running trouble after a cooling off period.

[alldodge]

no sir. Where is the valve and how would one measure pressure? Also, why only after a great run on plane and after it starts cooling, then to be perfectly ok when cool again? That's the variable I do not understand.

The anti-siphon vale is on the tank and is the barbed fitting that your fuel line connects to. I did say replace but need to check it to see if it is hanging. The valve is a check vale, has a spring and ball in side it, so if you fuel line springs a leak it will not allow all the fuel in the tank to siphon into the bilge. If the ball gets crude on it (you been having trouble with crud in the tank) then the ball can hang closed/open or cause a restriction.

To measure fuel pressure get a $20 vacuum fuel pressure gauge and put a tee fitting inline between pump and carb. You should have 4 to 7 psi at idle and should not fall below that during higher rpm.

As to why your symptoms keep changing, hot, cold, fast then slow, don't know exactly yet. I will say that if you have crud floating around it can cause the engine to run poorly one time and a little later that crud gets passed and start running good again

http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-93547.html
http://www.iboats.com/Moeller-Aluminum-Anti-Siphon-Valve/dm/view_id.392106

 

[Volphin]

I'd pull the plugs and look for a few being steam cleaned. At the very least, it may indicate the current mixture situation.

 

[Rick Stephens]

A little off the wall, but what about an intake leak? You mentioned needing to pump the carb to get running and generally everything seems very lean. You might take some carb cleaner and test it when it is hard to start. A leak can be very temperature related.

 

[redneck joe]

The anti-siphon vale is on the tank and is the barbed fitting that your fuel line connects to. I did say replace but need to check it to see if it is hanging. The valve is a check vale, has a spring and ball in side it, so if you fuel line springs a leak it will not allow all the fuel in the tank to siphon into the bilge. If the ball gets crude on it (you been having trouble with crud in the tank) then the ball can hang closed/open or cause a restriction.

To measure fuel pressure get a $20 vacuum fuel pressure gauge and put a tee fitting inline between pump and carb. You should have 4 to 7 psi at idle and should not fall below that during higher rpm.

As to why your symptoms keep changing, hot, cold, fast then slow, don't know exactly yet. I will say that if you have crud floating around it can cause the engine to run poorly one time and a little later that crud gets passed and start running good again

http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pump-and-vacuum-tester-93547.html
http://www.iboats.com/Moeller-Aluminum-Anti-Siphon-Valve/dm/view_id.392106

The crud was an issue in the first couple tanks, three seasons ago. Boat sat for three years with an empty tank when i bought it. This just started happening this year and since consistently happens when cooling off, I'm going to postulate no on the crud side of it. Plus the tanks is a bear to get too...

I did get the mechanic to meet me at the ramp when I came in. When he took it out for a lake test (two trips to the shop ago) he apparently didn't wait long enough for it to have the issue cooling off. This time I got him on the boat and he played with it so at least (now) he knows. I'm waiting on a call fomr him to see what he's checked thus far.

oh BTW mechanical fuel pump.

 

[Bondo]

(tach not functioning).

Ayuh,..... A couple things,.... Why ain't ya fixed the tach,..?? it's probably one of the most important gauges on the dash,.....
Is the tach still hooked up,..??
If it's AFU, 'n still hooked to the coil's (-) terminal, maybe it's groundin' out, killin' or stumblin' the ignition,...

'n the in-line filter, ahead of the canister filter is just 2 more places for a leak, that's the vacuum side, maybe it's suckin' air,.....
The canister is all the filter ya need, just keep it changed,....

195? is pretty darn High,..... When was the impeller last changed,..??

Eric, 'n Volpin bring up good points,....
If the tank was fulla Crap, I'd be lookin' in the carb, to see how it survived the Crap,.....
'n pullin' the plugs will tell ya if there's a water leak in the exhaust,.....
The color of the plugs can be a valuable diagnostic tool,....

 

[redneck joe]

Love the new sig pic. Ive always chuckled to the line now a pic speaks, well you know.



Tach work out of gear not in. Low on my list im pretty tuned to engine noise i drive 60k per year in the truck, always listening but yeah should get on it.



Im still pretty sure not carb due to it being a couple year old issue but will but on the list. Didnt think about a leak at inline ive only got four compression clamps on it ill add some industrial zips to make sure. I added it due to the crud and the fact i got 10 free ones as opposed to 6 bucks each for the cannister.


Impeller done last winter and again this year to be sure plus new water pump. Temp guage i think off i couldn't shoot ir more than 180 when first got it back earlier in the season.


Plugs it is. Never heard that one.

 

[Bondo]

Tach work out of gear not in.

Ayuh,.... It oughta be a grey wire on the coil's (-),.... disconnect it,....

Love the new sig pic.

Erik, Southkogs made it for me, did a 'ell of a job, I love it,.....

 

[redneck joe]

well they rebuilt the carb. Ran great late yesterday afternoon for a few hour run on Tims Ford. Still taking on a bit of water, i'll wait until time to winterize to have them look at that (again)