Sealing windows and rubrail

[TBarCYa]

We took the 1971 Concorde out of the water yesterday and are starting to assess the things we need to tackle in the off-season. Sealing and waterproofing is around the top of the list so the questions begin. I'm sorry but I know that this must have been covered but searching came up with some very specific results and also some very vague results, none of which seemed to answer these specific questions...

Rubrail and windows. there currently appears to be a flexible sealant around the rubrail and windows that we will be replacing. Would it be acceptable to use silicone for this or is there something more appropriate? i was thinking 3m 4000UV but I'm not sure how it will work to seal a window unless the window is removed and reinstalled so maybe LifeCaulk would be a better solution?

Bolts. I'm planning to use 4200 for the cleats, anchor holder and everything else that is thru-bolted. When I remove the exhaust flanges to seal them, I plan to use 5200 on those since they're below the waterline (sometimes) and once sealed shouldn't have to be removed.

Now the big question... *IF* we decide to paint the boat rather than just compound/wax, would it be be best to remove all caulking then recaulk AFTER painting or apply the caulk to the bare gelcoat and paint after? Or doesn't it matter?

​Any help is appreciated.

 

[Woodonglass]

Lifecaulk and 3M 4200 are basically the same thing. I think you could use either with great results. I'd paint first and caulk last. What Paint will you be using? Is the Gelcoat so bad you can't buff it out??

 

[TBarCYa]

Haven't decided on paint yet... Nor have we decided that we're definitely painting. Pressure washing made the finish look pretty good so a compound and wax may be all we need but we haven't tried it yet.

We'll probably give it a good pressure washing then run the buffer over a couple places to see how it comes up before deciding on paint. It's getting cold in the northeast tho so we have some time until we'll be able to paint anyway.

 

[Woodonglass]

I'd Highly recommend compounding it with a VS Polisher with a fine grit compound @ about 1000 to 1500 rpm and take it slow and easy so as to not build up to much heat. 2 sq ft at a time is optimum. Then follow up with some 3M Finnesse Polish. I'll bet you can get it to shine up real nice if it's not oxidized to bad.

 

[TBarCYa]

I'm definitely going to give the polisher a try. the boat is 43 years old and other than the last 6 months, I have no idea how it's been treated. I'm hoping it comes out good with the polisher because I hate painting.

 

[Woodonglass]

If it does come down to painting, I can help you with that as well. It can be easier than you think and not that bad on the pocket book either. Paint Your Boat with Tractor Paint