Separated Chrysler Outboard, now gear shift isn't correct. HELP! :)

WoodenBoat75

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Joined
May 4, 2014
Messages
2
Hi there (experts?) :)

This is my first post here, so go easy on me, lol.

While I've wrenched on many a Jeep and motorcycle motor, outboards are fairly new to me. A family member recently acquired a 20-something foot sailboat from the 1970's with a 6hp outboard that the previous owner said was original to the boat.

The outboard says Chrysler Sailor on it and there's a large 6 at one end. I assume this means it's a 6hp motor. It's a small motor with 2 cylinders and I'd be impressed if it was much more than 6hp. The patina, fiberglass housing, design, etc appear to be mid 70's - which would match the boat's age and previous owner's statements.

The situation: Being the only one with a truck in the family, I had the honor of picking the boat up from a marina 3 hours away! I wasn't paying much attention to what was going on as it wasn't becoming my boat, but my brother tells me the previous owner DC'd the fuel line and ran the motor until it died (standard procedure to empty the carb of fuel). However, he said he did this after I had pulled the boat from the lake! (Doh!) Like I said, I wasn't paying attention. It was raining, so I sat in the truck and read a book. Anyway, the motor wouldn't start, so I immediately thought perhaps the carb was gummed up even though the fuel had been burned out of it. Later, my brother would confirm that prior to this previous winter, someone had started the motor at the boat's new dock and admitted to not running the carb dry. So, I figured old gas had turned to varnish and gummed up jets and other aspects of the carb. Stripped the carb down, cleaned it out, installed new gaskets, re-mounted it and voila! it works. The motor runs great - except that I didn't see much water coming from the tell-tail exit ports. It was more of a dribble. Then, I recalled the previous owner had ran the motor until it died to get the fuel out of the carb with the motor out of the water and figured the impeller was shot.


I removed the gear case from the top section (4 bolts), the 2 halves separated by an inch or so, but were held together by the shifting rods. I removed the allen wrench screw holding them together and the two halves came apart.

Once apart, I removed the 4 bolts holding the water pump body in place - one of which, the head twisted off and it took some thread penetrating spray, heating the casing with a blow torch and cooling the bolt stud with ice to get it out. Once off, the impeller actually looked impressive. I was expecting to see a melted mess, but it was obviously replaced within a few years and did not succumb to over heating as I thought it might have.

My current two issues for which I need some advice: When I mounted the two outboard halves back together - connecting the shifting rods with the same screw and everything just how it was, I noticed something - the shift lever is off. Before I took it apart, neutral was neutral, reverse was reverse, forward was forward. Now the prop spins in neutral and reverse, and the shift lever won't move to the forward position. :-/ ...obviously something happened while the two halves were apart, or I didn't do something right when I put them back together. I noticed the prop spun as I slowly pulled the rope while in neutral, so I didn't try and start it. Obviously the prop spinning in neutral isn't helpful and only having one direction available doesn't help much either.

My other issue, when the motor was running before I split the two halves to inspect the impeller, the tell-tale exit ports pretty much just dribbled water. While the outboard was split, I connected a small hose to the intake water tube (beneath the engine on the upper half) that seats inside the water pump housing and turned on the water. Within seconds, it exited the tell-tale ports clear and without debris. I suspect that from the impeller up, there is no cooling system blockage or issue. I didn't try and force water in the bottom section inlets as I ran out of time, but I'll look into that next time I'm able to work on the motor. To test the motor the day I remounted the carb, I had the intake inlets connected to a garden hose via that suction-cup looking clamp thing that covers both sides of the inlets and had the water on enough that it was leaking out around the suction cup things. When I separated the gear case from the motor, there was definitely water in the cooling system. I'm just not sure why the pressure would seemingly be so low (dribbles from the tell-tale ports).

My number one priority is to fix the gear linkage. Any advice as to what happened and how to fix it would be greatly appreciated. Any ideas about the possible cooling system issue would be "cool" too.

Thanks! :)

If anyone needs more info, or pictures, let me know and I'll see what I can do. Like I said, outboards are new to me, but I'm pretty mechanically inclined, so I understand how things work pretty well and have no issues taking things apart and putting them back together (unless 30+ years of corrosion gets in the way).
 
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MickLovin

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 18, 2013
Messages
822
Re: Separated Chrysler Outboard, now gear shift isn't correct. HELP! :)

First off I own a 6hp, but mine is a pull throttle not tiller, but they do only dribble out water at idle, and if you have tried to rev it up a bit faster it should be a lot more coming up, I find it better to put these little motors in a large tub of water, you can tune them better for a start with the back pressure of a large tank which you don't get from muffs.

I don't have a manual and I am thinking your gear linkage is a bit different than mine, but here goes, undo your lower unit, find your neutral position by manually pull pushing the shaft, when you find neutral install the lu making sure the gear shift is in neutral. If you find your prop spinning, it may be spinning but easily stopped, if it still tries to spin after trying to stop it, it is still in gear, Sorry I am unsure if there is a procedure for this, Frank Acampora or others may have more of an idea. My LU is the same and has a flat bladed screw which will undo and you drop the LU. Did you move the lever when doing the LU dismount? I too need to buy a manual for this motor :facepalm:
 

MickLovin

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 18, 2013
Messages
822
Re: Separated Chrysler Outboard, now gear shift isn't correct. HELP! :)

Even if the impeller looks ok, if I drop a LU I put a new impeller in, which hopefully is only once a year. But I do salt-water not fresh and I think it makes a difference to them, but I also flush every time.
 

MickLovin

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Feb 18, 2013
Messages
822
Re: Separated Chrysler Outboard, now gear shift isn't correct. HELP! :)

Sorry meant to say an expert is water under pressure :eek:
 

WoodenBoat75

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Joined
May 4, 2014
Messages
2
Re: Separated Chrysler Outboard, now gear shift isn't correct. HELP! :)

Thanks Mick

Went to go do that and noticed the bearing cage was lose. On further inspection, it turns out the threads are stripped on the lower gear case :(

Have a replacement coming. In the meantime, what I can't figure out is which way the gear shift arm is supposed to go when the lower shift rod threads into it. Does the box with the threads go up, or down? Is there a picture somewhere of how this is reassembled? :)

outboard shifter.jpg
 

Frank Acampora

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
12,004
Re: Separated Chrysler Outboard, now gear shift isn't correct. HELP! :)

Never worked on a 6 HP lower unit but the linkage you show is the same for all the bigger engines (20-150). You install the steel yoke on the pivot pin with the Fingers toward the front of the case. and the threaded block horizontal to and above the prop shaft. The brass yoke fits in a groove in the shift shaft and the two "ears" fit in the slots of the steel yoke. Retain it with grease while installing the prop shaft through the forward gear center hole.
 
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