She's got some rot

[Swimforshore]

So I have a 1988 Hurricane deck boat that has been in the family for about 20 years with me being its primary care taker since Dad passed 10+ years ago. I've known the deck is getting soft for some time. I started some research into repair techniques which prompted further inspection. I found the stringers and bulkhead in the ski locker showing some rot especially at the top. Boat otherwise is in good shape so I want to fix it right. The rear of the boat was rebuilt to the back seat 12 years ago. So here are my initial question so.
1. Is it better to take the stringer down to the hull and replace the hole thing? Or just cut out the bad and tie in?
2. What is the likely hood the rot took over the engine compartment again? The rebuild their was done by reputable people, former hydrodyne boat builders.
3. Is the West system the way to go?

 

[Scott Danforth]

start by reading, specifically link 14, however links 3 and 4 as well

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat...r/295740-how-to-s-and-other-great-information

regarding stringers, the repair will be determined on the extent of the rot. however I found it best to remove the deck, measure everything, make a drawing, remove the rotten stringers, spend days grinding rebuild the stringers, new transom, bulkheads, etc. then glass everything in.

the west system is expensive, however epoxy does work. you just can not gel coat it. I like to stick with what the boat was made out of. if it was poly to begin with, I would continue with poly. if it was VE, would continue with VE, etc.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

My comments inline in blue

So I have a 1988 Hurricane deck boat that has been in the family for about 20 years with me being its primary care taker since Dad passed 10+ years ago. I've known the deck is getting soft for some time. I started some research into repair techniques which prompted further inspection. I found the stringers and bulkhead in the ski locker showing some rot especially at the top. Boat otherwise is in good shape so I want to fix it right. The rear of the boat was rebuilt to the back seat 12 years ago. So here are my initial question so.

1. Is it better to take the stringer down to the hull and replace the hole thing? Or just cut out the bad and tie in?

It depends on the extent of the damage and if it is contained in one area only. In my case, the rot was near the transom but the factory joints with the bulkheads were all rotted near the joint so it had to be a total replacement.

2. What is the likely hood the rot took over the engine compartment again? The rebuild their was done by reputable people, former hydrodyne boat builders.

Don't guess, take core samples and determine the extent of the rot then develop a game plan. Again, in my case, the game plan was very simple; if it is made out of wood, it will be replaced.

3. Is the West system the way to go?

Poly resin is what your boat made out off and poly will get the job done for sure. Vinyl Ester is what I personally use for fiberglass jobs that is not made out of epoxy. Epoxy will also do the job - more expensively - but it will work. In your application, you may gain very little by building with epoxy but it is your dime and your decision.

 

[Swimforshore]

I'm also looking into doing some hull repairs, I have some minor chips. From what I understand the color is gelcoat not paint? How do I match color? Any good repair threads for fixing these blemishes?

I have a few pictures but I'm having trouble getting then posted. I saw in another thread someone had link for posting pictures, but I can't seem to find it.

 

[gm280]

To post pictures you have a few options. I myself like to post direct from my computer using the picture link option in the right hand section of the posting box and not use a third party picture storage site. Others love doing that. So again it is your choice. If you decide to post direct from your computer, you have to keep the size so where the link will work. If your pictures are presently too large, then use a program like "paint" or any other picture editing program and resize them 'til they do link without issues. Usually around 100kb to 200kb or there about makes for a nice presentation with pretty nice clarity. But your choice. I just reset my camera for a lower resolution and now link without resizing them. Works really well. However, if you go with a third party picture option, a lot of boaters on here use photo bucket and copy the img link for their pictures that is on the right hand side of the picture in photo bucket and paste it in their comment. Then it is forever linked and that works well also. But you have to make sure you never move the picture in your photo bucket account or your linked pictures will disappear from you thread. JMHO

 

[Woodonglass]

I'm also looking into doing some hull repairs, I have some minor chips. From what I understand the color is gelcoat not paint? How do I match color? Any good repair threads for fixing these blemishes?

I have a few pictures but I'm having trouble getting then posted. I saw in another thread someone had link for posting pictures, but I can't seem to find it.

Sprojake, It would be best for you to start your own Thread about your boat repairs and not Hi-Jack this one.

 

[Swimforshore]

Sprojake, It would be best for you to start your own Thread about your boat repairs and not Hi-Jack this one.

Ummm I did start this thread. Should I start a new one for rotten wood and 1 for chips in the hull?

 

[Woodonglass]

Here AGAIN, I keep telling everyone I'm an Old Dumb Okie and this proves it!!! Sorry about that. Carry on and DON'T start any more threads Keep it here in one nice spot.:facepalm:

 

[Swimforshore]

No problem Woodonglass. I appreciate you looking out for the thread and my Mom and wife aren't on here to keep my inline (not an insult). I think it needs renamed 88 Hurricane restoration. Right now I'm in the planning and supply collection phase. I'm a ASE and Honda master tech but know little about boats. So I guess I should let everyone know my goals
1. Safe and reliable
2. Replace rotted stringers and deck
3. Verify previously repaired transom/engine compartment still in good shape
4. Restore hull finish and repair blemishes
5. Restore all electrical and gauges to working order
6. Make it pretty again

Right now I'm having trouble with assembling a parts list and where I should go to get it. Marine lumber is all over the place as well as glass products any advice or even better a list of required materials.

 

[Woodonglass]

Take a look at this... View attachment MaterialsList.pdf

 

[Swimforshore]

Thanks Woodonglass that's perfect. I'm not very knowledgable about wood. So there is marine grade plywood and then the others are grades of exterior? Is it correct some stringers are made of plywood and some from solid wood. Should I use what I take out or just use plywood?

 

[Woodonglass]

Ext. Grade plywood is my preference. Much stronger and more stable than lumber. Once it's encased in resin and glass it will last for decades. The factories are NOT noted for doing outstanding fiberglass work. You'll do MUCH better than they did.

 

[Corjen1]

Cool, Ive been hoping for one of these builds... cant wait to see some pix!!

 

[Swimforshore]

Cool, Ive been hoping for one of these builds... cant wait to see some pix!!

Stay tuned pix are coming when I get my computer up and running or back to the lake to take pictures that aren't so high resolution(blasted iphone6).

 

[Swimforshore]

Ok so I've been looking at some threads for poly resin. A lot of people have been buying the 435 poly from US composites. The 435 will cost me about $40/gallon after shipping. The Boat Yard poly resin will run a little less than $20/gal. Any opinions on what I should use for poly? that seems to be a major cost driver I'm figuring probably 25 gallons for a 20ft boat

 

[Woodonglass]

Nothing wrong with the Boatyard Resin as long as it has no wax in it.

 

[sheboyganjohn]

I was lucky and when I started the Sea Ray I stumbled into a good deal for ISO poly resin. I now use a GP resin I can get, shall we say regionally, that is about $20 a gallon. I would have used all GP resin if I did not get the ISO resin for such a good deal.

 

[Corjen1]

I use photobucket for my pix...very easy to use.

 

[DeepBlue2010]

Where in Indiana are you?! Which city?

 

[Swimforshore]

Where in Indiana are you?! Which city?

Fort Wayne. Do most boating at Salamonie