the whole issue but if it were me I'd either use a trailer dolly as I said above or work up a better hitch for the mower.... heck even a wood block is a viable option for constructing a hitch for use at 1 mph in a back yard moving a small tinny

 

[roscoe]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

I like that bucket hanger trick for adding weight quickly, but being lazy, would fill the bucket with water after I'd hung it in place. Easier to let water pressure lift the water into the bucket instead of my back. Would dump most of it while hanging, too.

Oh you young folks with your modern ideas !!

 

[Cannondale]

Re: Reducing hitch weight

Oh you young folks with your modern ideas !!

Yeppers....60 years young and l a z y!

When I was in nursing school decades ago, I was anointed as the one who could always find the "easy way" to do things. My thinking is why work harder than you have to to accomplish the same task?