Replacing 1990 Johnson 200 Water Tube

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rapishorrid

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You're right - rigidity might be an issue when re-installing the lower end. If the bottom pipe catches before it's fully seated in the water pump it'll bunch up the hose. How did you get around this when you converted to a short shaft?
 

oldboat1

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The copper tube ends butted up against each other in the hose, so pretty rigid -- and I think I probably clamped it at the joint. In retrospect, think I would clamp it on the joint (clamp serves as a sheath and adds rigidity). And for added rigidity, you can always clamp up a dowel of some kind along the repair -- bolt, maybe, something like that. And no point in using too short a piece of hose for the patch -- think I used a two or three inch piece. (Edit. On that hard to reach upper end on yours, think I would extend the hose up there two or three inches to make sure it's secured -- probably don't need a clamp up on there on that end.)

Probably doesn't show up in any manuals, but think it might save the hassle of taking off the powerhead.
 
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Faztbullet

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Sharkbite will work for a little while till O-rings and plastic clip melts
 

oldboat1

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Easy to use, for sure. Not sure how much room there is for the connector, or how well it would hold up in there. (plastic clip probably wouldn't be needed with copper tubing).
 

oldboat1

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Trying to visualize how a rubber hose patch would work. Say you could slip it onto the stub up in the leg and clamp it there, then attach another copper pipe to the other end of the rubber hose where it goes into the pump. I would think the rubber would be flexible and the assembly would blow apart under pressure.

hey interalian -- didn't mean to blow past your point. I'm thinking the pressure just isn't that significant -- water hoses used in various motors for routing, so would be similar to that. And actually, less susceptible to pressure because the copper tubing is butted up inside the hose, and contains the pressure. (IMO)

Break appears to be up in a tough spot.
 

rapishorrid

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I think sharkbite is out of the question because the break is at a curve in the pipe. Sharkbite needs about an inch of straight clean pipe on both pieces.

I like the idea of the pipes butted up against each other with the hose acting as a sharkbite. Don't cut either pipe, get a few inches of hose covering both ends and clamp down on where they meet.
 

rapishorrid

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After playing around with some tools in the midsection cavity to see what I could fit, it seems unlikely that I'll be able to get a clamp on the upper pipe or even on the joint itself. I'll grab some hose tomorrow, throw it on with at least a clamp on the bottom section and see how it goes.
 

rapishorrid

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I rigged it all up today, fired it up on muffs and everything worked great: 20 psi water pressure with a strong tell-tale (compared to 2 psi and just a dribble before). I was only able to put clamps on the bottom piece of pipe due to the tight space, but it looks like leakage through the upper end of the hose is minor if any.
 

sutor623

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I suggest you get an infrared thermometer and have someone point it at the heads during a wot run and see what kind of temps
You get. I would
DEFiNITELY install a water pressure gauge while you are running it like this.
 

rapishorrid

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I suggest you get an infrared thermometer and have someone point it at the heads during a wot run and see what kind of temps
You get. I would
DEFiNITELY install a water pressure gauge while you are running it like this.

I have a water pressure gauge (reads from the adapter plate). 2 psi at idle on muffs before the fix, 20 psi after. Will definitely be doing "sea trials" at WOT to check pressure and temps with an IR gun before I consider the fix usable. Nearly impossible for the hose to come off though - the only thing that could happen with more pressure/heat is leakage out of the top portion. Even if this happened I don't think it'd be enough to have a major impact.
 

sutor623

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Cool man, well congrats on saving yourself a TON of work. Let us know how it does on the sea trial.

Only concern we all had was the exhaust heat that builds up in that chamber. Wouldn't be a terrible idea to pull the gear case after 5-10 hours and see how that piece is holding up. But that is just me and my over concern for my engines.
 

oldboat1

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glad to hear the fix is working. If concerned about leakage, might try to get up there with a piece of wire and a needle nosed pliers (or vise grip), and twist on a clip -- like you would a twist tie. But chances are it will be fine.

sorry to see you have some other issues at the moment. Might be helpful to add some additional info in the new thread, if you continue to have a problem (salt water use, overheating episode -- maybe previous corrosion issues). Good luck running that down.

When BRP markets a "hose extension", we'll need to sue. (Actually, they would probably win a patent suit as OMC used a water pipe extension in the '60s, as I recall -- think it was just a tube extension that slipped over the existing one, but maybe there was more to it.)

Good boating to you.
 

rapishorrid

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glad to hear the fix is working. If concerned about leakage, might try to get up there with a piece of wire and a needle nosed pliers (or vise grip), and twist on a clip -- like you would a twist tie. But chances are it will be fine.

sorry to see you have some other issues at the moment. Might be helpful to add some additional info in the new thread, if you continue to have a problem (salt water use, overheating episode -- maybe previous corrosion issues). Good luck running that down.

When BRP markets a "hose extension", we'll need to sue. (Actually, they would probably win a patent suit as OMC used a water pipe extension in the '60s, as I recall -- think it was just a tube extension that slipped over the existing one, but maybe there was more to it.)

Good boating to you.

The issues keep coming with this motor - but I think I'll be able to get it in shape for one more season. On top of the electrical issue 3 of the 6 bolts holding the gear case on are in bad shape (1 broken, 2 stripped), so hopefully I can at least fix the 2 stripped ones with helicoil...

It'll all pay off when we sell the hose extension patent to BRC and become millionaires.
 
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