Several Question about safety kill switches

[DanD34]

I have a 1988 3.0 with Alpha One Gen 1 outdrive. Originally had points ignition but previous owner replaced with pertronix unit. I'm thinking it would be a good thing to have a tethered kill switch (which can be had for about $12) or one of the new wireless switches (which run around $200!). I was reading about and someone mentioned that given that the choke spring heater is always running off the ignition wire that it my be too much current for the switch/wiring that comes with them to handle safely if wired in the normally closed configuration on the ignition circuit. So, I have a couple of questions. Does anyone see a problem with using the normally open configuration and hooking the wire from the kill switch to the sender wire for the tachometer? That's what the switch interrupt switch is wired to already so it should work exactly the same as the shift interrupt switch. Second, I can see how it would be convenient to have one of the wireless units. Has anyone used them? Are they worth the extra money as compared to being tethered to a regular switch? Third, the directions for the wireless units say you have to have a factory kill switch already installed on the boat. Why in the world would that be? Thanks in advance

 

[alldodge]

Forget the wireless kill switch

Kill switch on your motor is connected between the purple wire coming from the ignition key switch and going to the motor. When the kill switch opens up it removes power to the coil. This pic is showing how to bypass the switch, you just need to add one

 

[DanD34]

Ok. Thanks. My wiring diagram is older and doesn't show the newer remote control with the safety switch built into the remote control unit. Can see with purple wires going to it that they put the safety switch on that side of the circuit. The question remains however, is any universal safety switch ok to use? I saw one that had a rating of just 5 amps. The heater on the choke I think is almost 4 by itself. Perhaps I'm making a mountain out of a molehill but I don't want to cause a problem either. I found some different universal switches but they didn't list any ratings. Any good dependable ones? Does Quicksilver have a universal fit switch? Can't seem to find if they do.

 

[dingbat]

Second, I can see how it would be convenient to have one of the wireless units. Has anyone used them? Are they worth the extra money as compared to being tethered to a regular switch? Third, the directions for the wireless units say you have to have a factory kill switch already installed on the boat. Why in the world would that be? Thanks in advance

I have a wireless kill switch on my boat.

Use it when fishing by myself just in case I fall overboard tending rods on the transom.

Works as advertised.

The “head” unit is designed to be spliced into the existing kill switch circuitry.

They include instructions on wiring the head unit director to the motor as well

 

[QBhoy]

I may be wrong here, but most of me is telling me that an original Mercruiser 3.0 set up from even 1988 would likely have a kill switch lanyard type arrangement already in it. I’ve had a few merc and mercruiser boats from the late 80’s and all had remotes with a lanyard option.
you have a picture of your set up you could post ?

 

[DanD34]

Here's a picture of my boat. Dont think there's a safety switch option here.

 

[QBhoy]

Here's a picture of my boat. Dont think there's a safety switch option here.

Ok. You’re likely correct on that one. Don’t think that remote has one. I’ll be honest, I thought those remotes were finished being fitted to boats much earlier. Like maybe the last of them was 85/86.
I know the equivalent merc outboards of that era and remotes had kill switches on them.
I also know that the remotes before that, which had the trim buttons actually on the dash didn’t have a lanyard kill switch. But I honestly though an 88 would have a kill switch. My 88 and 90 mercruiser 4.3s both did.

 

[alldodge]

Ok. Any good dependable ones? Does Quicksilver have a universal fit switch? Can't seem to find if they do.

You do want one which can handle 20 amps. There are several out there and one of the Quicksilver number 87-13398, but could also get a sierra or other this is another type part number THMKS1DP

This is a seadog but I'm not able to find specs on it.

https://www.iboats.com/shop/seadog-universal-kill-switch-line.html

 

[DanD34]

You do want one which can handle 20 amps. There are several out there and one of the Quicksilver number 87-13398, but could also get a sierra or other this is another type part number THMKS1DP

This is a seadog but I'm not able to find specs on it.

https://www.iboats.com/shop/seadog-universal-kill-switch-line.html

Thanks. The Seadog one was one that I saw that was rated for only 5 amps. I also saw the ones from Sierra and that last one you listed too but never could find an amp rating. The Quicksilver one looks like it's made to go in the remote control unit. Can anyone verify if it can be installed in a dash by simply drilling a hole a putting and securing with a nut? Can't see the exact construction from pictures I saw online.