Running last week (barely) not starting today

[therewolf333]

Ran out on the bay pretty much just at idle because that's the limit, but this week it wont do more than sputter at turn over. Carb is dumping fuel out the front.
Cover says Super SeaHorse Electramatic 40 HP. Data plate is not on the motor mount, but the Welsh plug number is J27400035. UPDATED there was one too many zeros J2740035.
I tried Seloc, but the oldest manual they had was 1971. My guess is its a 64 to 65 Johnson.
Would someone please help shake the water from behind my ears?
The Seloc manual has a different carb and I think I can get it running if I can stop Niagra Falls at the carb.
By the way, it's scary to see the wiring harness is right below the carb so it gets bathed in 50:1 when this happens.

Thanks in advance for any help,

Larry

 

[therewolf333]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

Tried a spark tester on the plug and it lit when connected to the bottom plug and cranking, but didn't light on the top plug while cranking.

Odd thing, it would light when my wife let off the egnition key. The engine would then pop a couple times, but not start.

Pulled the plugs, cleaned the soot off and still the same results.

Suggestions would be much appreciated...I'll read the '71 service manual I have in the mean time and hope to happen across something.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

you are in the right year range, but i cannot trace those numbers. you gas problem is the carb float is stuck open. remove the bowl and free it up. the float itself may need to be replaced, as those got saturated eventually.

no spark on one probably a coil. post some pics with the cover on, and off from all sides, let's see if we can identify it.

you can up load to a free service like photobucket.com then you choose the pictures you want( clik the little box at the bottom left of the picture) scrool to the bottom of the page, clik generate html, it will take you to the next page, scroll down to thumb nails clik on that and copy, then insert it into your post.

also if you are planing on posting pictures, you can use the Blue post reply or the go advanced, manage attachments, there you can upload , directly from your computer. besure you pictures have been resized to fit the format.

 

[therewolf333]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

Here's the photos. Huge thanks for your time and efforts...

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

we are going to have to get some of the other guys in on this one. sending PM's/

 

[ezeke]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

I think that it is 1966 or 1967, but you have one too many digits in the serial number.

F_R apparently has a better list of serial numbers than I.

The carburetor float valve needle is probably sticking, or the float is saturated so the valve is open.

Carb rebuild should fix it.

Take a look at the BRP store listing for the 1968 RK 40HP Electric start models. http://shop.evinrude.com/

 

[Gary H NC]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

At least that carb is really easy to get to.You could about drop the float bowl and check the needle and seat without removing the carb.A rebuild would be the way to go.The kits are cheap..

 

[HighTrim]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

I agree with Ezeke, that serial number, going on the assumption that there is an extra 0 in there, falls at the end of 67 to beginning of 68.

Do you see the model numbers RDS-28, RDS-29, RK-28 or RK-29?

A side profile of the cowl will help if you have it.

 

[wbeaton]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

The colour suggests late 1960's. The cowl matches the era as well.

 

[ezeke]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

I think that you can use the Sierra kit 18-7024 for that carburetor. Iboats sells the kit: http://www.iboats.com/mall/partfind..._row=44&keywords=18-7024&**********=576078631

The kit does not include the float, should be part number 375792. You have to get that from a dealership.

The repair kit has the newer style needle and spring clip to connect the needle to the float so it will be less likely to stick.

 

[samo_ott]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

Has it been painted? that color pattern does not look familiar to me... but then my newest 40 of a Johnsons is an early 60's.

 

[Joe Reeves]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

The engine is a 1967 40hp Johnson Electramatic shift model.

Remove, clean thoroughly, and rebuild that carburetor with a complete carburetor kit. Anything less is a waste of time.

Remove the flywheel to check the points, coils ect and replace whatever is needed. Be sure to torque the flywheel nut to 105 foot pounds. Anything less will result in a sheared flywheel key along with damage to the flywheel and crankshaft tapers.

(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubber portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

(Magneto Armature Plate)
(J. Reeves)

If the armature plate has a a loose fitting, wobbling motion (the plate that the points, coils etc are attached to), it is usually caused by a slightly worn support ring. This allows the point setting to change erratically as the armature plate turns.

The cure is to remove the armature plate so that the support which is attached to the powerhead with 4 screws is visible. Then, with a screwdriver and hammer, or some tool of your choosing, and looking straight down at the support ring, make an indentation at what would be called the 12, 3, 6, and 9 O'clock positions. Install the armature plate and check for a smooth turning wobble free movement.

You may need to do that procedure a few times to obtain the proper fit (not too tight, not too loose), but it's worth the effort.

Use a small amount of anti corrosive grease between the aluminum ring and the brass support plate and also on the brass bushing of the armature plate when all is well.

 

[therewolf333]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

I agree with Ezeke, that serial number, going on the assumption that there is an extra 0 in there, falls at the end of 67 to beginning of 68.

Do you see the model numbers RDS-28, RDS-29, RK-28 or RK-29?

A side profile of the cowl will help if you have it.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

Joe Reeves is one of the most knowledgable men in this field. if he says it 99.9% it is right.

thanks, guys for responding to the PM's.

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

http://old-omc.de/j_1967/seite_11.jpg

 

[F_R]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

No point in fooling around. Your motor needs two things:

First, it obviously needs a carburetor repair. It is dumping gas because the float valve is not holding. Get an OEM repair kit from a Johnson or Evinrude dealer and fix it. Getting the kit from a dealer will get you a new float and float valve along with all the new gaskets.

Secondly, you need to remove the flywheel to see what's wrong with the ignition. No point in trying to guess what it is, go in there and take a looksee.

It isn't that much extra work to remove the flywheel. It is possible to get the carb off without removing the flywheel but it is a WHOLE LOT easier if you remove the flywheel, then the starter and generator. Just unbolt the starter and generator and lay them aside--you don't have to undo the wires. I wouldn't even attempt it any other way.

 

[wavrider]

Re: Running last week (barely) not starting today

Good advice, time to get the tools out.