Self Bailing

Keepi time

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
103
I have a 1989 Seaswirl 172 CC. It has two drains that drain into the bildge. I was wondering if it would be possoble to add scuppers just in case it rained too much. I could put the float switch on the bildge pump, but worry about it running the battery down. Should I just get another battery just for the bildge and house electronics? Need some guidance guys.

THanks!
 

Home Cookin'

Fleet Admiral
Joined
May 26, 2009
Messages
9,715
Re: Self Bailing

on a 17' boat you don't need 2 batteries, especially if you keep it on a trailer.

With floor drains you really have to have a float switch. it will not run down the battery.

They are set (or should be set up) to let a couple inches accumulate, then they kick on, and stay on until the boat is about dry. They will also kick on when you accelerate to get the rest of the water out, so mount as close to the transom as you can.

I would not drill holes in the back for self-bailing; I think if it were feasible the boat would be made that way. You probably don't have enough clearance and in fact your deck may be below the waterline to begin with. Level scuppers don't drain a sitting boat very quickly and could be overwhelmed by a big rain or waves over the stern.

I have a 1988 17' Key West DC with the floor drain, too. 1 battery, float switch, left the boat in the water for years no problem, but it was at the house so we could keep an eye on it. Over the years, we had a pump fail and a battery go down (short) and even though we had heavy rain and water above the drain, we pumped it out no problem.

If you leave the boat in the water, get a battery switch so you can cut off all power except the float switch, which will be wired direct.

Suggest you buy a hand pump; you can take the cover off the floor drain and stick it in the bilge for emergencies/equipment failure.
 

SolingSailor

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Dec 24, 2009
Messages
197
Re: Self Bailing

I don't know your boat, so this is only general advice. If the sole is above the waterline, yes, you could install hoses and lead them out of the boat, above or below the water, depending on how far above the water the sole is. However, it really takes a lot of rain to sink a boat, and extra holes in a boat is never a good thing. I think I would go with the bilge pump, and maybe a cover to divert rainwater. I would tend to trust the designers on this issue, and leave it alone.

It just occurred that I live in California, and maybe you're thinking about hurricane-type rain in NC. If so, please disregard.
 

Chris1956

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
28,129
Re: Self Bailing

Self bailing boats need to have two major features. First the deck must be above the waterline or the deck will not drain. Secondly the deck nees to be waterproof with no way for water to get into the bilge. Some boats are partially self bailing, BTW. These have most of the deck waterproof, but not all.
 

Home Cookin'

Fleet Admiral
Joined
May 26, 2009
Messages
9,715
Re: Self Bailing

good point, Chris; he would have to seal the deck drains for it to work. Scary.
 

Keepi time

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 12, 2011
Messages
103
Re: Self Bailing

Thanks guys! I think I will go with the second battery (deep cycle) for the radio and bildge pump and turn my switch to that battery when it's left in the water. I never leave it for long unattended so I can always keep my eye on it just in case. I wanted a second battery just in case. May be a little overkill, but would like the peace of mind in case I would ever need it. Thanks again guys.
 

seabob4

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 10, 2008
Messages
1,603
Re: Self Bailing

kt,
If you're not sure how to wire in the float so that you can turn on the pump manually at the helm as well as enable the float to turn on the pump, here's my diagram...
BilgeFloat2.jpg


Seeing as you are going to have a batt switch, run the float to batt 2 on the switch, but remember to fuse it as described...
 
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